Jim's 1982 300 Six Bronco Original Restoration

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Jim's 1982 300 Six Bronco Original Restoration

tcbaklash
This post was updated on .
Hello everyone,


Welcome to my build thread. The goal here is to get my 1982 Bronco back to original condition. That's it!
This thread is basically ripped from FullSizeBronco forums and will be basically identical in content but I can't control user posts. Corrections based on later info are in italics.

Just a little introduction on myself. I've been messing around with cars for a few years now and I finally have the confidence and funds to do a restoration. I had a 2000 Toyota 4Runner that I was wrenching on for a couple years but even before I bought it, what I really wanted was a Bronco or a Blazer, something big that can take highway driving like a champ with a removable top. For a while I've been casually looking so last week I went out and bought a 1982 with a 300 inline six and 4 speed manual trans and thought "wow this thing would look really cool with a new paint job!" So here I am with this Bronco sitting in my driveway. As a young man of 27, I have limited knowledge of Ford trucks (I've owned a 2003 Ranger, 1990 Ranger, and a 1994 Explorer scrap pile...), I have zero experience with carbureted engines, and I've never done any jobs bigger than a simple engine swap or interior rebuild. But I am willing to put in the hard work to get the job done and come out of this with a pretty truck I can be proud of. I invite constructive criticism for anything I am doing incorrectly, as I am still learning and I want this build to be done the right way.


This particular 1982 Ford Bronco is a base model equipped with a carb'd 300cid inline six and 3 speed manual with overdrive (SROD or RUG). Odometer says 68,000, but the condition of the truck leads me to believe that it hasn't rolled over. The paint is tu-tone Light Spruce Metallic with Wimbledon White, interior is all spruce with front bucket seats and the rear bench. It has been off the road and utilized as a farm truck since it was last registered in 1996 and as a result has fallen into disrepair, but never ever modified. It has many missing and damaged parts, but the remaining stuff is all original. The frame has surface rust as to be expected, but nothing some paint can't fix. The body is in decent shape, needs slight bodywork and paint all around, but the hood has some really bad rust that will require welding and the tailgate has rusted all the way through and will need to be replaced. Floorboards have a slight bit of bubbling rust from accumulated water but they're salvageable. Pretty much everything you can think of will need to be refurbished. Some parts are good enough to be reused, and some are simply done for. It runs rough from vacuum leaks, it starts up like it was brand new, shifts no problem, goes into 4WD, but the only brakes it's got is the e-brake which is clinging on to dear life on my sloped driveway.

I will be vlogging my progress in addition to regular updates on this thread.



Due to the nature of my workspace (or lack thereof) and unwillingness to dump all my money into the truck in one go, this restoration will take place in 4 distinct but tentative phases.

Phase 1:
All of this phase will be done outdoors pretty much. I can bring parts in the garage for work but my roommates got so much junk that it's minimal at best. The truck needs to run and be driven on the road. I am moving in November and I don't even know if I will have more or less room at the next place to work on it, so it needs to move and be driven before then. I am still determined though, I've seen restorations online done in an apartment parking space.

-Rebuild and paint the fuel tank system (in progress). The guy who sold it to me had the fuel tank disconnected as he was concerned with rust.
-Paint the rear frame while the fuel tank is out.
-Get the brakes working. The master cylinder and brake booster seem to be working, it just has no fluid whatsoever.
-Prepare for passing California emissions. There's a lot of rotted and disconnected vacuum lines in there.
-Get wheels and road ready tires. Currently on original steel wheels with itty bitty roller tires.
-Strip and paint interior (in progress). I don't want that floor rust to get any worse.
-Acquire and install rear window OR acquire and install soft top.
-Sound deadener on the bottom and sending it to a shop for some new carpet or vinyl.
-Troubleshoot and repair any electrical needed for on-road use.
-Needs all mirrors.

Phase 2:
This phase is still kind of far off from being started and it will be a very long duration and VERY expensive. At this point, the truck should be at a point where it can be driven across town if need be. Hopefully in the middle of this phase I will get it reliable enough to be driven on road trips and camping next summer before an engine rebuild and exterior paint.

