Installing Rear Windows

This video does a good job of explaining how to install a rear window:

I remember watching this guy's video before I went to the junkyard to pull the 1996 sliding rear window for my '84. I've since removed a couple more. Installation is easy too, especially with two people.

I removed and installed my back glass referencing the starter video of this thread. The gentleman does a fantastic job explaining the process. My rear glass, however, differs from the glass in the video in that it has the chrome molding.  

I purchased my rear window weatherstrip for my 86 F150 through NPD and it can be seen here: https://www.npdlink.com/product/weatherstrip-rear-window/133323?oh=vBb2xCMKOis3kw54JNqYNDWmUgzgXOkJqHr&ohk=PRZSKW3tzCIZHoTbACx9Z6o9W3U

The product is put out by a company called Precision Replacement Parts and their website can be found here: https://www.prp.com/

Lots of information at the prp website and videos for installation of weatherstrip and glass. I also emailed them and they were prompt to respond. At $38 their weatherstrip is a bargain.

When I pulled it out of the packaging, I had some concerns, as it did not appear to follow the contour of my glass. I knew what was front and back but not top and bottom/left or right. There is a vulcanized seam that is obvious upon inspection. That seam goes on the bottom and centered. See photos:



With the seam centered below the "Carlite" logo (bottom center of glass) and liberal use of soapy water, I pulled the weatherstrip around my glass. That took a little coaxing and some muscle from my son, pretty much a two man job. I then inserted some 3/8" cord in the appropriate channel and taped the rope up onto the glass.



Window was then installed into truck as shown in the introductory video. The installed result was concerning to me, as all four corners were curling up and away from the cab.


But, I had yet to install the chrome molding. Molding was also purchased through NPD. It is a Dennis Carpenter Product, thus two times more than what it should cost. Molding can be seen here:https://www.npdlink.com/product/molding-kit-window-chrome-incl-connectors/167958?oh=vBb2xCMKOis3kw54JNqYNDWmUgzgXOkJqHr&ohk=PRZSKW3tzCIZHoTbACx9Z6o9W3U

Insertion of the molding pushes the gasket flush and tightly against the cab. All four corners closed up when I inserted the molding. Insertion of the molding requires a special tool and I used Lisle 47000. Use of that tool can be found on Youtube. Tools I used are pictured below along with the final installed picture.



I'm not 100 percent happy with the chrome strip, as I marred it in a few places with the insertion tool during the insertion process. I'll be replacing it at a later date. Complicating matters was the fact that it was 45 degrees in my shop while installing it. Also, and this is where I really messed up, the Lisle tool comes with four different heads; I initially choose the wrong head. I had three failures before I figured out I was using the wrong head and I can tell you it was not intuitive. When you begin installation, you must ensure that the trim fully seats, as there is no going back, the whole thing needs to be pulled.  Vaseline and soapy water facilitated the installation of the chrome strip.  
 
 


 

Thanks for posting this! Good job!

These jobs are tough, if you did it everyday that would be one thing, if you don’t it’s learn as you go.

John - Thanks!  I may have to do that one of these days.  

Will have to add this to my youtube play list.

Need to find something for the sliding rear glass cause it looks like in the exploded diagram that the whole thing can be disassembled once out of the truck into many individual components.  Thinking of doing that to replace the glass seals and if it can come apart I may just put the original glass up and have a glass shop cut me some AC tint glass for the frames.

Rusty_S85 wrote

Will have to add this to my youtube play list.

Need to find something for the sliding rear glass cause it looks like in the exploded diagram that the whole thing can be disassembled once out of the truck into many individual components.  Thinking of doing that to replace the glass seals and if it can come apart I may just put the original glass up and have a glass shop cut me some AC tint glass for the frames.

They are really easy to disassemble, at least the later ones are anyway. I have a factory sliding rear window out of a 1996, and I disassembled it down to every single piece. This way I was able to deep clean all of the tracks and channels, as well as the felts and rubbers. I sanded and repainted the two upper and lower aluminum channels (aluminum color) and I repainted the glass frames with satin black.

This was a 24 year old SRW i grabbed at the junkyard for $35 and I was able to make it look and work like brand new.

Rembrant wrote

Rusty_S85 wrote

Will have to add this to my youtube play list.

Need to find something for the sliding rear glass cause it looks like in the exploded diagram that the whole thing can be disassembled once out of the truck into many individual components.  Thinking of doing that to replace the glass seals and if it can come apart I may just put the original glass up and have a glass shop cut me some AC tint glass for the frames.

