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Timing Gear Set Help

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fords4life

Timing Gear Set Help

So....since I plan to pull the motor and do the full re-seal I am going to replace the timing set at the same time. I know very little about them so I'm looking for a little feedback. What I have found is I have a few options, single non-roller, link belt, or double roller. My concern with the double roller is that most look like there is a possibility of clearance issues. I don't want to deal with that at all. I also have stock motor with no plans to do anything to it and the double roller seems overkill. That leaves me with single non-roller and link belt. Out of those two, the link belt seems to be the better option. Thoughts?

Cloye's Link-Belt
Comp Cams High Energy

1986 F-150 SC 2wd 4spd 302EFI Base Model all OEM motor/trans/emissions equipment.

ArdWrknTrk

Re: Timing Gear Set Help

Administrator

Link belt (Hy-Vo) type chains tend to be quieter, especially when run over nylon cam gears.

I don't see ANY point in a non-roller chain.
...Now you have all the pressure and wear at one tiny point tangent to the pin.
And (of course) they can't roll, to spread the wear around, while nearly eliminating friction.

That said, I have had a double roller set installed since the plastic crap shredded itself and completely packed my sump pickup -sometime around 1990-

Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake.
Too much other stuff to mention.

ArdWrknTrk

Re: Timing Gear Set Help

Administrator

In reply to this post by fords4life

fords4life wrote

So... My concern with the double roller is that most look like there is a possibility of clearance issues. I don't want to deal with that at all. I also have stock motor with no plans to do anything to it and the double roller seems overkill.

Is it ever overkill to eliminate frictional losses and wear?
When you have such limited power, why turn a bunch of it into heat and iron filings?

Few people need an infinite indexing timing set in their pickup.
Us 460 guys can just use the factory stock timing set from a later EFI engine and get a "straight up" double roller set for low cost.
Even the basic DR Cloyes set is somewhere around $40

(I know this doesn't apply to you.....)
Just make SURE that if you have a mechanical fuel pump, you have the right cam gear to drive it.

Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake.
Too much other stuff to mention.

Gary Lewis

Re: Timing Gear Set Help

Administrator

In reply to this post by fords4life

I agree with Jim - double roller. While it may seem overkill, they last longer than the other options. Do it once and do it right.

And I don't think there are clearance issues. Any of them should fit just fine.

As for the fuel pump, since you have EFI you should have an electric pump, so no worries.

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow
Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/ZF5/3.55's, D60 w/Ox locker & 10.25 Sterling/Trutrac, Blue Top & Borgeson, & EEC-V MAF/SEFI

85lebaront2

Re: Timing Gear Set Help

Administrator

I will further endorse using a double roller chain setup, and I believe if you look at later OEM sets you will find Ford went to them on everything except the 4.9L (300) which has gear drive.

Bill AKA "LOBO" Profile

"Getting old is inevitable, growing up is optional" Darth Vader 1986 F350 460 converted to MAF/SEFI, E4OD 12X3 1/2 rear brakes, traction loc 3:55 gear, 160 amp 3G alternator Wife's 2011 Flex Limited Daily Driver 2009 Flex Limited with factory tow package Project car 1986 Chrysler LeBaron convertible 2.2L Turbo II, modified A413

ArdWrknTrk

Re: Timing Gear Set Help

Administrator

In reply to this post by Gary Lewis

Gary Lewis wrote

As for the fuel pump, since you have EFI you should have an electric pump, so no worries.

I mentioned it because those of us who do have a mechanical pump need the eccentric boss machined and a hole for the drive pin.
You can get the wrong set, and you will be WAY in there when you figure it out.

Damhik!
Never let some counter 'associate' substitute numbers on you.

Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake.
Too much other stuff to mention.

Gary Lewis

Re: Timing Gear Set Help

Administrator

I won't ask. I don't have to. Gotta be frustrating! But glad you mentioned it.

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Steve83

Re: Timing Gear Set Help

Banned User

In reply to this post by ArdWrknTrk

Definitely double roller, which was OE on later years.

ArdWrknTrk wrote

...a mechanical pump need the eccentric boss machined and a hole for the drive pin.

The 302ci fuel pump eccentric fits onto any 302/5.0 cam gear. Nothing is machined differently. The key fits into the gear's key hole.

fords4life

Re: Timing Gear Set Help

I totally get the friction losses. The point that was shying me away from the double rollers was reading in multiple places where a lot of applications tend to machine the block for a thrust washer or torrington bearing. I will go double roller. Looks like the Cloyes Street True Roller has slightly bigger pins than the heavy duty set. Probably get this one ordered....Cloyes Street True Roller

1986 F-150 SC 2wd 4spd 302EFI Base Model all OEM motor/trans/emissions equipment.