The right oil

Guys - Is the 300 c.i. six a "flat tappet" engine, requiring a ZDDP additive?  If so, what do you recommend?

When I bought the truck, the first thing I did was change the oil, using the same stuff I put in my Studebakers and Rambler; VR1.

This came with my new camshaft

I'm using the Rotella

good advice. I too am using Rotella t in my flat hydraulic engines. although there is no telling how many years my 300 has gotten store brand since I built it in 2002. but I'm learning more everyday about failures from oil and metallurgy. a friend's 5.8 build we installed last month has major "issues". lifter failure is assumed but autopsy to follow.

I used Rotella T5 [10W30] for many years and be sure to use a good filter [i.e. Motorcraft FL1A].

Thanks, Guys!

I've read many discussions on various 'old car' forums over modern zddp oil content.  The idea being companies that produce the stuff have reduced the content due to what happens in catalytic converters.  The companies will acknowledge this, but say there's still enough of the good stuff in there to protect the older engines.  If Rotella still works, that's good enough for me!

1986F150Six wrote

I used Rotella T5 [10W30] for many years and be sure to use a good filter [i.e. Motorcraft FL1A].

I use T4 in 10w40 I think it is.
I have used NAPA gold filters in the pass but using a Wixx filter now.
Dave ----

I run supertech synthetic 5W30 in my 300, motorcraft filter. My understanding is the high ZDDP is mainly needed when breaking in a new cam... Once broken in, not so much.

typically, yes. once the cam break in creates the finish it will live with and mates it to the lifters, being oiled should be enough. but why not use the better oil if you can.

Youll need a dedicated break in oil and then afterwards run a oil that has decently high zinc levels.

I have heard great things about the Driven break in oil which is what I am using on my 302 build in 10w40 weight but I have a roller.  After that I will be running plain valvoline 10w30 till around the 8,000 mi mark then switch to valvoline full synthetic.

For flat tappets if I am running a new production flat tappet I would run VR1 post break in as it has the highest zinc levels and is what I run in my 292 Y8 as it is a solid lift flat tappet.  My old 302 in my truck I ran plain pennzoil first then plain Valvoline oil but the cam was built from a blank back in the late 80s early 90s before the blanks started cheaping out on hardness.

Define better. Modern synthetics have superior cold performance. If I could get 0w-30 something other than expensive race oils, I'd run it. Most wear occurs during warm up due to the oil being cold and thick. Not to mention thinner warm oil results in less drag and less work for the oil pump, which improves efficiency. Finally, modern synthetics can be run on a longer oil change interval (less sludge formation). The only downside: synthetics are more sensitive to oil leaks; they won't cause new leaks, but they can make existing ones worse. My 300 leaks pretty bad from the valve and lifter covers... After a rebuild! Now I know why a PO Indian Headed the old gaskets (which were also leaking, and were a real pain to remove!).

Also, break in oils (or oil with break in additive mixed in) are supposed to be less lubricating... that's what allows the rings and cylinders to break in. Once broken in, that's *not* what you want!

all very good points. that is the reason why there are so many different products on the market. one size certainly does not fit all. engine design, bearing surface, bearing size, journal diameter and oil clearance all come into consideration. I do prefer to use the thinnest oil for the job for the same reasons you mention. faster response to start up being major. lately there have been many reports of lifter failure, both flat and roller. I currently have one lifter in a 5.0/roller that refuses to pump up fully. still in line to be replaced.   in the meantime, I can always rely on my 300.