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Re-building my 1986 302/347 Bronco

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ReneH

Re-building my 1986 302/347 Bronco

So I will start with a to-do list:

1. Get the engine starting
2. Set and optimize the timing
3. Fix the tailpipe and maybe try to get the exhaust a little quieter
4. Repair the tail window and add a remote-control circuit
5. Add another remote-control circuit to the central locking system.
6. Replace the most of the sealing rubber (doors, windows, etc.)
7. Install a parking-heater (Not a hot-air-type...one of them that pre-heats the engine)
8. Install a secondary heat-changer in hight of and below the rear-seats with air-outlets in the back of the car
9. Install a 7" Android Radio including 360° cams
- At this time I plan to drive the car already -
10. Install a new center console
11. Install a radio clock together with an inside- and an outside temperature display
12. Coat all interior plastic parts with leatherette.
13. Replace all outside trims
14. Paint the whole car new in dual colors, choosen from the original available in 1986

So, also I have bought the car over a year ago now, some of you know, that I'm still at point one...

Regarding my center console, I have invented one by my own. including a dual subwoofer:

It will be made of MDF-boards and coatet with foam and leatherette.

So, that's my plan...we will see how much time it will take. Point 1-9 should be done in the next 4 month.
10 and 11 this year. 12 and 13 lately begining of next year. Point 14 isn't sooo important, but necessary...

René's Profile

Bronco 1986 Ford Bronco XLT 302/347 stroker with 351W EEC-IV and 351W factory cam C6 gearbox. Jeep 1986 Jeep CJ7 256 I6 with T5 gearbox. Buggy 1972 HAZ Buggy 122 Ford Cologne V6
Baron 1994 Chrysler LeBaron convertible 183 V6 4-speed automatic

ReneH

Re: Re-building my 1986 302/347 Bronco

This post was updated on .

The engine is running now. No more backfire, Ok...maybe sometimes slightly backfire...but it runs good so far.

So my first point is done.

About the 2nd point:
I will try to set the timing a bit lower and test what happens. I'm currently at 9-10 degrees. At 12 degrees the advance exceeds 40 degrees at 1,600 rpm. Now I'm at about 38 degrees at about 2,000 rpm.

4th point also 95 percent done.
I only have to find a fitting screw to replace the missing one that fixes the window motor.
As my control switch inside the car is corroded and also the key switch defect, I currently can only use my remote control to move the window up and down.

85lebaront2

Re: Re-building my 1986 302/347 Bronco

Administrator

On the window motor screws, they are probably 1/4-20 self-tapping.

Bill AKA "LOBO" Profile

"Getting old is inevitable, growing up is optional" Darth Vader 1986 F350 460 converted to MAF/SEFI, E4OD 12X3 1/2 rear brakes, traction loc 3:55 gear, 160 amp 3G alternator Wife's 2011 Flex Limited Daily Driver 2009 Flex Limited with factory tow package Project car 1986 Chrysler LeBaron convertible 2.2L Turbo II, modified A413

ReneH

Re: Re-building my 1986 302/347 Bronco

Hi Bill,

thanks for this. I have to look which of my metric screws will fit. Then I'll change all three to have them identical.

Now, as moving the window up and down some times, the motor has to do hard work. Sometimes I have to help it.

I already have put on new grease and also cleaned and greased the rails in which the plastic rectangle slides...I also have put silicon spray in the guide rails of the window...maybe the wiring is bad? Too much internal resistance? Or do you think a bad motor is more common?

85lebaront2

Re: Re-building my 1986 302/347 Bronco

Administrator

Rene', any of those are even all of them in some fashion could be a problem. If you go through the wiring manual, it shows where the connectors are located. After 36 years they may be corroded as the window switch in the dash is.

Bill AKA "LOBO" Profile

ReneH

Re: Re-building my 1986 302/347 Bronco

Hi Bill,

maybe I was going too early...I have done a test drive today...about 30 miles. Everything was fine...but after about 20 miles, on my way back home I hear a rattling sound. I also have the feeling that the engine shakes a bit when standing at a traffic light...I have done some videos:
No.1
No.2
No.3

I have had no feelable lack of power while driving.

I've checked the plugs...all tighten

I've checked the oil...very less amount of metal containing. Hereby I have to say that I have done an oil and filter change after breaking-in the cam. The following image shows what a magnet was collecting after dropping some oil into a container:

I'm not sure if my dipstick is reading correctly:

This is how my plugs looked after the drive:

I'm a bit afraid, cause the rattling sounds a bit metallic...in my opinion...

I hope there is nothing with the cam or the valves...I hope you can calm me a bit...

85lebaront2

Re: Re-building my 1986 302/347 Bronco

Administrator

Rene', first item, if those are the correct heat range plugs, you are very lean. That will give you backfiring in the intake under load. Second, noise sounds like a possible header gasket leak, look for carbon tracks around the ports.

Sounds pretty good though!

Bill

Bill AKA "LOBO" Profile

ReneH

Re: Re-building my 1986 302/347 Bronco

Hi Bill,

I use the original plugs: Motorcraft SP501...

header gasket leak???
Sounds not good...
I have fixed the head screws with the torque in the Haynes manual...

Sounds pretty good though!
what do you exactly mean? This rattling, knocking sounds...