They are really easy to disassemble, at least the later ones are anyway. I have a factory sliding rear window out of a 1996, and I disassembled it down to every single piece. This way I was able to deep clean all of the tracks and channels, as well as the felts and rubbers. I sanded and repainted the two upper and lower aluminum channels (aluminum color) and I repainted the glass frames with satin black.

This was a 24 year old SRW i grabbed at the junkyard for $35 and I was able to make it look and work like brand new.

Looks good, what kind of rubber goes on the stationary glass?

I bought one piece and its like 12" long and the parts and illustration guide states 4 required I dont know if thats 4 per stationary glass or 4 total for the whole back window.

Mine is the original factory one on my '82.  Plan on salvaging it with fresh gaskets.

This is the one I got.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-OEM-Weatherstrip-Back-Window-NOS-E3TZ-1042052-B-82-91-F100-F150-F250-F350-/231213619722

1986F150Six wrote

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-OEM-Weatherstrip-Back-Window-NOS-E3TZ-1042052-B-82-91-F100-F150-F250-F350-/231213619722

Yep Im watching that one as well as many others, just trying to picture how they fit on the stationary glass which is what my parts and illustration guide states they are for.  Also trying to figure out how many I need as my bookstates 4 required but not sure if its for the whole window or 4 required per stationary glass.  Doesnt really appear long enough for two each side to fit but I also am unsure how it all fits together gasket wise.

Rusty_S85 wrote

Looks good, what kind of rubber goes on the stationary glass?

I don't know on the earlier windows as mine came out of a 1996. Mine had two thin slivers of rubber seals, and two brush like seals. I cleaned them used a toothbrush on the brush like seals, and they came out like brand new. They are about a foot long on each side, so if you only have one it is just for one side.

There are also horizontal rubber seals top and bottom. They are attached to the aluminum channels. I don't know if they can even be replaced. You could try wiping them down with the rubber restorer product.

Rembrant wrote

Rusty_S85 wrote

Looks good, what kind of rubber goes on the stationary glass?

I don't know on the earlier windows as mine came out of a 1996. Mine had two thin slivers of rubber seals, and two brush like seals. I cleaned them used a toothbrush on the brush like seals, and they came out like brand new. They are about a foot long on each side, so if you only have one it is just for one side.

There are also horizontal rubber seals top and bottom. They are attached to the aluminum channels. I don't know if they can even be replaced. You could try wiping them down with the rubber restorer product.

This is from the parts and illustration book, this is before 2/83 which my '82 falls under. The gasket above that I posted which is about 12" long is marked 42052 top right as fitting around 42006 stationary glass.  But I dont see how this would fit when its only 12" long.

In the parts section 42052 shows E3TZ-1042052-B is for use on stationary glass states 4 under qty.  Then there is a E3TZ-1042052-C which is for use on moveable glass and it states 2 qty.

The horizontal seals you pointed out are 422A20 and for mine E3TZ-10422A20-B is the lower run and E3TZ-10422A36-A is the upper.  States that two uppers under qty and 1 lower.



This is the stationary and moveable glass seals


This is the glass run that you marked at top and bottom.


Just wish I knew how the stationary seals fit, cause I hate to stock up on 4 of them when I come across them and I need 8 like wise I hate to stock up on 8 when all I need is 4.

Rusty_S85 wrote

Just wish I knew how the stationary seals fit, cause I hate to stock up on 4 of them when I come across them and I need 8 like wise I hate to stock up on 8 when all I need is 4.

I'll be removing one of the old style SRW's from my 1980 in the coming months and replacing it with the factory slider I pulled out of my 1995 chassis donor truck. If I think of it, I'll take it apart and see what the gaskets and seals arrangement looks like. I don't think it will be worth anything to sell.

Rembrant wrote

Rusty_S85 wrote

Just wish I knew how the stationary seals fit, cause I hate to stock up on 4 of them when I come across them and I need 8 like wise I hate to stock up on 8 when all I need is 4.

I'll be removing one of the old style SRW's from my 1980 in the coming months and replacing it with the factory slider I pulled out of my 1995 chassis donor truck. If I think of it, I'll take it apart and see what the gaskets and seals arrangement looks like. I don't think it will be worth anything to sell.

Sounds good, would help those of us that have a functional original that wants to reseal it with fresh gaskets.

I think they are worth something, but only to the right people.  So many people go with those LMC aftermarket sliding rear windows cause they use the GM style clasp instead of the folding plastic clasp that breaks after 5 or so years.  Even more people get rid of them and go with a solid single piece glass, the 82 we built at work with the 5.0 coyote he wanted a single piece and had the body shop toss the sliding glass back window.

You don't need to suffer the plastic clasp.
CRL's DVL-2 fits fine and it's all metal with proper hinge pins.