-New stock level suspension with aftermarket comfy shocks.
-Attack the rust on the exterior body. Top of roof, hood, passenger side.
-Replace tailgate.
-Replace all brake components.
-Complete front-end rebuild.
-Replace and flush entire cooling system.
-Rebuild engine with all new belt drive components and build new wire harness.
-Send to shop to paint exterior.
-Refurbish original wheels and put on new tires
-Paint rest of frame.

Phase 3:
This phase is reserved for the things that are "nice to have" which weren't required for reliable and comfortable driving in Phase 2 will probably end up here. Engine rebuild and exterior paint may end up here as well but that of course is tentative. Engine rebuild must happen at the same time as paint.

-Swap in reupholstered seats. Captain's chairs.
-Start piecing together the interior.
-Retrosound stereo with new speakers, wires.
-Put all the nice exterior bits back on like trim, badges, grille, new bumpers, etc.
-Transmission, transfer case, and drive shafts rebuild.

Phase 4:
Phase 4 is basically everything that I need my own garage/shop to complete. I will be buying a house in the near future and this stuff simply can't be done in my current living situation.

-Complete rear end rebuild.
-Frame-off painting. Paint body underside. Previous frame painting will have been completely temporary.
-Fiberglass top full restore.
1982 Ford Bronco - 300cid I6 restomod
2001 Dodge Ram 1500 5.2L V8 4x4 "The Beater"
2020 Suzuki DR650

Check out my YouTube channel for my Bronco restoration here:
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCOLZPURQ-mSEKs4sQcb59UQ?
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Re: Jim's 1982 300 Six Bronco Original Restoration

ArdWrknTrk
Administrator
Ok, I'm ready to follow along, fellow Jim!  



You say you think it has a BW T18 or 19.
T-18's were found on Windsor pattern bells.
T-19's pretty much on 460's and IDI's
You can tell.... If it has a driver's side PTO cover it's a T-19.

But neither of these (or the New Process, which had an aluminum lid, unlike Borg Warner) is an overdrive gearbox.

SROD or RUG were your only choices there...
There were no Mazda 5 speeds in '82.
 Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake.
Too much other stuff to mention.
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Re: Jim's 1982 300 Six Bronco Original Restoration

tcbaklash
In reply to this post by tcbaklash
Just as a heads-up on upcoming content:

I will be posting a vlog of the fuel tank rebuild as soon as all my parts come in. This video I plan to be more "artistic" and will include time-lapse sequences and following the progress of the repair. I hope for future videos to follow a similar formula as I get better at working and filming and showing the viewer precisely what's going on at the same time. Soon will also be a video of stripping and painting the floorpan.


For the fuel tank rebuild, I have a 32gal tank with skid plate. I peeked inside the tank with an inspection camera and found no rust. While removing the tank, the rubber fuel hose cracked. I stripped and painted the outside of the fuel tank with Rustoleum Bright Galvanized spray paint. Skid plate was done with Rustoleum Automotive Primer under Rustoleum Black Gloss spray paint. I also painted the top of the fuel sending unit.




I tested the fuel sending unit on resistance with my Fluke multimeter and determined that the float sensor seemed to be working properly. The fuel line on the sending unit was clogged with rust and the whole thing will probably need to be replaced soon but I need to get it running first. Sending unit strainer was busted so I ordered a replacement made for a 60s Mustang but it fit just fine. As for new parts, I am replacing the breather valve and line and gasket, sending unit lock ring and gasket, fuel filler hose, fuel line, fuel filter, and all the hardware.
1982 Ford Bronco - 300cid I6 restomod
2001 Dodge Ram 1500 5.2L V8 4x4 "The Beater"
2020 Suzuki DR650

Check out my YouTube channel for my Bronco restoration here:
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCOLZPURQ-mSEKs4sQcb59UQ?
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Re: Jim's 1982 300 Six Bronco Original Restoration

Rembrant
In reply to this post by tcbaklash
Very cool project. It seems to be very intact for its age and condition...everything is there. The early 4spd OD 4x4 shifters always seem kinda funky to me with the 4x4 shifter on the opposite side (I believe Ray Cecil's 1982 Flareside is like this as well).

