This is crazy oil change now truck won't start?

1985 F150 302 EFI. I started her this morning, backed out of the driveway, parked and let the engine warm up. shut her off, drained the oil, changed the filter, refilled the oil and now she spins over but won't start. Any ideas?

I'd start looking at wires; maybe something got bumped and knocked loose.  Coil wire, etc.  

I think it's a fuel issue. I ate a sandwich, then took a nap, (don't laugh, I'm 70). When I got up, I when out, she fired up and I put her back in the driveway. When I purchased her, I drove her 89 miles, stopped at an Advanced Auto. I left advanced Auto, got about 200 feet and she started running out of fuel, (I had 3/4 of a tank of gas). She died about 1 mile from the house. My wife drug us home and she wouldn't start. 2 hours later, she started and I put her in the driveway. I need to start by changing the fuel filter which I understand is the attached picture. I also read the bowl can be unscrewed with a strap wrench, but I'll wait for folks here to tell me the real deal.

Looks like someone's already been in there with a pair of channel locks....

Yes you can change the filter. Best to cam on the 'floor' of the reservoir so you don't crack the housing.

As far as the pumps, the EEC triggers the fuel pump for a couple of seconds to prime.
It then waits for a PIP signal from the distributor turning to close the relay again.
From there power goes through the inertia switch to both the high pressure pump at the reservoir on the frame rail and the selector switch, on to the frame mounted valve, then to the in-tank pump being used.

Here's the diagram and troubleshooting.

A couple of things, the 1985-86 5.0L EFI trucks I have worked on, the engine wiring was in terrible condition, bare areas, cracked insulation etc. The second item, the entire system grounds at an open to the underhood air plug attached the battery negative post. I have seen the plug so green with corrosion it was nearly an open circuit.

Not sure what you mean by: Best to cam on the 'floor' of the reservoir so you don't crack the housing.
The info you attached is much appreciated, thank you.

Thank you for the heads up. My ole gal seems to be taken care of. No rot in the frame, suspension or bed. Wiring seems to be in good shape except I need to apply new electrical tape in a few areas. I'll trace this down:  The second item, the entire system grounds at an open to the under-hood air plug attached the battery negative post. I have seen the plug so green with corrosion it was nearly an open circuit.

CDLong wrote

Not sure what you mean by: Best to cam on the 'floor' of the reservoir so you don't crack the housing.
The info you attached is much appreciated, thank you.

A strap wrench works by pinching the loose end of the strap under a lever.
If you lever on the side of the 37 year old plastic housing you're likely to break it,
Certainly the person before you needed a lot of bite with their pliers.
If you grabbed it tight, is an aluminum soda pop can stronger in the middle or on the bottom?

A strap wrench works by pinching the loose end of the strap under a lever.
If you lever on the side of the 37 year old plastic housing you're likely to break it,
Certainly the person before you needed a lot of bite with their pliers.
If you grabbed it tight, is an aluminum soda pop can stronger in the middle or on the bottom?

I got ya now. I'm glad you brought this up 'cause I sure woulda broke the housing.

Remember, only very early production '85 Rangers and F-Series had a filter in there. It's possible, but truly not likely.
Also, are you sure that it's a fuel issue? Your symptoms are very much the same as a failing TFI module.

My son's 1986 F150 had the filter in it. He found that out when his would act like it was starving for fuel (it was) and the Bosch high pressure pump would start making a horrible racket trying to get fuel.

Now, it might be like other changes, different plants changed as they exhausted the supply on-hand. His truck was built in Norfolk.