Electrical issue.

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Electrical issue.

Matt D
Just replaced my solenoid because the starter stuck on. Now I'm getting nothing. No dash lights, radio, headlights,etc. If I bypass with the two large terminals, it cranks but dies when I remove connection. Did I wire this solenoid wrong? There was no wire on Ignition terminal on my old solenoid by the way.
Motorcraft solenoid
86 F150 EFI .302
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Re: Electrical issue.

Matt D
86 F150 EFI .302
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Re: Electrical issue.

Matt D
Not sure why the image came in upsidedown
86 F150 EFI .302
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Re: Electrical issue.

Ray Cecil
In reply to this post by Matt D
All, this is my friend Matt who owns the old Wood Flatbed 86 build.

So, for some context, it's an 86 302 c6 efi truck.

Welcome to the forum Matt. Hope you stick around here and have some fun sharing your tinkering with everyone else.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1251778-wood-flatbed-build-3d-model-and-construction-plans-22.html
1988 F250 Supercab Longbed 7.3 IDI, C6, 1356, GEARVENDORS, 4.10 Sterling with autolocker

1986 F150 302, C6, 9" 2.75, Wood Flatbed


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Re: Electrical issue.

taskswap
In reply to this post by Matt D
Post the part number for it. I can't find a Motorcraft solenoid that has four posts instead of three. Maybe you have a variant that requires a ground. (That empty post in your pic.)
--
1981 F-250 Custom. 6.6L V8, 4 barrel Holley carb, ARA aftermarket A/C.
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Re: Electrical issue.

Matt D
E8TZ 11450 B
86 F150 EFI .302
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Re: Electrical issue.

Matt D
In reply to this post by taskswap
The empty post is marked "I". Pretty sure it's "ignition". There was nothing on the post before I replaced it.
86 F150 EFI .302
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Re: Electrical issue.

Ray Cecil
In reply to this post by taskswap
Matt, post all the symptoms from when the problem started until now. That solenoid should case ground to the inner fender, at least I would think so. Try making sure the mounting flanges on the solenoid have a good clean contact surface on the fender. May or may not help, but worth a shot.
1988 F250 Supercab Longbed 7.3 IDI, C6, 1356, GEARVENDORS, 4.10 Sterling with autolocker

1986 F150 302, C6, 9" 2.75, Wood Flatbed


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Re: Electrical issue.

81-F150-Explorer
In reply to this post by Matt D
A Few questions:

The RED colored cable, is that the cable that goes to the battery Positive terminal?
The Black Cable, is that the cable that goes to the starter?

If it is, it looks like you have your fuse links on the WRONG side or post of the solenoid.

This would be causing your symptoms.

A Better picture of the solenoid and battery connections could be of help.

Hope this helps.
Truck: 1981 F-150 Explorer / Engine: 300-6 California MCU Feedback System / Trans: T-18 - 4 speed / 2.75 Ford Rear Axle Open Diff.
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Re: Electrical issue.

Matt D
In reply to this post by Ray Cecil
I took a wire brush to the area, washers/screws, etc. Before I took the solenoid off, the truck would randomly try to turn over without the key. (Scary when your under the hood) I'm going to inspect all my cables, but they are relatively new.
86 F150 EFI .302
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Re: Electrical issue.

Matt D
In reply to this post by Matt D
Red (closest to battery) good to battery. Black goes to starter. I'll try the other way.
86 F150 EFI .302
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Re: Electrical issue.

mat in tn
this will solve the issue im certain
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Re: Electrical issue.

Matt D
In reply to this post by 81-F150-Explorer
I switched the cables, still no power. I switched them back though because it was hard to manipulate the wires the other way. I'm getting 12.2v to the solenoid. I know I'm getting 12.2 on the battery, but I still think maybe the battery could be the issue? I'm sure I liked some cells having that ignition stuck for a while.
86 F150 EFI .302
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Re: Electrical issue.

81-F150-Explorer
From the original picture,

You need to switch the fuse links (The smaller wire eyelets) connected to the black cable lug, and switch those fuse links to the Red cable Lug, without moving the larger cables around.  The Fuse links need to be on the same lug as the Red Cable.

The fuse links need 12V constant battery power, an the way they are hooked up in the original picture, they are on the wrong side of the solenoid.
Truck: 1981 F-150 Explorer / Engine: 300-6 California MCU Feedback System / Trans: T-18 - 4 speed / 2.75 Ford Rear Axle Open Diff.
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Re: Electrical issue.

ArdWrknTrk
Administrator
Agreed!
You don't need to swap the big cables, you need to put all the fuse links on the stud with the battery cable.




 Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake.
Too much other stuff to mention.
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Re: Electrical issue.

Ray Cecil
Thanks guys, Matt said he had to go to a business party, and will get back to this tomorrow.

Hopefully having them switched around didn't blow any fuses.
1988 F250 Supercab Longbed 7.3 IDI, C6, 1356, GEARVENDORS, 4.10 Sterling with autolocker

1986 F150 302, C6, 9" 2.75, Wood Flatbed


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Re: Electrical issue.

Matt D
In reply to this post by 81-F150-Explorer
That did it! I'm really not sure why six Sigma allowed me to be an industrial Electrician for two years. Haha. I owe you one bud.
86 F150 EFI .302
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Re: Electrical issue.

Ray Cecil
But it still runs like dog turds though, right?

Matt said it dies at idle, and he will get back at it next weekend.

I know he cleaned the throttle body and IAC. I'm pretty sure he hasn't touched the timing. So....I'm thinking possible MAP, TPS, TPI module, distributor issue, vacuum leak.

Matt, I'd look and listen for a vacuum leak first, since that should be easy to find and fix.
1988 F250 Supercab Longbed 7.3 IDI, C6, 1356, GEARVENDORS, 4.10 Sterling with autolocker

1986 F150 302, C6, 9" 2.75, Wood Flatbed


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Re: Electrical issue.

81-F150-Explorer
In reply to this post by Matt D
Just "Pay" it forward to the next guy/gal that might need your help next time.

I'm just glad I can help.
Truck: 1981 F-150 Explorer / Engine: 300-6 California MCU Feedback System / Trans: T-18 - 4 speed / 2.75 Ford Rear Axle Open Diff.