Can't wait to see more.
1952 Mercury M-1 Pickup '96 5.0/4R70W swap project...
1984 F150 4X2 Flareside. Mild 302 w/ 5spd. Sold.
1980 F150 4X4 Flareside. 300i6 w/ 5spd. Sold in 2021.
1980 F100 4X2 Flareside. 351w/2bbl w/NP435. Sold in 1995

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Re: Jim's 1982 300 Six Bronco Original Restoration

Gary Lewis
Administrator
Yes, this is a cool project!  I'm along for the ride, and for encouragement awa helping if I can.  
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow
Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/ZF5/3.55's, D60 w/Ox locker in front & 10.25 Spicer/Trutrac in back, & EEC-V MAF/SEFI

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Re: Jim's 1982 300 Six Bronco Original Restoration

tcbaklash
In reply to this post by ArdWrknTrk
ArdWrknTrk wrote
Ok, I'm ready to follow along, fellow Jim!  



You say you think it has a BW T18 or 19.
T-18's were found on Windsor pattern bells.
T-19's pretty much on 460's and IDI's
You can tell.... If it has a driver's side PTO cover it's a T-19.

But neither of these (or the New Process, which had an aluminum lid, unlike Borg Warner) is an overdrive gearbox.

SROD or RUG were your only choices there...
There were no Mazda 5 speeds in '82.
I just took a peek under the truck after I read this. The transmission does look the same shape as the SROD and RUG but until I can clean the nameplate I can't know for certain which of the two. I was largely relying on the information I consumed on Wikipedia for deciding what I wanted to call the transmission in my truck lol.

I know the T18/T19 have good reputations for being stout, but how do the SROD and RUG stack up? The info I've found online so far points to it being a popular replacement unit for muscle cars.
1982 Ford Bronco - 300cid I6 restomod
2001 Dodge Ram 1500 5.2L V8 4x4 "The Beater"
2020 Suzuki DR650

Check out my YouTube channel for my Bronco restoration here:
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCOLZPURQ-mSEKs4sQcb59UQ?
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Re: Jim's 1982 300 Six Bronco Original Restoration

tcbaklash
Anyone have a source for this hardware? It’s a lock washer for the fuel tank.

1982 Ford Bronco - 300cid I6 restomod
2001 Dodge Ram 1500 5.2L V8 4x4 "The Beater"
2020 Suzuki DR650

Check out my YouTube channel for my Bronco restoration here:
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCOLZPURQ-mSEKs4sQcb59UQ?
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Re: Jim's 1982 300 Six Bronco Original Restoration

ArdWrknTrk
Administrator
In reply to this post by tcbaklash
If it's stock you can tell the gearbox from the door jamb sticker.


Sorry, I have no idea about lock washers on the fuel tank.
 Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake.
Too much other stuff to mention.
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Re: Jim's 1982 300 Six Bronco Original Restoration

Rembrant
ArdWrknTrk wrote
If it's stock you can tell the gearbox from the door jamb sticker.
He has the SROD transmission. The shifter location is one indicator, but the "Push" for reverse is the confirmation. See below.

http://www.f150hub.com/trans/t170-smod-srod-tod.html

The SROD has a single rail shift mechanism with the short curved shifter back close to the seat.




1952 Mercury M-1 Pickup '96 5.0/4R70W swap project...
1984 F150 4X2 Flareside. Mild 302 w/ 5spd. Sold.
1980 F150 4X4 Flareside. 300i6 w/ 5spd. Sold in 2021.
1980 F100 4X2 Flareside. 351w/2bbl w/NP435. Sold in 1995

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Re: Jim's 1982 300 Six Bronco Original Restoration

ArdWrknTrk
Administrator
All I saw was a picture of a gas tank??

I trust you know, Cory.
I just didn't have any clues, other than it wasn't an OD T-18!  😉
 Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake.
Too much other stuff to mention.
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Re: Jim's 1982 300 Six Bronco Original Restoration

Rembrant
ArdWrknTrk wrote
All I saw was a picture of a gas tank??

I trust you know, Cory.
I just didn't have any clues, other than it wasn't an OD T-18!  😉
It was in his video. The fact that the shifter is back close to the seat means that it is either the SMOD or SROD. The later 4spd/OD shifter base is closer to the dash like the T-18, T-19, or NP435. The fact that the shifter says "push" for reverse means it is the SROD (T170FS-RUG-SROD).



