Wiring Harness

So there's this problem. LMC no longer sells the 28 circuit wiring harness, truck did have cruise, a/c, air pump, etc..It still has power windows. Can I use the 21 circuit harness? Does anyone have an unmelted fuse block?

thanks

Kurt

I may have what you need, or can at least will work. Let me look in my parts collection.

thanks

appreciate you taking the time

Just looking at the Painless 21 circuit universal harness on their site, it does not include circuits for those things you listed.

Here's the 28 Circuit for $379.99

I have a later truck fuse box that I disassembled. I can see if I can dig up the parts and reassemble it. I also have some Chrysler 16 circuit ones if you are not trying for a restoration. The Chrysler ones have numbers next to the fuses and take the same style as the Ford ones.

Hi, Kurt.

I have the fuse block off my 1985 Ford Bronco XLT. It had cruise control, power windows and locks etc. I have just completed a re-wire with he Painless 28 circuit wiring. I can mail you this block if you need it. It is missing one of the “ears” for bolting/screwing to the firewall.

William

That would be awesome. How/where did you find the painless one? LMC has it on the backorder from hell.

I ordered it from LMC.

Painless has it listed on their website for sell.

https://www.painlessperformance.com/wc/10204

It is built for GM vehicles, so some modifications/terminals are needed to adapt it to the Fords. Overall seemed to be a decent kit with good instructions.

I can send this fuse panel if you PM me your address.

William

All it takes is complaint (lesson from ex-wife)....

LMC has the 28 circuit one available again. I really appreciate the offer, but I'm in this truck for the long haul, so I guess I'll put in the Painless one. Is it really painless? Any tips?

I had experience with a Painless kit, on a 1955 Dodge pickup. Owner wanted to keep as much of it Mopar as possible so, a mildly built 360 and a Torqueflite 727. He did use a Ford 9" rear.

First mistake, he used a MustangII front suspension, the Dodge 360 engine weighs in around the 351M/400 level so it was pushing the limits of the Pinto based suspension (Crown Victoria would have been much better).

He bought a Painless kit, I don't remember how many circuits, also bought one of their steering columns. He started by mounting the fuse box all the way up on the left side near the top on the firewall. End result, wires barely reached the ignition switch. Moral of the story, lay it out and plan the wiring before you start.

Biggest issue on our trucks is the way Ford wired them. My 1977 had plugs where the front and chassis harnesses went through the firewall, our trucks are wired with a continuous harness that starts at the right headlight and battery, goes through the firewall under the HVAC case, crosses over to the left, branching to HVAC controls, radio, gauges, steering column, ignition switch, light switch, wiper switch, clutch safety switch or a bypass plug, then through the left side of the firewall to the power stud, ignition system or connections for EFI then to the left side headlight.

This makes for a royal pain when trying to work on things. If you want to pull the front sheet metal, AKA "doghouse", you have to remove every underhood connection and roll the harness sides up out of the way. I changed Darth to 1996 harnesses which have a 76 way front end to cab plug and a 24 way chassis to cab plug. The HVAC underhood part is still run through the right side, but up top instead of underneath.

85lebaront2 wrote

I had experience with a Painless kit, on a 1955 Dodge pickup. Owner wanted to keep as much of it Mopar as possible so, a mildly built 360 and a Torqueflite 727. He did use a Ford 9" rear.

First mistake, he used a MustangII front suspension, the Dodge 360 engine weighs in around the 351M/400 level so it was pushing the limits of the Pinto based suspension (Crown Victoria would have been much better).

He bought a Painless kit, I don't remember how many circuits, also bought one of their steering columns. He started by mounting the fuse box all the way up on the left side near the top on the firewall. End result, wires barely reached the ignition switch. Moral of the story, lay it out and plan the wiring before you start.

Biggest issue on our trucks is the way Ford wired them. My 1977 had plugs where the front and chassis harnesses went through the firewall, our trucks are wired with a continuous harness that starts at the right headlight and battery, goes through the firewall under the HVAC case, crosses over to the left, branching to HVAC controls, radio, gauges, steering column, ignition switch, light switch, wiper switch, clutch safety switch or a bypass plug, then through the left side of the firewall to the power stud, ignition system or connections for EFI then to the left side headlight.

This makes for a royal pain when trying to work on things. If you want to pull the front sheet metal, AKA "doghouse", you have to remove every underhood connection and roll the harness sides up out of the way. I changed Darth to 1996 harnesses which have a 76 way front end to cab plug and a 24 way chassis to cab plug. The HVAC underhood part is still run through the right side, but up top instead of underneath.

when you say you used a 1996 harness, am i assuming that you used that when rewiring your 85? if thats true, how compatible is it to use that, im looking to redo mine, its a shitshow, 1980 base, 1985 cab

Darth is a 1986 F350, crew cab DRW truck. The whole process was a bit involved.

See if this takes you to the write up: https://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/Darth-Vader-tp4897.html