Oil questions

Guys - Is my early 90s vintage in-line 6 (300 c.i.) a flat tappet engine?  I've been using Valvoline VR1 with the extra zinc.  Same oil I use in my Studebaker and Rambler for the peace of mind, I guess.

I did a search for oil capacity and get three different answers, from 6 to 7 to 8 qts. and half qts, too.  
Can't remember how much I used four or five months ago so thought I might empty a 5 qt jug and see how far up the dipstick I get, with a new filter, of course.

I'm loving my truck, after all the help you guys gave me last fall.  Replaced a lot of things and she's a good, dependable vehicle now!  Thanks!

Yes to flat tappet (I don't think any 300 was roller cammed stock), but I wouldn't sweat the zinc. Capacity is 6 quarts.

(Disclaimer: Opinions on oil are borderline political and such opinions are like buttholes: we all have them and they all stink in a unique way)

My understanding is that once broken in the amount of ZDDP in current oils is more than adequate for flat tappets. The whole reason ZDDP levels were cut back in oil is one of the same reasons they took lead out of gas- Catalytic converters; metal in the exhaust fouls them up. And both of ours have (or at least had in your case?) a more or less modern pair of cats in them (mesh type), meaning they weren't meant to run a heavy amount of zinc in the oil.

I run full synthetic SuperTech 5W-30 in my 300 and change it twice a year- spring and fall. SuperTech (yes, Walmart store brand) is the same as AmazonBasics and Kirkland (Costco)... made by Warren Oil and is a decent oil for the price.

FWIW I never get 6 quarts out on a change (usually it's closer to 3-4 plus the filter)... in that time it does burn/leak some and I do have to top it off every month or two (the valve and lifter covers are pretty leaky ).

If you care to know, I currently run wix filters (regular, not XP!) that I bought in bulk for my two FL-1A using engines (as Motorcraft hiked their prices recently).

I was running Mobil TDT 5w40 in both my flat tappet 302 and 300 when I had them. Not sure what I'm going to run in my yet to be started newly built 302...but it's a roller engine, so I'm not overly concerned about it.

https://www.mobil.com/en/lubricants/for-personal-vehicles/our-products/products/mobil-1-turbo-diesel-truck-5w-40

Thank you, Guys!

I also use the Kirkland synthetic in my wife's Kia V6 and do the twice-a-year change.
I'm also a fan of Wix filters.  Worked in an auto parts store for a short time and heard horror stories about other filter failures.  I believe NAPA claims theirs are made by Wix.

Probably right about the non-worry over zinc... I have used Delo400 & Ro-smella with fine results.

as far as filters go, I'm a loyal fl1a user. so far! I say that because lately I have been noticing a bit of lifter rattle on now three engines over the past year. I "feel" like this is due to the oil filter not holding siphon. anti drain back failure. it is as simple as replacing the filter and it stops. that has been my experience so far. still paying attention to this on one 300/6 and two 5.0w. I disregard a little noise if it has been sitting a month. and if it goes away immediately. but 12 hrs. is not good. and when people look over and ask "what's that" it is not good. But a simple filter change fixes it? that is a concern!

There has been changes to the FL-1A as of late.

The Bypass valves were changed around, etc.


What do you guys make of this video?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wObQmZTFRYs

Interesting.  Looks like they found ways to make it less expensive to manufacture, but added more filter media.  So I would think that the new one is slightly better.  And if Ford puts them on all of their new vehicles they obviously think they are good.

81-F150-Explorer wrote

There has been changes to the FL-1A as of late.

The Bypass valves were changed around, etc.


What do you guys make of this video?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wObQmZTFRYs

I don't know really, but I've been a bit spooked about counterfeit Ford parts and such that are out there. If I do need to buy Ford stuff, I'll get it from the local dealer and pay extra for it. I don't trust Amazon or EBay anymore for stuff like that.

That's a very good point.  I've gotten counterfeit things from Amazon, although not Motorcraft - as far as I know.  But I don't doubt that they are out there, and Amazon and eBay would be the place to find them.

Wally world still sells Motorcraft FL-1A's (and where I was getting mine). But, they came into short supply when COVID hit and when they came back into decent stock several months ago, the price doubled from $5 a filter to $10 a filter.

I considered them and Wix to be evenly matched, and before Wix was $6 a filter (and still is), so aside from a NOS 90's FL-1A I found at goodwill for $2 (which I consider to be a display piece, not a consumable I'd actually use), I decided buying a lot of 12 Wix filters for IIRC about $75 shipped off eBay was the way to go. My 1995 Ranger's 4.0 also uses them, so such a bulk purchase should work out in my case.

That is interesting. I would like to see how the bypasses work. The thinner can concerns me a little.

I use GM, Hastings, Motorcraft, NAPA, Purolator and Wix filters. Usually NAPA.

I agree with the counterfeit concerns.

I only buy parts from the dealer, or if I have no other choice, a reputable seller.

Motorcraft making things cheaper like stickers on their filters, doesn't help, in my opinion. Easier to fake etc...

In the old days when they changed designs, they would update part numbers. Not so much anymore.
FL-1 and the FL-1-A are interchangeable as example. Should be up to the FL-1-D by now.

the idea of counterfeit is concerning. I don't think that way I'm happy to say but then I have been burned before. the latest fl1a I got does Not have the signature ribbed end but instead has the faceted notches for say a cup socket. did I get a counterfeit or an update? now I wonder?

I have a Ford FL-300 on my 302 currently...it's just a shorter version of the FL-1A. It has the small little ribs like the older filter in the video above. I did buy it from a local Ford dealer.

The video below is the one that spooked me about the counterfeit parts, but it's a couple years old now. It's really just about Motorcraft coils and spark plugs, but it could certainly be done with oil filters easily enough.



Counterfeit OEM parts have been around for quite a while now, especially for Euro stuff like Volkswagens. It's not a big concern of mine, but like the guy says in the video, you have to be careful where you buy this stuff. As he said...Amazon has a few trusted sellers, but EBay generally does not LOL.

Another way to tell is date stamps.

If the package is from 2012, with a 2020 date stamp on it, for example, that is a possible giveaway.

That video is pretty informative.  Ford changes their counterfeit measures from time to time though. Factory Coils from 1999 for instance had yellow "Motorcraft" stickers on them.  Wonder if there are other changes?

On the filter, I personally have been weighing the options with the Ford Racing FL1A filter.  Its more money than the standard FL1A filter but it's supposed to have a better double anti drain back valve and it has more filter media to the tune of I think this guy who cut his apart was some 8 feet more filter material than the standard FL1A filter.

It is a pricier filter however and has me wondering if I should switch to the Ford-Racing filter before break in or just use the FL1A I planned on and then switch to the Ford Racing filter.

The can on the Ford Racing FL1A filter is thicker than on the standard filter as well as the cap with the threaded end being considerably heavier than the standard FL1A filter.

I came across this when I was trying to order a PF47 filter the other night and found out about the PF47E known as the E-Core filter that uses a plastic core over a steel core to save money, I paid $30 on amazon for two PF47`s since I can't get them locally and I ended up getting sent two PF47E`s which you can buy for $5 per filter.

Does seem like lately every thing has been getting redesigned to save money cause I used to buy these old style filters for $5 a piece at the local auto parts store, just like I could buy a big jug of 10w30 Valvoline to do an oil change for $22 now its all $30+ for conventional.  Its a big reason why I take the risk on Amazon cause its the only place you can get the old deals still.  I got a jug 5.1 quarts of 10W30 of synthetic blend Valvoline for $22 for my oil change next week.