I could not find Dana 44 camber shims for EB, So I made this 1.25 degree shim, (plastic prototype) on my bench top milling machine. This is for my conversion to 1978 Bronco disk front end. Found the stud locations on the R&L knuckles are staggered. This will now fit either side.... Seems like a better "fix" that ball joint eccentrics.
Hi Gary! Happy New Year!
Correct, the left tire is not perpendicular to the road where the right side is. Short of trying the "bend the tube" mentality, This is what my Uncle Aldo used to do. (Master mechanic at Franklin Lincoln Mercury) in the 60's through 80's..
Top of the shim circle is @ 1/8" thick, bottom, (6:00) is 3/16". this is placed behind the spindle and will kick the tire/rim out where is belongs.
No more worn-on-the-edge tire.. Not sure if this would work on IFS though.....
If you have it digitized I can't imagine I'd be bothered to go get the material and set up cutting one out if I could have blanks at my door in a couple of days.
You'd still have to taper them, but an hour of my time, gas and the actual cost of material would far exceed ordering before I even thought about setting up a rotary table or whatever to make those slots.
I know a guy with a plasma CNC but I think I'd want my blank cleaner and more accurate than that.
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake.
Too much other stuff to mention.
May be getting a "free" rotary table today. 3-Jaw, I'll plasma cut the inner circle, clamp using the inner circle, cut the outer, then clamp to the outer and finish the inner.
Aldo's other trick.... On my '86 Flareside with EFI 302, Running rough He diagnosed "EGR voltage out of spec" we installed a new one, still got "EGR out of spec" so we could have spent hours tracing vac leaks and other stuff, but he knew on the new EGR's the "plunger" is not as long as original FORD, so with a little metal epoxy, he built up the plunger, and no more "EGR voltage out of spec"
Tomorrow I may pull the '73 Bronco out of "hiding" and ensure fit on both RH and LH, with the thickest part up (for Negative camber adjustment) and then thickest part on bottom for Positive camber adjustment. Verifying slot position for all 4 positions.
I say four positions because on the '78 and up Bronco and F-150 they have five studs holding the spindle to the knuckle, 4 studs are 3" apart. the top 2 are 3.5" apart,= staggered. So top RH and top LH are not in the same position, and of course bottom RH and LH are not the same either = 4 positions.
I want to get the slots to cover all four....1 shim for what ever you need.