That's why I said earlier that it is sort of a unique configuration as the 4x4 shifter is to the right of the transmission shifter. I believe Ray Cecil's '82 is the same. I don't know if it's considered rare or not...but I think it's fairly uncommon.
1952 Mercury M-1 Pickup '96 5.0/4R70W swap project...
1984 F150 4X2 Flareside. Mild 302 w/ 5spd. Sold.
1980 F150 4X4 Flareside. 300i6 w/ 5spd. Sold in 2021.
1980 F100 4X2 Flareside. 351w/2bbl w/NP435. Sold in 1995

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Re: Jim's 1982 300 Six Bronco Original Restoration

FuzzFace2
Sounds like a cool project and will be following.

I think some of the things in the phases will be moved like the brake over haul.
If you are there to get brakes on the truck you might as well go thru the whole thing rear to front.
It would be a shame to say replace a leaking brake line get the system filled and the next week have a heel cly. leak.
Heck you are going to pull the rear drums to make sure the shoes are good and cly not leaking so just replace the parts when there.

Up front you may not need or want to replace the calipers and only the pads if the rotors look good.
I would replace ALL rubber brake hoses, 2 at the calipers and 1 at the rear axle.
A master is cheap and being the rear wheel cly., rubber hoses are new you can do a flush of the brake fluid and know the brake system is good to go or should that be stop LOL.

Even if you need or want to replace the metal lines it is not hard to do.

BTW when I got into the brakes on my truck I found long shoes on 1 side and short on the other, only 1 ebrake cable, master was empty on 1 side and front brake pads vary low.
The only thing I did not replace was the metal lines as they did look good.
I know the brake system is 100% now and don't worry about it.

Brakes are not something you want to only do a half azzed job on.
Sorry for going on so long
Dave ----
Dave G.
81 F100 flare side 300 six / AA OD / NP435 / 2.75 gear
http://cars.grantskingdom1.com/index.php/1980-Ford-F100?page=1
81 F100 style side 300 six/SROD parts truck -RIP
http://cars.grantskingdom1.com/index.php/1981-Ford-F100
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Re: Jim's 1982 300 Six Bronco Original Restoration

ArdWrknTrk
Administrator
Wait!
You had both leading shoes on one side and both trailing shoes on the other?!?!

What kind of idiot did you get that truck from?
OMG, it scares me to think I'm out on the road with vehicles like that!
 Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake.
Too much other stuff to mention.
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Re: Jim's 1982 300 Six Bronco Original Restoration

tcbaklash
In reply to this post by FuzzFace2
FuzzFace2 wrote
Brakes are not something you want to only do a half azzed job on.
Sorry for going on so long
Dave ----
You're right though. I'll look into doing it all very soon.
1982 Ford Bronco - 300cid I6 restomod
2001 Dodge Ram 1500 5.2L V8 4x4 "The Beater"
2020 Suzuki DR650

Check out my YouTube channel for my Bronco restoration here:
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCOLZPURQ-mSEKs4sQcb59UQ?
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Re: Jim's 1982 300 Six Bronco Original Restoration

FuzzFace2
In reply to this post by ArdWrknTrk
ArdWrknTrk wrote
Wait!
You had both leading shoes on one side and both trailing shoes on the other?!?!

What kind of idiot did you get that truck from?
OMG, it scares me to think I'm out on the road with vehicles like that!
Yep a little proof of 1 side

Only good thing was it was not driven on the road, farm truck project, other than to teach son to drive stick and I don't think that was much as the son did not like the truck.
I tried to send a picture of the truck when done but the number is no longer used. I knew they were moving and why they sold it.

That is why when it is new to you you go thru the brakes really good!
Dave ----
Dave G.
81 F100 flare side 300 six / AA OD / NP435 / 2.75 gear
http://cars.grantskingdom1.com/index.php/1980-Ford-F100?page=1
81 F100 style side 300 six/SROD parts truck -RIP
http://cars.grantskingdom1.com/index.php/1981-Ford-F100
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Re: Jim's 1982 300 Six Bronco Original Restoration

ArdWrknTrk
Administrator
I imagine having one wheel lock up and not release isn't too dangerous -in a pasture-

But why don't people who have no idea leave one side together and work on the other, so they can compare?

