Starter issues

I recently picked up a 1984 F150 XLT with a 302 and automatic overdrive transmission. Before I start, I want to say I searched this forum and a few others for a solution. When I first got the truck, a previous owner had installed a push button start on it. I have since removed that, installed a new ignition switch and got it properly aligned, a new battery, a new Motorcraft solenoid, and a new PMGR starter from Ford. The reason I undid the push button start is it drained two batteries before I took it out. The problem I'm having is the starter doesn't disengage when releasing the key from the start position. With the new parts, where should I look next?

Likely the Motorcraft relay is wired wrong (feedback loop) or is welded shut (try hitting it with a screwdriver handle or stick) when the starter stays on.

To see if it's a feedback loop, pull the bl/r trigger wire attached to the (S) terminal.

If that stops it, you have wires crossed somewhere.

Wait....
You said PMGR.  

You absolutely can't jumper the solenoid from the power.
Read our tutorial under 'Bullnose Upgrades'
From the drop-down menu.

Yes it's a PMGR starter from Ford Racing (part number M-11000-B51) comes with new starter wires that are straight forward to install. Solenoid was brand new in box, but I could have gotten a bad one.

Well, if you "upgraded" to a PMGR and now you have problems, go walk through the tutorial. 💡

I've explained this too many times (I don't mean to sound grumpy)
It's right there, spelled out step by step.
Gary gets a little loquacious and into the weeds, but he can't help himself, no matter...

Okay, so I read the "how-to" provide by Gary, followed the instructions that came with the new starter, and watched two Youtube install videos for the starter. Turn the key and the starter still doesn't disengage. Can anyone else please help me?

Either you have a bum solenoid or the fender relay is mis-wired.

When the starter won't shut off, what happened when you pulled the (S) wire of the relay?

to put in my words having not read the tutorial mentioned it is simply this. the pgmr starter has its own solenoid/relay mounted on it so it no longer needs the fender mounted relay to carry the heavy load. now the fender mounted solenoid/relay is only used as a control relay to trigger the starter mounted relay. the large battery to starter red wire "electrically" goes directly to the large terminal on the starter, by way of using the first post (battery side) of the fender relay. the small red control wire goes to the off side post of the relay by itself and the other end goes to the small wire/post on the starter itself. the tiny red/blue wire from the harness goes to the small s terminal of the relay to trigger it from the key switch.any other wires which are connected to the relay are typically for constant power and need to be on the battery side post also. any other wires on the on the off side is now incorrect.  

You CANNOT jumper the solenoid on the starter.

My testing (documented here) shows 40A to pull and 13A to hold the PMGR.

I just read the instructions here

https://www.garysgaragemahal.com/pmgr-starter-wiring.html

I don't know much about the PMGR starter but at a high level it looks like there are 2 relays now. Fender mounted relay's only job is to pull-in the relay on the PMGR starter.

I can tell something is stuck.

Can you confirm what happens
- When battery is disconnected and re-connected and ignition switch is off ? Is the starter motor automatically engaged ? If not.. clearly the off position of ignition switch is working properly
- When you move to run, does the starter motor run ? If not, then so far so good
- When you move to start, looks like the starter motor is getting engaged, but unable to release when you move back to run

I agree with the suggestion above to disconnect the 'S' terminal on the fender mounted relay when this happens...

- if the starter disengages then you know something is wrong with the ignition key wiring,
- if the starter continues to engage then you can go after the fender mounted relay or the relay on the PMGR starter or wiring of the PMGR starter

The starter has a solenoid.
It pulls the drive gear into engagement.
Not just an electrical connection like a relay.

If we're going to troubleshoot, let's be succinct and exacting.

None of us are there looking at it, and the OP has not provided photos or an -as built-in schematic.
So it's pin the tail on the donkey at this point....  

Not to point fingers...

but I was just following the terminology in the tutorial linked in my reply above

"relay (aka solenoid)"
"since a PMGR starter has its own relay"

but I like pin the tail on the donkey

I didn't write it, Gary did!

I have a very good vocabulary and I'm pretty concise and succinct when it comes to technical things.
That's the only reason I'm here!  😉

I'm sure you play this game with your customers every day.  😉

not at all. that would make me a bit more than a donkey.

🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣

Edit :donkey and burro are polite terms for an Ass.

I pulled the new starter off and put the old one back on. Changed the wiring back to stock. There was nothing wrong with the old starter, I just know they can be finicky sometimes. Sorry I didn't post any pictures or draw up a schematic of what I had done. In the future I won't ask any questions, I'll just take it to a shop.

Thanks for the update!!!

We want your questions!

We're here to help.
If there's something wrong with your new Ford Racing starter we can help diagnose it and make it right.  💡

Amongst the 'elders' here we have Gary who started this whole thing and scanned more factory documents than you can imagine.

Bill, otherwise known by his website "Old School Hotrodder" who owned a carburetor and tune-up shop (Preston Carburetor) and did metallurgical testing at Newport News shipyard before he retired.

Myrll, who sold parts from a Ford dealership for decades... back when these trucks were in the showroom.

Me? I'm just an autistic geek who has disassembled more 250/350/450 trucks than you can count on fingers and toes.
I built and raced motorcycles and offshore power boats back in the 80's.

Plus.... Matt from Tennessee (North Carolina now) who owns a vintage restoration shop specializing in FoMoCo vehicles.

You can't ask for a more knowledgeable and helpful bunch of folks.