Tool Trailer for Handyman Service

2020 is going to be my year when I finally start my own business. We've got $ in the bank as a cushion finally, and I would be disappointed in myself if I never tried being my own boss.

The Rig will be little Blue 82 Flareside pulling a single axle 10' or 12' long enclosed trailer.

Hints, tips, tow caps, locks, safety, etc. Any advice from the crowd? I will mostly be driving around town, rarely going over 60mph.

I am thinking an automatic with the 300 six. Upgrade to an offy intake and a fitech fuel injection setup.

I plan on this being a 6 month long project until launch.

I need to rebuild front end and get the steering dialed in so its safe to haul.

Ray Cecil wrote

The Rig will be little Blue 82 Flareside pulling a single axle 10' or 12' long enclosed trailer.

Have you given any thought to just buying a used cargo van to use strictly for work? I'm just wondering if it makes any more sense or would it be too expensive. That or an old pickup with a Spacecap on it?

I dunno, I'd have a hard time using a classic Flareside as a work truck. You may not set out to use the bed on the truck, but it could happen, and you wouldn't want to hurt those fiberglass fenders or bed, etc.

Just playing devil's advocate Ray, and curious about other options...if there are any;).

For what you'll spend modding the '82 for more power, maybe you could buy an old 3/4 ton with an 8 ft box? And, who wouldn't want more trucks??...lol.

My wife will kill me if I buy another vehicle. The flareside will do.

Options on automatics? Will the c6 in that bronco bolt up to the 300? I think I asked this question before, but cant remember the answer.

I've read this several times, but haven't figured out for sure what will be in the trailer.  Nor therefore how heavy the trailer might be.

As for the C6, a tranny from a Windsor will bolt to a 300.  But you'll need a flexplate for the 300.

Gary, the thread title says it all. Handyman service. So, anything from a hammer, to a tool chest, to a power washer, ladder....

So, a 302 is considered a windsor? Forgive me for my ignorance.

Yes, handyman.  But the handymen I've seen don't usually go around with trailers.  Just pickups.  So I'm still struggling to understand how heavy the trailer is and if the truck can handle it.

Yes, a 255, 302, and 351W are Windsors.

Gary Lewis wrote

Yes, handyman.  But the handymen I've seen don't usually go around with trailers.  Just pickups.  So I'm still struggling to understand how heavy the trailer is and if the truck can handle it.

I see some contractors around here using enclosed utility trailers, mainly in the heat pump installation business, and sometimes carpentry. It allows the contractor or sole proprietor to buy whatever pickup they want for personal use, and then the truck does double duty as a work truck through the week. Otherwise they all use vans. When phone company or cable company unloads a bunch of old white vans they end up as handyman vehicles!

Ray will correct me if I'm wrong as I assume he already looked into this, but I'm guessing 10-12 ft single axle trailers are in the 1000 lb range when empty. I'm also guessing that day to day cargo weight would be 250-500 lbs, with a 1000 lbs being an occasional peak weight? Ray? Ya know, if you were to stick a 750 lb lawn tractor in one with a few other tools, you'd hit 2000 lbs total pretty easily.

Gary Lewis wrote

Yes, a 255, 302, and 351W are Windsors.

On a side note to the Windsors...there is also the rare 1982-1983 only 3.8 V6, I believe it also had the Windsor bolt pattern? I only know this because I was reading recently about the 4.2 V6 that replaced the 300/6 in 1997. It apparently also had the SBF bolt pattern until it's last year in 2008. Interesting little pushrod engine that was used right along side all of the modular Triton engines. It was like a small small block. There was a guy on Facebook last week that had purchased a 1997 F150 transmission to install in an early Bullnose with a 3.8 V6, a swap I didn't know was possible.

I wonder what other later 1997-2008 transmissions would work? There are some of them that you can buy stand alone electronic controllers for.

As for the C6 from the Bronco being swapped into Ray's 1982, yes be aware of the flexplate differences. A 300/6 auto trans flexplate would be required, and I assume the crossmember from the Bronco.

Might also need to come up with a kickdown rod for a 300/6, or was that done by cable?

Also need an auto trans steering column...unless the one can be swapped over from the Bronco? I believe I've seen Bricknose columns in Bullnose trucks, although the steering wheel looks a little out of place.

I will probably start with deck, fence and exterior siding repair, stain, paint, drywall repair.

Yes, 10 to 12 foot cargo trailer.

So the max tow weight is 2000lbs for an automatic flareside!? That seems pretty low.

Ray Cecil wrote

 So the max tow weight is 2000lbs for an automatic flareside!? That seems pretty low.

You have the 4spd w/OD now, right?

An NP435 swap might be what you're looking for...that's the work transmission if there ever was one.

Rembrant wrote

Ray Cecil wrote

 So the max tow weight is 2000lbs for an automatic flareside!? That seems pretty low.

You have the 4spd w/OD now, right?

An NP435 swap might be what you're looking for...that's the work transmission if there ever was one.

That's why I've been asking what would be in the trailer.  The tow ratings on the 4spd OD are really low.  But with a C6 the ratings are much higher.  And, while the NP435 ratings are low from Ford that's just 'cause it is a manual.  But I'm with Cory - that's a work tranny and with its low first gear you can move anything.

Use the 1986 Towing Guide tab here: Documentation/Specifications/Towing.

Alright. So I have options. I need to increase towing capacity.

1. Buy a donor F250 with an Auto, 4x4, 300 six and Fuel Injection.

2. Upgrade intake to Offy, and fitech Fuel Injection, and add C6.

3. LS swap.

I am leaning towards option #2. Would be the easiest and probably the cheapest. I have a bud who can take the c6 and go through it for me to ensure its in good shape.

Maybe an add a leaf in the rear would help?

