help with door seal

So put new door seals on both doors driver side, door closes fin passenger side will not close all the way  top is close but from window down sticks out a lot ,fenders are off and so were doors for paining tried adjustment but got me stumped

It is latching?
You've got adjustment with the hinges (cab and door) as well as the latch. Sounds like it's the door side of the bottom hinge that's out of whack but because they all work together, it could be a combination.
New door seals take time to take conform and allow easy door closure so it's not uncommon to have to play with the latch.

A couple photos front and rear may help.

How is the gap between the door and the B pillar looking? Similar to the drivers side?
If you remove the striker do the door and cab body lines match up?

Others that do more body work than myself will have some good tips but when doing mine I lined up the
 body lines and gaps without the striker first. Then I installed the striker so it would latch but not caring about the in-out gap. From the inside of the door, through the latch, I loosened the striker and had someone push on the door until it was lined up. At that point I tightened it down.

with the striker removed the door still won't close flush

Does the bottom stick out past the rocker the whole length?

no
 just by the striker almost half way

before i put weather strip on door it shut flush without it

This was even after painting and reinstalling the door?
I was going to say that the top hinge may be too far in causing the door to be twisted but if the only change between it being flush and not is the weatherstripping then that would lead me back to it being stiff, new rubber.

Will have to see what others think. If you can get a photo added that might be helpful.

Everyone that installs new seals has the same problem, doors hard to close and / or stick out a little.

I would adjust the latch post so the door will close tight and let it sit this way for a bit, might take a month.
Then move the post in a little so the bottom does not stick out as much for a bit more time and repeat.

You have to give the seals time to "squish" so the door will fit right.
Then again I did not build a show truck so what if the door stuck out a little.
Mine have been in about a year and a half and I think I can just now maybe move the post in a little.
My left door is pretty good but the right I have to slam hard to get it to latch all the way and the side that sticks out a little.

You might also try moving the lip in some that the seal fits on. This would give more space between door & seal and may not push the door out as much. No I have not tried this on mine as I dont care the door sticks out a little - Its a driver not a show truck LOL
Good luck
Dave ----

if you look at my last picts on the project page you see without door and with door closed but no seal  after seal will not close has the gap from key down ill try and get picts were in the middle of corn and soy beans may be a few days

Same issue - the doors do not go in all the way.   I had door panels out at the time, so I adjusted my strikers to work with the new seals through the latch.   Takes proper sized star bit and some extensions.  But gets the door double latched with the seals in place.   Will need adjusting later.  The seals are working great - no wind noise.  But doors stick out.  I can live with it on mine for now.  

When I bought the truck, someone in its past had wrapped the posts with a LOT of duct tape til the strikers worked?  Idk.   But I have removed all that and adjusted them.  Still don't have the plastic sleeves, but the later posts with the bail on them.  What do the plastic sleeves do, anyway?

Doors still stick out a month later.  Driver is pretty easy to shut now.  

Passenger door still takes some effort, since it hasn't been used as much.   And slamming it has made my speaker wires come loose I think.  Getting some static.  May have to re-evaluate telling my son to slam it.  He really goes to town on that.  I always leave at least one window cracked to help alleviate the air cushion.

Don't these Bullnose trucks have vents or drains in the doors?
Good idea to leave a window cracked.
Even with the louvers in a Bullnose door I blew my windshield off its seal.

I do wonder sometimes when I see people making new water shields and taping them in all around, where the air is going to go.
I suppose those who have kick vents open won't run into this.

Back on topic: My door gaskets took quite a while before they relaxed enough for the doors to close properly.
I think the foam is either denser or thicker than factory.