Larry the Lariat - My 86 F150 4x4

Jim is right to check the hing pins & bushing before any adjusting.

You check this with the door almost closed, open just enough to grab it and lift up & down.
When the door is open all the way you are not on the part of the hing that might be warn and you get no play.
Any play in the pins & bushings they need to be replaced.
Dave ----

You guys have nailed it again. I don't know WHAT these are, but they look nothing like the pins on the passenger side (which are painted white like everything else). This is the top one, bottom one doesn't look much better.

I can pick the door up about 1/4" or so, and it's obvious the play is in the hinges.

I notice your body line does not meet by the door handle.
You have probably lost the plastic bushing on the door striker too, because the door is sagging.

https://www.amazon.com/Door-Hinge-Roller-Bushing-Bronco/dp/B07KXD1452/ref=sr_1_25_sspa?crid=G297TF8HR4K1&keywords=dorman%2Bford%2B1986%2Bhinge%2Bpin%2Bkit%2Bof%2B4&qid=1665367895&qu=eyJxc2MiOiItMC4wMSIsInFzYSI6IjAuMDAiLCJxc3AiOiIwLjAwIn0%3D&s=automotive&sprefix=dormant%2Bford%2B1986%2Bhinge%2Bpin%2Bkit%2Bof%2B4%2Cautomotive%2C140&sr=1-25-spons&th=1

https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-38448-Door-Striker-Bolt/dp/B000COB5LM/ref=pd_bxgy_sccl_1/140-7859641-3584234?pd_rd_w=wNXDF&content-id=amzn1.sym.7757a8b5-874e-4a67-9d85-54ed32f01737&pf_rd_p=7757a8b5-874e-4a67-9d85-54ed32f01737&pf_rd_r=XCQWW4P5BG5SB5YXAYQ3&pd_rd_wg=dQPxE&pd_rd_r=0be88cd5-bcb3-4fb5-b3ca-4155c435c656&pd_rd_i=B000COB5LM&psc=1

I notice the bottom of that pin is bent.
I usually cut the pin in the middle of the hinge with a Dremel and remove both halves from the center out.
Vice-grips and a hammer are your friends...

If you have an engine hoist I find it much easier to hang the door from the top of the window frame than to balance it on a floor jack (often with cribbing to reach)

Remove the kick panel and unplug the wires before you remove the rubber accordion tube going to the door.

Yup, that would do it.

Jim's got you covered on the parts, but if you don't have a shop crane you might consider using a ratchet strap up to a tree limb or a hook in the ceiling.

chirkware wrote

. As it stands, I can't even lock the truck unless I want to crawl in through the rear window (the clip that locks it is broke, lol).

 I never addressed this.

The C.R. Laurence DVL-2 hinged metal latch is a direct replacement that lasts much longer than the folded plastic hinge Ford used.



I turned Gary on to this little gem, and I know a bunch of other members use it too.
Haven't heard anyone say it has failed or doesn't fit.

Yup, I like mine.  The plastic hinge broke and this not only solved the problem but is way better.

Finally got a chance to build a parts list and get some stuff ordered:  Radiator hoses, thermostat, radiator cap, all belts, all brake hoses, new wheel cylinders for the back (haven't checked them, but I can't imagine them being OK after 16 years of mostly sitting, and they were $6 each), hardware kit for the rear brakes (since I plan on swapping the cylinders), speed bleeders for all four corners (well worth it for bleeding brakes by yourself), negative battery cable (the one I referenced before that actually bolts to body like the factory one), wiper blades, door hinge pins, and back slider latch.

I realized a few days ago that, since the power steering belt is currently missing, I also did not have a working fan, so I decided to minimize running it until I have the new belts installed.  I think I'll get the belts on, and then I'm gonna cut one of the existing heater hoses, add a flush fitting, and run some radiator flush through the system.  Once the engine is good and warm from that, I'll do an oil change.  After it cools down,  I'll flush it with water, cool, replace all the hoses and top it off with fresh coolant.  <Mental note:  Pick up some distilled agua!> 

Once all that's done, I'll move it over to my driveway so I can get it up in the air a bit and go through the brakes.  It appears the rear brakes are probably exactly the same as my 70...at least, so far it's the same shoes, wheel cylinders, and hardware.  I didn't order shoes or pads as I want to see what I've got.  Thankfully, the local O'Reilly will turn drums and rotors, so I'll take them there if need be.  I'll make a judgement call on wheel bearings once I see them.  I've only gotten into front brakes on a 4wd once, and that was a Nissan Hardbody, so it'll be interesting to see what those are like.  The master cylinder still has fluid in it, albiet nasty.  I'll try to carefully clean off the rusty rim, and suck out most of that fluid before adding fresh and then bleeding all four corners.  Hopefully the front calipers are OK but I'll know soon enough.

My goal is to get a tag and try this thing on the road November 7.  I may have to swap wheels/tires with Ole Blue as Larry's rubber is really, really sketchy looking.  I've got to decide on some new rubber.  Planning to go back to 235/75R15 in place of the 31x10.5's that are on it now.