Im bidding on ebay for an offenhauser dual port. If I win that, I will get the fitech. Once that is installed, I will get the automatic figured out.

Ray,

Will the Dual Port [dual plane] intake work with the FI unit? The reason I ask is that there is an Offenhauser C manifold which is open and a 2 or 4 barrel carburetor can be oriented any direction. With the Dual Port, a 4 barrel carburetor is used and the primaries are nearest the valve cover. When others have used a 2 barrel with the Dual Port intake, an open 1" thick spacer has been used.

I dont see why it wouldnt work. AFAIK, there arent primaries and secondaries on the Fitech. I believe all 4 valves open simultaneously.

If I understand correctly, the dual port delivers air and fuel on 1 plane with a carbs primaries. This reduces running volume and increases velocity, improving torque. When WOT occurs and the secondaries open, the 2nd plane delivers additional fuel and air.

If the fitech works the way I think it does, and open all 4 valve at the same time, it effectively makes a dual port open, because both planes are delivering fuel and air all the time.

I will dig into the mechanics of the fitech a little more.

1986F150Six wrote

Ray,

Will the Dual Port [dual plane] intake work with the FI unit? The reason I ask is that there is an Offenhauser C manifold which is open and a 2 or 4 barrel carburetor can be oriented any direction. With the Dual Port, a 4 barrel carburetor is used and the primaries are nearest the valve cover. When others have used a 2 barrel with the Dual Port intake, an open 1" thick spacer has been used.

That was my thinking also on the DP intake, you want the open one.

BTW I don't think you will get that much more power from the 300 by going with the Offy, headers / EFI exh manifolds and EFI unit over the stock carb & EFI manifolds but that's me.
I love the way mine pulls with the stock carb, EFI manifolds and T18 transmission, its not a 460 but will get the job done. Its a back up to pull my car trailer.

Now I can see why you may want to go with the C6, you have it, can get it gone thru and ready to use cheap and it ups the tow cap of your truck.
We know the weak link right now is that SROD and some have hinted to go with the NP4xx? but if me and was going to swap to a stick I would go with the ZF5.
You get the low first gear for starting off with heavy loads, just like my T18 or a T19, but you get over drive. Only thing I don't know is how hard it will be to find a ZF5 with 4x4 trim?

The C6 will need a kick down rod and what I seen posted can be hard to find the parts to work with a factory 300 and then you want to go EFI too? I don't know if a cable setup will work or not? Maybe ask your buddy?

I know you said the wife would kill you but I thing a F250 long bed would be the way to go.
You can put 8' ply wood / sheet rock in the bed laying down, longer boards for the gate down. Add a rack and you can then carry longer boards and ladders, and if you want still pull a trailer.
I know a van will not be a 4x4 but all tools etc. can be locked up inside out of weather and sight.
Will carry long boards and add a rack up top even longer boards than the P/U could carry.

How often would you be using the 4x4 when working? No work outside in snow on decks or siding. Anything inside I would think could wait till the roads are clear.
4x4 P/U you could add a plow and do plowing in the winter but that adds wear to the truck.
My head is spinning so I know yours is.
Good luck
Dave ----

FuzzFace2 wrote

Only thing I don't know is how hard it will be to find a ZF5 with 4x4 trim?

Finding a 4x4 ZF5 with the SBF bellhousing is the hard part. It is my understanding that they are somewhat rare and decent used ones are expensive.

Reamer has one in his Flareside...I'm sure he could tell us what they're worth.

I thought the 460/diesel ZF5 was much more common, but maybe Gary can comment on that.

Plus, with Ray's truck being an '82, there'd be a fair amount of extras required to install a hydraulic clutch transmission.

Still, anything is possible...

On a later Bull with factory hydraulic clutch, it's an easier swap for sure.

I want an auto not only for extra towing, but for the ease of operation.

There is no way I wont see a performance increase with an offy and 4 barrel FI setup over the stock carb. I put a header on it and saw significant increase.

I want a trailer because I just want to use the truck. I dont want to drive around dads silverado anymore, it needs a full go through.

If I may request, please lets not get into a carb vs FI debate here....thats a dead horse.

I was thinking if just starting out on this new "path" why spend the money on EFI when you have a working carb and for what return?
Same with the trucks, was looking at what "I" think would work best and why.
You doing dump runs with this trailer or is the junk being thrown in the bed of the truck for the dump run?

Sometimes someone will see something and a light bulb will go off and say "why did I not think of that"
Dave ----

Rembrant wrote

FuzzFace2 wrote

Only thing I don't know is how hard it will be to find a ZF5 with 4x4 trim?

Finding a 4x4 ZF5 with the SBF bellhousing is the hard part. It is my understanding that they are somewhat rare and decent used ones are expensive.

Reamer has one in his Flareside...I'm sure he could tell us what they're worth.

I thought the 460/diesel ZF5 was much more common, but maybe Gary can comment on that.

Plus, with Ray's truck being an '82, there'd be a fair amount of extras required to install a hydraulic clutch transmission.

Still, anything is possible...

On a later Bull with factory hydraulic clutch, it's an easier swap for sure.

Mine being an 81 and 4x2 I would need to do the same work for the clutch and I am starting to look for the needed parts for the SB ZF5 swap as I don't want to rebuild the T18 in my truck.
Dave ----

FuzzFace2 wrote

Mine being an 81 and 4x2 I would need to do the same work for the clutch and I am starting to look for the needed parts for the SB ZF5 swap as I don't want to rebuild the T18 in my truck.
Dave ----

Dave,

I have a pedal set out of a hydraulic manual trans truck that you are welcome to have. The cost of shipping them might put them out of reach, but if you have any trouble finding a set let me know. I think you can do a PM through the forum.