Where should I look for carbon tracks? When unmounting the intake?

85lebaront2

Re: Re-building my 1986 302/347 Bronco

Administrator

Not head gasket, header, exhaust side of cylinder head. It will make a sound like a lifter ticking.

Bill

Bill AKA "LOBO" Profile

ReneH

Re: Re-building my 1986 302/347 Bronco

Hi Bill,

Ohhh...miss reading one letter made me very fearful...

Good thing. As I have done some checks yesterday, I haven't done these. But as my shortys have had some problems with fitting the screw holes and now after driving I have had much more vibrations, it's a possibility and one of the easier possible reasons to fix...

ReneH

Re: Re-building my 1986 302/347 Bronco

In reply to this post by 85lebaront2

Hey Bill,

I forgot to ask: Do you think a possible reason for the maybe lean run can be caused by a O2 sensor with too much carbon on it caused by the very rich run as having the vaccum leak in the MAP line before?

85lebaront2

Re: Re-building my 1986 302/347 Bronco

Administrator

It could, but if it wasn't working correctly you should be getting a check engine light if you put one in. the 1989 computer will activate it if installed.

Bill AKA "LOBO" Profile

ReneH

Re: Re-building my 1986 302/347 Bronco

Ok. I don't have one...I have a place for the "SHIFT" light that is not installed....buy this is another thing.

I have done a KOEO test without errors.
This evening I will check the exhaust mainfolds.

I my opinion the sound comes from the driver's side. And is not continuous...it seems that it stops sometimes.
If this is not only imagination, it can't be something with the valves, cam, lifters, etc...cause as far as I knows the sound has to be continuous in such a case...so that's what I hope for...

ReneH

Re: Re-building my 1986 302/347 Bronco

I have checked the exhaust mainfold screws...all are only hand tight...I've tighten them with 30 ft lbs, but nothing changed regarding the rattling...

Tomorrow a friend of mine is coming to check. He has much experience in engines.

I still hope that it's nothing with the valves or something different inside the engine...

ReneH

Re: Re-building my 1986 302/347 Bronco

In reply to this post by 85lebaront2

Hi Bill,

exhaust mainfolds seems not to leak.
The noise is in relation with the rpm.

I've done another video, cause I still can't locate it...
Youtube

I have drained the oil and will check it now.

Let's say it's a sticky lifter. Would it make sense to try a additive first or should I disassemble everything and try to find it?

Another question: maybe my oil pressure gauge is wrong...can it caused from too less oil pressure?
I use 10W40 oil. Maybe it's too fluid?

Gary Lewis

Re: Re-building my 1986 302/347 Bronco

Administrator

I'm not Bill and I'm hesitant to jump in, but I will 'cause I'm sure you are wondering what to do on this Sunday afternoon in Germany.

On the tapping noise, it appears to go away after 6 seconds of the video. Is that right? If so then I think it is a lifter taking its own sweet time to pump up. If so I'd drive the truck before doing anything else. Put some miles/kilometers on it and let things wear in. And after that if you still have a tapping noise for the first few seconds after startup then think about an additive.

As for the oil, I think 10W40 is probably about right. And I doubt it is the cause of the noise.

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow
Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/ZF5/3.55's, D60 w/Ox locker & 10.25 Sterling/Trutrac, Blue Top & Borgeson, & EEC-V MAF/SEFI

ReneH

Re: Re-building my 1986 302/347 Bronco

Hi Gary,

thanks for the answer. It appears first while driving. Now it comes and goes while idling. If I hold it at some rpm, the noise is there continues and won't stop. Only when back in idle rpm.

Does this additives really work?

Maybe one of the lifters that I've bought were bad from the beginning...

Gary Lewis

Re: Re-building my 1986 302/347 Bronco

Administrator

Yes, you may have a bad lifter.

And I do believe some additives work. My brother once bought a 1970 Plymouth Satellite with a 318. The car had been sitting for several months and it had a lifter tick. Dad said to put a bottle of Rislone in it and that quietened it. After driving it for many miles my brother changed oil and didn't put the Rislone in and the tick came back. And over the several years he drove it he tried doing without the additive several more times and each time the tick came back.

We never knew what the problem was, but always suspected that some bit of sludge got into that lifter. But why Rislone quieted it we don't really know.

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

85lebaront2

Re: Re-building my 1986 302/347 Bronco

Administrator

In reply to this post by ReneH

Rene' there have been a lot of issues lately with cams and lifters. It seems to stem mostly from them being made overseas (China) and the metallurgy seems to be extremely poor quality.

Bill AKA "LOBO" Profile

ReneH

Re: Re-building my 1986 302/347 Bronco

In reply to this post by Gary Lewis

Hmm...ok. this sounds like the problem haven't been solved at all.

I thought there were additives that were able to "clean" the oil drills in the lifters, if there is something of the abrasives of the cam break-in inside...

If this is so, it will maybe better to open the valve covers and also the intake mainfold and check everything...

Also if I'm very sure that I have all rocker-arm nuts tighten with torque as specified, I'm also thinking about this as reason...somewhere a not correct tighten or loosen nut or screw...

I have put a long screwdriver on the valve covers, oil-pan, block, etc...no way to surely locate the source of the noise...

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