Wiring mods on Brutus

Will have more.

This first one is a module that will turn the headlights on when the trucks ignition is in run and the wiper is in high or low or delay.  It will not turn on the lights if the ignition is in accessories.    I will have pics of the modules installed in the truck

Dome light delay.  After the driver door is closed the inside lights will stay lit for about 30 seconds.
If the engine is started or the key is turned to accessories, the delay is canceled.  This only works on the driver door.

Digital speedometer removed form an 80's Lincoln town car.  Original instrument cluster from the truck is put in a box and stored away.  Got a second one online

The first pic is the back, before any mods were done, then the second is after the mod

I'll have pics of the wire harness's on saturday when we pull the truck out to do the exhaust and ac work.  It's to dark under the carport

TFI module relocation
The box next to it turns the windshield wipers on for 4 swipes when the washer button is pressed

Very nice work!

Nice work indeed! If you could, I would like more information on the remoted TFI as mine is still on the distributer and has failed a few times in the most inopertune times...........so much so that I carry a spare in the glove box along with the tool.

Steve, you always cary a spare anyway, didnt duraspark teach us that in the 70's

A tfi module has alot of electronics in it and they get hot, heat is electronics enemy.  So what does ford do? Listen to Mazda and put on the hottest part of the engine other then the exhaust.

While i made my own.  I gutted a tfi module and soldered wires to each pin and then ran wires to a heat sink that had the tfi module mounted on it. I made the connector on the tfi module out of pc7.  I just took terminals and stuck them in pc7 and then filed it down so it looked nicier and it fit.
they do have relocation harness's on the internet with everything you need.  and we will be buying another tfi module to keep in the gloove box so you can just plug it in should this remote tfi module fail ( probably in 3 lanes of traffic with 18 wheelers going by 75 mph)  so at least you have plug and play to get you home. Although i dont forsee any issues really, it runs very cool on the heat sink.  and these modules were built to withstand alot of heat, but not a distributer for goodness sake.

here is a link for a relocation kit  make sure you get the right one, some tfi modules have only 1 connector others have 2.

http://www.mccullyracingmotors.com/index_files/tfikits.htm


if you need any other help, feel free to ask

Oooh 😍
That project box in the first pic takes me back to the early '70's Radioshack.

I've been around McCully before.
Stuffing a 5.0 in a Miata makes an animal little gymkana or hill climb car.

Fat Foxx also makes relocation kits with heatsink.

They also sell 3G wiring.

They are radio shack boxes way back when we used to just pick them up whenever we'd be there, always have a use for them.  Man i miss radio shack.  There's another one under the hood

I miss the old 'Shack, where I could pick up components and my battery card was always punched full of holes.

The later version of a failed phone store with $35 hdmi cords.... not so much. 😞

I think the cuecat era, when they were trying to tie a paper catalog to an online presence was the beginning of their downfall.

I did have a Sinclair Z81 (with cassette memory!)  

Oh, those naive days before the internet.

But I DID hack those Cuecat's hard!

Alot of the boxes are re-used.  Dont know if you read the bio on brutus, but when it was new, Nick made the truck start by itself, windows up and down and lock and unlock via remote control.  2 or so years before it was offered on anything.  I'm not really sure if one could say he invented it or not.     This is alot of the reason the truck needs new wireing, when all the stuff was removed there ended up being to many splices in the harness's and the wires ended up corroded over the years.

Jim, tomorrow when i pull the truck out to start working on the exhaust, i'm going to get in the truck and take good detailed pics of the harness's. and i'll point out where and what to do for your sub.  i need a bit more info though.  is your radio factory?  if so, send me a pic of it.  if not, what is it, and does it have a sub output or line outputs etc.

Factory premium sound stereo.   We had to find one from a Lincoln to get the faceplate, we ended up using the radio and brutus original radio is in a box.  We needed the Lincoln radio because it has a fader.  That was removed and the bluetooth microphone is installed in that location.  The module is installed inside the radio and we now have true AM-FM-Cassette-Bluetooth..  it's not a hang on module, it's incorporated into the preamplifier inside the radio and sounds much better then those hang on modules, tell you the truth, it sounds better then the new ones.

It's a Sony dxs-gs80, and I was mistaken it is 45W a side.

Great, thanks Jim.  I'll get back to you on what to do

Jim, give me the make and model of your sub, if you dont have it, how is the audio connected?  RCA or amp output?

Wow!  That's excellent work!  

I, too, miss the old Shack.  Even in my home town of 15,000 people we had one, and I was a frequent visitor.  Used many, many of those project boxes, including on my CB750 to strobe the headlight to serve as a daytime running light.

I'm still in VT and it's still in the box back in Connecticut.
I do remember thinking about how it would work together, but that was months ago before everything got upended.

I'll have to get back to you.
And, thank you for your help!