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I could not find Dana 44 camber shims for EB, So I made this 1.25 degree shim, (plastic prototype) on my bench top milling machine. This is for my conversion to 1978 Bronco disk front end. Found the stud locations on the R&L knuckles are staggered. This will now fit either side.... Seems like a better "fix" that ball joint eccentrics.
1986 F-150 Flareside 4x4, 351, 4-v, ZF5 speed. AC, Cruise, Tilt, Slider, Digital clock, Radio, Lariat seat, Pwr doors/locks
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Administrator
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That's interesting, Ron. So the shim itself is tapered the 1.25 degrees?
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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I'm following along with great interest. curiosity.
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Hi Gary! Happy New Year!
Correct, the left tire is not perpendicular to the road where the right side is. Short of trying the "bend the tube" mentality, This is what my Uncle Aldo used to do. (Master mechanic at Franklin Lincoln Mercury) in the 60's through 80's.. Top of the shim circle is @ 1/8" thick, bottom, (6:00) is 3/16". this is placed behind the spindle and will kick the tire/rim out where is belongs. No more worn-on-the-edge tire.. Not sure if this would work on IFS though.....
1986 F-150 Flareside 4x4, 351, 4-v, ZF5 speed. AC, Cruise, Tilt, Slider, Digital clock, Radio, Lariat seat, Pwr doors/locks
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Administrator
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Uncle Aldo was really onto something!
It's great that you can recall these tips and workarounds and put them to use, Ron. How do you intend to machine the final version? .063" shim under a mag vice on a surface grinder?
Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake. Too much other stuff to mention. |
Administrator
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That is an interesting approach. And, like Jim, I'm curious how you are going to secure it to machine it. The mag vice is all I can think of unless you clamp one side and mill the other.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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Administrator
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I can see how this might be nice in stainless but my mind went to work holding and a mag vice seemed the easiest way (but I don't have the metal working background that he does.
I'd imagine you could get 4 or more in 3/16 A36 for the $30 minimum of Send Cut Send or one of the other waterjet/laser online job shops. Their turnaround is pretty quick.
Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake. Too much other stuff to mention. |
Administrator
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Yes, outsourcing this might be the way to get it done.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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Administrator
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If you have it digitized I can't imagine I'd be bothered to go get the material and set up cutting one out if I could have blanks at my door in a couple of days.
You'd still have to taper them, but an hour of my time, gas and the actual cost of material would far exceed ordering before I even thought about setting up a rotary table or whatever to make those slots. I know a guy with a plasma CNC but I think I'd want my blank cleaner and more accurate than that.
Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake. Too much other stuff to mention. |
May be getting a "free" rotary table today. 3-Jaw, I'll plasma cut the inner circle, clamp using the inner circle, cut the outer, then clamp to the outer and finish the inner.
Aldo's other trick.... On my '86 Flareside with EFI 302, Running rough He diagnosed "EGR voltage out of spec" we installed a new one, still got "EGR out of spec" so we could have spent hours tracing vac leaks and other stuff, but he knew on the new EGR's the "plunger" is not as long as original FORD, so with a little metal epoxy, he built up the plunger, and no more "EGR voltage out of spec"
1986 F-150 Flareside 4x4, 351, 4-v, ZF5 speed. AC, Cruise, Tilt, Slider, Digital clock, Radio, Lariat seat, Pwr doors/locks
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Administrator
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Ron - That sounds like it should work, but when do you taper it? Or, do you start with material that has a taper?
As for the EGR, the epoxy held up to that heat?
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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Never had an EGR issue after that. On Prototype I tapered first then cut the diameters.
With steel I mat cut dia's first then taper, this way there is less material to machine...
1986 F-150 Flareside 4x4, 351, 4-v, ZF5 speed. AC, Cruise, Tilt, Slider, Digital clock, Radio, Lariat seat, Pwr doors/locks
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Administrator
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I guess the epoxy held.
But, speaking of holding, how are you going to hold the shim to cut the taper?
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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In reply to this post by reamer
I suppose he could tack it to a heftier piece of material that is already 1.5 degrees and flycut.
"Brother Charles" 1984 F-250 6.9IDI 4x4 BWT19
"Lacy" 1984 F-250 6.9IDI 4x4 ZF5 "Tommy" 1985 F-250 4x4 300ci ZF5 |
Magnetic chuck...
1986 F-150 Flareside 4x4, 351, 4-v, ZF5 speed. AC, Cruise, Tilt, Slider, Digital clock, Radio, Lariat seat, Pwr doors/locks
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Administrator
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I always wished I had one of those. Would have made a lot of things a lot easier.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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In reply to this post by reamer
So you plan on using a surface grinder? I would be weary of machining with a shell mill or flycutter on a mag chuck.
"Brother Charles" 1984 F-250 6.9IDI 4x4 BWT19
"Lacy" 1984 F-250 6.9IDI 4x4 ZF5 "Tommy" 1985 F-250 4x4 300ci ZF5 |
Started with 0.250 stock, Used my rotary table the open the ID to correct spec, then cut slots. Face mill at 1.250 degree of table tilt, and finish with 4-point flycutter.
1986 F-150 Flareside 4x4, 351, 4-v, ZF5 speed. AC, Cruise, Tilt, Slider, Digital clock, Radio, Lariat seat, Pwr doors/locks
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Administrator
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Looks excellent! When are you going to install it?
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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Tomorrow I may pull the '73 Bronco out of "hiding" and ensure fit on both RH and LH, with the thickest part up (for Negative camber adjustment) and then thickest part on bottom for Positive camber adjustment. Verifying slot position for all 4 positions.
I say four positions because on the '78 and up Bronco and F-150 they have five studs holding the spindle to the knuckle, 4 studs are 3" apart. the top 2 are 3.5" apart,= staggered. So top RH and top LH are not in the same position, and of course bottom RH and LH are not the same either = 4 positions. I want to get the slots to cover all four....1 shim for what ever you need.
1986 F-150 Flareside 4x4, 351, 4-v, ZF5 speed. AC, Cruise, Tilt, Slider, Digital clock, Radio, Lariat seat, Pwr doors/locks
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