Probably grabbed two shoes off the top and slapped them in, then used the others on the bottom on the other side.

 Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake.
Too much other stuff to mention.
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Re: Jim's 1982 300 Six Bronco Original Restoration

tcbaklash
So I have done quite a bit since August, and I have not held up on my promise to make more videos or document things, and will probably continue to not do these things because I no longer have a computer and everything is much slower on a phone.

However, I will share the progress I have made so far.



Last year in Sept I did all the brakes so I could prepare to move into another house. I had to pull steel brake lines from the junkyard because the flare nuts froze on mine. All in all, I replaced the following with new parts:
- calipers
- pads/shoes
- drums
- all hardware

Because the truck was dieseling on shut down and wouldn’t reliably start or run, I investigated the ignition and the solution was just a new set of spark plugs... At this time, I also started a fire in the engine bay because of oil-soaked animal nests built up on my exhaust manifold. I sprayed them down and replaced my valve cover gasket.

After I got the truck on a trailer in October and moved it, I didn’t touch it until January. In December I bought a motorcycle so that took up all my attention.

In January I started doing wheel bearings which evolved into a full front-end rebuild after my front diff started leaking when jacking up the front frame. I dropped the whole TTB suspension and disassembled it.



Then I brushed radius arms/support arms with POR-15 gloss. I did the same on the frame section above the suspension.



Goodyear Wrangler Adventure 31/10.5/15 tires were mounted on 15x8” Pro Comp wagon wheels.



Parts installed in front suspension rebuild:
- all new grade 8 hardware
- Bilstein 4600 shocks
- stock height springs
- inner/outer wheel and spindle bearings
- ball joints
- tie rods and assembly
- Spicer u joints
- Spicer slip shaft and slip yoke (could not separate original ones)
- brake rotors and hubs
- Warn Premium locking hubs
- Energy Suspension polyurethane radius arm and pivot bushings
- bump stops



I took it out for a spin up and down the street, and by god do those Bilstein shocks up front feel good. This will end up being quite the comfortable rig for long road trips.

This arm of the project has made me take a wildly different path than I first planned. My next move is a rear end rebuilt. After that it’s the transmission. Then at the same time I will rebuild the engine while the truck is in the body shop.
1982 Ford Bronco - 300cid I6 restomod
2001 Dodge Ram 1500 5.2L V8 4x4 "The Beater"
2020 Suzuki DR650

Check out my YouTube channel for my Bronco restoration here:
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCOLZPURQ-mSEKs4sQcb59UQ?
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Re: Jim's 1982 300 Six Bronco Original Restoration

grumpin
Nice! Great job!

Those white wagon wheels look good on your Bronco!
Dane
1986 F250HD SC XLT Lariat 4x4 460 C6 Sold
1992 Bronco XLT 4x4 351W E4OD
1998 Suburban LT K2500 454 4L80E
1998 GMC Sierra SLE K1500 350 4L60E
2000 Nissan Xterra XE 4WD 3.3 RE4R01A
Oregon
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Re: Jim's 1982 300 Six Bronco Original Restoration

Gary Lewis
Administrator
In reply to this post by tcbaklash
Wow!  That is a LOT of work.  Well done!  The TTBs and wheels look good.  You are really going to enjoy it.  
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow
Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/ZF5/3.55's, D60 w/Ox locker in front & 10.25 Spicer/Trutrac in back, & EEC-V MAF/SEFI

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Re: Jim's 1982 300 Six Bronco Original Restoration

Gsmblue
That is bloody brilliant!

As and when I have an indoor space I am doing that kind of front end rebuild - and the rear too. I will have to buy a lot of PRO15 gloss.

I just love the look of that. Top work.
1985.5 F-150 XL Explorer standard cab 5.0 EFI AOD 4x4
Daily Driver. We call her Eunice the Ute.

1982 Bronco XLT Lariat 351W AOD 4x4
Code name Esperanza, or Espy to her friends. Please see my Project thread for the blow by blow.

1984 F-350 XL Centurion crew cab 460 T19 4x4
"Eylza Dual-little"
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