My son and I took Ole Blue out to the last Cars and Coffee of the season yesterday.  Ole Blue wasn't idling well, and was really sluggish, so we poured in some Berryman's, topped off the tank, and went out to the highway to blow out some cobwebs.  The engine was dying every time we'd come to a stop.  After 20 miles or so of 60+, with several stops and starts, it's running much better now.  Helps that it's got a fresh fuel filter now (old one was NASTY).  Hmmm...that reminds me, I still have to address the fuel system on Larry.  

 

Sounds like a plan, Stan.  Lots of good work!  Hope it goes well.  

A few of the "I have no idea what this is or what it goes to" things I've noticed. I'm guessing maybe emissions stuff that has been deleted? It's all in one area, maybe stuff that all hooks together?

Those are charcoal canisters for evaporative emissions.
The fuel tank vents run up the passenger side frame rail in a thin metal tube.
The other is collecting fumes from the carburetor bowl vent.
You can probably see this in the vacuum routing diagram found on the radiator support.

And being you have 2 containers would show you have dual tanks.
One container piggy backs to the other and vacuum is pulled from 1 that in turns pulls from the other.

As said the vacuum sticker should show how it all gets run.
Mine the vacuum is off the top of the PCV valve to a purge valve then to the canister IIRC.
Because I dont have a purge valve I ran the vacuum right to the PCV but I put a restrictor (smallest carb jet I had and could be smaller) in the vacuum hose or you get a vacuum leak as it pulls to much vacuum.

Some say they get a gas fume smell if the canisters are not hooked up.
Only time I get that is when the truck is hot and I park it, the gas in the carb boils and it smells.
This is on a 81 with a 300 six and dual tanks and yes 2 canisters.
Dave ----

FuzzFace2 wrote

And being you have 2 containers would show you have dual tanks.
One container piggy backs to the other and vacuum is pulled from 1 that in turns pulls from the other.

As said the vacuum sticker should show how it all gets run.
Mine the vacuum is off the top of the PCV valve to a purge valve then to the canister IIRC.
Because I dont have a purge valve I ran the vacuum right to the PCV but I put a restrictor (smallest carb jet I had and could be smaller) in the vacuum hose or you get a vacuum leak as it pulls to much vacuum.

Some say they get a gas fume smell if the canisters are not hooked up.
Only time I get that is when the truck is hot and I park it, the gas in the carb boils and it smells.
This is on a 81 with a 300 six and dual tanks and yes 2 canisters.
Dave ----

It’s actually single tank. Of course, I can’t speak for its history before about 2005, when the prior owner bought it.



Looks like I need to spend some time studying this:

I just got done replacing belts. Power steering works! Yay!  I swapped the negative cable over to and got rid of the really badly cracked original.

Thought I’d take a minute to show the negative cable I bought of rock auto for anyone else needing to replace theirs. I liked that it actually has the body ground point on it.

It’s actually slightly longer than the original, which I liked as it gives a bit of slack I was lacking before.

Only issue were the mounting holes were slightly small. The hole for the block I drilled out to 29/64 (I’d go 15/32 next time to give it a bit more play). The body mount hole was also a bit small, which I didn’t realize until I already had it bolted to the block. It was close enough that the self tapping bolt was able to bite through it. I’d recommend taking care of that beforehand though as it would be easier.

Overall, it seems a quality cable, and I’m glad I eliminated the very stiff and cracked original.

Well, the diagram shows two charcoal canisters, and two of all the control valves.

I'd assume one of the previous owners "ripped out all that smog crap!"
If nothing but the boxes is left, and you don't need them functional for inspection I'd say forget about it.

Gary should have a glossary (Rosetta Stone 🤣) for all the vacuum abbreviations, but I'm not sure where it is.

Thanks for the report on the ground cable.  Should save people a lot of looking.  

And I agree with Jim, if everything is gone on the vent valves I'd do without that function.  In fact I did on Big Blu, and have no problems.

But the Rosetta Stone on vacuum abbreviations is at Documentation/Vacuum Systems/Vacuum Systems Acronyms.

I had hoped to have Larry moving under his own power today, but it kept stalling on me when I'd put it in gear. I think I also ran the battery down a lot after cranking it so many times today (it died on me a bunch of times until I adjusted the idle screw to bring the rpms up a smidge) so I decided to call it a night after hooking up the trickle charger. Not sure how soon I'll get back to it... Tomorrow we'll be busy with church and I'm having oral surgery Monday. Two teeth pulled and a bone graft. Sounds like fun! I'm off work a few days to heal up from that so I may not get to touch it again until next Saturday. Nothing exciting, but here's my latest video:

Thanks for the product endorsement and part number.  

I have a tapered hand reamer in my auto electric tool box that I use for opening up eyelets and lugs when need be.
Probably bought it at Radio Shack around 1980. Total garbage but it doesn't get dull cutting copper.

Hope your surgery goes well and you get your carburetor sorted out.

Larry is sounding good.  

The battery voltage looks right on as well.  So you are slowly peeling the onion, doing the crying, and peeling again.  Some day you'll have a Bloomin' Onion!  

And I hope your surgery goes well.  That sounds painful.  

Nice vid. Good work on Larry.

Best of luck with the surgery!