Double check cheap distributors

I bought a Cardone 842893 distributor to replace a worn distributor (timing was jumping around)

The new distributor worked fine, a month later I noticed the ground wire was hanging loose. The distributor was still within the return window so I got a replacement and guess what it was bad out of box with the ground wire hanging loose !!



They used the thinnest stranded wire possible ever which fails at the stress concentration



Anyway I didn’t want to return it again because I’m sure this failure would be sure to happen. For now I’ve spliced another wire that runs into the body and grounds itself



The ground wire may not be critical but it can definitely affect how it runs as I imagine it reduces noise in the magnetic pickup signal

Something to keep eyes on when buying new cheap distributors

If anyone knows a good distributor that they have luck with let me know.

The ground wire IS critical.
It's the only ground in the DuraSpark system

OK glad to know I took it seriously!

With it being the only ground, this is really sloppy cost cutting by the manufacturer. All they had to do was match the wire strand strength of the reference distributor they copied.

I wonder if I should try LMC's

Ever since Cardone got bought they are the bottom of the barrel.

interesting since I replaced one in my flareside with a Cardone I had in stock just three weeks ago. fingers crossed.

Make sure that duraspark black wire has connectivity to battery ground. I suppose it wouldn't hurt to add an extra ground on that wire. The distributor itself is always grounded through the engine block.

The clamp and block are plenty.

Remember, you're switching a transistor...

Understood. I was saying in Matt's case if he was doubtful of the ground wire integrity to the clamp on the cheapo Cardone, he can add an external ground on that black wire close to the module itself as a backup, speaking off... it seems like a big waste to source ground all the way from the distributor when they just needed a ground strap from the module... and wait the module housing should be grounded already right at the metal fender on my 78 bronco ?

The module is screwed to a plastic fender.....

Yes on the bullnose, but on the dent side its metal baby !!

Sad thing is that's what I mostly sell. That and WAI Global. I've not been impressed with Cardone. Scotty informed me that on the points models, the breaker cam thing (can't remember the exact name right now) is not made to original specs and therefore you can't use a Pertronix module on one. Now, Cardone remanned units appear ok. I have one now and it works fine (so far). But, as I have a Pertronix module in it, I'm not using the original wiring, so I can't speak to that.

Thanks for that feedback. Wires are my only complaint so far. 2/2 failures out of box is just not acceptable.

Even worse was when I called their customer service and they wanted me to deal with Amazon for warranty/troubleshooting !

LCD.....

Just curious, is there some serious rebuild option out there, for distributors?

Maybe it would be more reliable to have an OEM rebuild than a new cheap replacement…

The more I read about such “new” disappointing replacement equipment, the more I am questioning myself about possible quality rebuild options.

You can get components:.bushes, gears, pickups, springs...
But you can't get a new harness with the odd 'grommet' molded on, nor new slotted advance plates or reluctor wheels.

If you read Scotties recurve instructions you want to change the slot and be incredibly careful with the reluctor.

I was going to toss the old motorcraft distributor, but I'm saving it now for a potential rebuild. The harness on it is SOLID. The only issue on it was the distributor bearing was shot, it sounded like a Jet engine and the timing was jumping around.

The other issue was that the reluctor was rubbing the magnetic pickup, not sure if thats an easy thing to fix.

If the bushings are replaced it won't rub.
You need to set the distance when you tighten it into the advance plate. (I think I used an index card?)

Scotties Duraspark recurve instructions will show you how to R&R it, but not what curve it needs.
Re: slot size and which springs....
Like I've said it's a Bronco, not a Mustang. And I have no idea the gearing, but assume a 8 or 10L slot width and all in by 3k.
The instructions will have you weld up the narrower slot or bush the pin with a piece of hobby brass tube.

https://www.reincarnation-automotive.com/Duraspark_distributor_recurve_instructions_index.html

https://www.reincarnation-automotive.com/Duraspark_distributor_recurve_instructions_page-2.html

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And that is why I'd rather spend $150 and have him do it right, on a Sun machine, than scrape around for parts and guess at what I'm going to end up with.

It's a blessing to have someone as knowledgeable as him still in business.

Unfortunately the nice Allen machine I had at Preston ended up in the scrap bin. I had gotten it from the people who bought Preston when they were closing it. The distributor clamp was frozen, the double threaded screw (one end RH the other LH) was stuck in the aluminum jaws. I had disassembled the unit far enough the get the clamp off and look at the electronics as it was built when electronic ignition systems were rare.

Plan was fix the clamp and figure out a way to trigger the electronics from various systems (Ford, Chrysler, GM and AMC).

It was at a friend's shop in Suffolk VA, under the bench, partially disassembled. He, maybe one or more of his brothers, decided it was junk and scrapped it.

That machine was bought over a Sun for two reasons, cost and max rpm. It would spin a distributor to 5,000 rpm = to 10,000 engine rpm.

OK i'll replace the bushing. And try to understand what's in that link  

I'm hoping the Cardone will last a bit, before I need to recondition the old Motorcraft one.