Winter project

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Winter project

Fordboy300
Hey guys,  it's been a while since I've posted on here even though I visit the site and try and read up on what's going on.  So here what's going on  this winter I plan on pulling the engine on my dad 86 f250 and re gaskets the whole engine since it leaks like no tomorrow even when it sits.  Now I have a couple questions what's the best way to attack this engine (351w H.O.) Its been a while since my first engine pulling like 7 years ago when I pulled the engine on my 86 f150 but it's a 300 six with a manual trans and I remember the trans fighting us it did not want to be separated lol.  



I also wanted to add a aftermarket intake with a new 4bbl carb for my dad. What's the best intake manifold for this engine to make it breath better then stock. 
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Re: Winter project

Gary Lewis
Administrator
I once did a pan gasket on a 351W while it was in the truck.  Never again.  Another guy I knew said he'd pour gasoline on his truck and light it before he ever did it again.  But your mileage may vary.  

So I would recommend pulling the engine, placing it on a stand, and doing the job standing up instead of on your back with dirty oil not only dripping in your face, but getting all over the gasket.  And that's especially true if you are changing out the intake.

Speaking of the intake, I like the Edelbrock Performer.  And stick an Eddy 1406 on top of that and you have a good combo.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow
Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/ZF5/3.55's, D60 w/Ox locker in front & 10.25 Spicer/Trutrac in back, & EEC-V MAF/SEFI

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Re: Winter project

Fordboy300
Now to sperate the engine from the trans.  The flywheel has bolts on it correct?  

The edelbrock 2181 right I have a lead on one that is used but looks to be in good condition.  
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Re: Winter project

Gary Lewis
Administrator
Yes, that's the non-EGR version.

The flywheel, aka flex plate, bolts to the engine.  The torque converter bolts to the flywheel.  The transmission's input shaft goes into the torque converter with splines.

Best way is to pull the inspection plate at the bottom of the transmission in front, and turn the engine over with a 15/16" socket on the crank and find the 4 studs that come through the flywheel from the torque converter and remove their nuts, one at a time.  Then, with the rear driveshaft out and the rear transmission crossmember removed, pull the transmission/engine bolts and pull the transmission back, supporting it on a transmission jack.  Then you can pull the engine.

However, it is easy for the torque converter to stay with the flywheel if you pull the tranny back at a slight angle, and when it disconnects from the tranny there will be a shower of ATF.  So if it was me I'd drain both the transmission and the torque converter before doing this.  The torque converter has a pipe plug you'll see as you are looking for the nuts that fasten it to the flywheel.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow
Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/ZF5/3.55's, D60 w/Ox locker in front & 10.25 Spicer/Trutrac in back, & EEC-V MAF/SEFI

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Re: Winter project

FuzzFace2
Gary Lewis wrote
Yes, that's the non-EGR version.

The flywheel, aka flex plate, bolts to the engine.  The torque converter bolts to the flywheel.  The transmission's input shaft goes into the torque converter with splines.

Best way is to pull the inspection plate at the bottom of the transmission in front, and turn the engine over with a 15/16" socket on the crank and find the 4 studs that come through the flywheel from the torque converter and remove their nuts, one at a time.  Then, with the rear driveshaft out and the rear transmission crossmember removed, pull the transmission/engine bolts and pull the transmission back, supporting it on a transmission jack.  Then you can pull the engine.

However, it is easy for the torque converter to stay with the flywheel if you pull the tranny back at a slight angle, and when it disconnects from the tranny there will be a shower of ATF.  So if it was me I'd drain both the transmission and the torque converter before doing this.  The torque converter has a pipe plug you'll see as you are looking for the nuts that fasten it to the flywheel.
There should not be a need to remove the driveshaft or cross member and slide the trany back, it just more work that is not needed.

Yes remove the inspection cover and remove the 4 nuts that hold the converter to the flex plate / flywheel and you should be able to push the converter back a little so you know it is free from the flex plate. Before you pull the motor support the trany with a floor jack with wood across the pad to protect the trany pan.

You DO NOT want to keep the converter bolted to the motor / flex plate and try and remove the converter with the motor!
You can hurt the converter and / or input shafts & splines and you will hurt the converter seal.

I can also tell you, you CAAN NOT install the motor with the converter bolted to the flex plate as there is no way to get the input splines to line up in the converter.
When you install a converter to the trany you have to turn the converter while pushing it in and it will click 2 time to seat it. You can also take a flat edge across the bell housing and the face of the converter should be inside about 2 inches.
If the converter is not seated all the way and you bolt the motor up you can force the input shafts into the converter and break both.

You may want to mark the flex plate and converter so when you put them back together you can line up the marks to help it go together. I know some converters / flex plate holes only line up 1 way and why I say this.
Dave ----
81 F100 flare side 300 six/T18 project
http://cars.grantskingdom1.com/index.php/1980-Ford-F100?page=1
81 F100 style side 300 six/SROD parts truck
http://cars.grantskingdom1.com/index.php/1981-Ford-F100
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Re: Winter project

Fordboy300
In reply to this post by Fordboy300
Thanks boys.  I'll keep this in mind when I do that.  I havent started the process but I get nervous just thinking about it!!  

Any input on shorty headers.  I found some on Ebay.  They dont specify if they are for our trucks or not but they look great!  

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F362140085268

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Re: Winter project

Gary Lewis
Administrator
In reply to this post by FuzzFace2
Dave - I think I like your approach better than mine.  
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow
Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/ZF5/3.55's, D60 w/Ox locker in front & 10.25 Spicer/Trutrac in back, & EEC-V MAF/SEFI

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Re: Winter project

ArdWrknTrk
Administrator
In reply to this post by Fordboy300
I'm kind of envious of all the header options for Windsors.  

Those look very nice, and opening up a few bolt holes with a die grinder is no big deal.

You may have to use a smaller starter.
You don't mention if your father's 250 is 4x4, but where the drivers side collector dumps is critical if it is.

Edit; if you're going to get rid of EGR and all emissions you should remember to block the crossover ports in the back of the heads with 5/8-11 shortened bolts while the engine is out.
It will be much easier on the stand.
 Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with an Edelbrock 1826 and Performer intake.
Too much other stuff to mention.
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Re: Winter project

Fordboy300
I'm sorry bud.  But yeah dad's f250 is 4x4.  I was also thinking of trying out the fox mustang stock headers first.
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Re: Winter project

ArdWrknTrk
Administrator
We'll be sure the LH pipe will clear the front driveshaft before you bolt them up.
 Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with an Edelbrock 1826 and Performer intake.
Too much other stuff to mention.