So I will start with a to-do list:
1. Get the engine starting 2. Set and optimize the timing 3. Fix the tailpipe and maybe try to get the exhaust a little quieter 4. Repair the tail window and add a remote-control circuit 5. Add another remote-control circuit to the central locking system. 6. Replace the most of the sealing rubber (doors, windows, etc.) 7. Install a parking-heater (Not a hot-air-type...one of them that pre-heats the engine) 8. Install a secondary heat-changer in hight of and below the rear-seats with air-outlets in the back of the car 9. Install a 7" Android Radio including 360° cams - At this time I plan to drive the car already - 10. Install a new center console 11. Install a radio clock together with an inside- and an outside temperature display 12. Coat all interior plastic parts with leatherette. 13. Replace all outside trims 14. Paint the whole car new in dual colors, choosen from the original available in 1986 So, also I have bought the car over a year ago now, some of you know, that I'm still at point one... ![]() Regarding my center console, I have invented one by my own. including a dual subwoofer: ![]() It will be made of MDF-boards and coatet with foam and leatherette. So, that's my plan...we will see how much time it will take. Point 1-9 should be done in the next 4 month. 10 and 11 this year. 12 and 13 lately begining of next year. Point 14 isn't sooo important, but necessary...
René's Profile
Bronco 1986 Ford Bronco XLT 302/347 stroker with 351W EEC-IV and 351W factory cam C6 gearbox. Jeep 1986 Jeep CJ7 256 I6 with T5 gearbox. Buggy 1972 HAZ Buggy 122 Ford Cologne V6 |
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The engine is running now. No more backfire, Ok...maybe sometimes slightly backfire...but it runs good so far.
So my first point is done. About the 2nd point: I will try to set the timing a bit lower and test what happens. I'm currently at 9-10 degrees. At 12 degrees the advance exceeds 40 degrees at 1,600 rpm. Now I'm at about 38 degrees at about 2,000 rpm. 4th point also 95 percent done. I only have to find a fitting screw to replace the missing one that fixes the window motor. As my control switch inside the car is corroded and also the key switch defect, I currently can only use my remote control to move the window up and down.
René's Profile
Bronco 1986 Ford Bronco XLT 302/347 stroker with 351W EEC-IV and 351W factory cam C6 gearbox. Jeep 1986 Jeep CJ7 256 I6 with T5 gearbox. Buggy 1972 HAZ Buggy 122 Ford Cologne V6 |
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On the window motor screws, they are probably 1/4-20 self-tapping.
Bill AKA "LOBO" Profile
"Getting old is inevitable, growing up is optional" Darth Vader 1986 F350 460 converted to MAF/SEFI, E4OD 12X3 1/2 rear brakes, traction loc 3:55 gear, 160 amp 3G alternator Wife's 2011 Flex Limited Daily Driver 2009 Flex Limited with factory tow package Project car 1986 Chrysler LeBaron convertible 2.2L Turbo II, modified A413 |
Hi Bill,
thanks for this. I have to look which of my metric screws will fit. Then I'll change all three to have them identical. Now, as moving the window up and down some times, the motor has to do hard work. Sometimes I have to help it. I already have put on new grease and also cleaned and greased the rails in which the plastic rectangle slides...I also have put silicon spray in the guide rails of the window...maybe the wiring is bad? Too much internal resistance? Or do you think a bad motor is more common?
René's Profile
Bronco 1986 Ford Bronco XLT 302/347 stroker with 351W EEC-IV and 351W factory cam C6 gearbox. Jeep 1986 Jeep CJ7 256 I6 with T5 gearbox. Buggy 1972 HAZ Buggy 122 Ford Cologne V6 |
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