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Salan's 1980 Something

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salans7

Re: Salan's 1980 Something

FuzzFace2 wrote

See someone else crazy enough to change the firewall

Its what you do to turn a non-AC firewall into a AC firewall.

Mine is also a cab off frame rebuild but no where near like Gary is doing, I could not drive the truck is I put that much work into it and looked that nice.
Dave ----

That brings up an interesting point that I haven't considered prior, A/C cabs vs. non-A/C cabs. My 86 was an A/C cab, however I don't intend to run A/C because I have no interest in rebuilding the HVAC system, or trying to make it work. None of my dad's numerous dentside-aeronose trucks ever had working A/C and we got along just fine without it. Heck, even in my Ranger I rarely use it unless I feel like the heat is just unbearable. I'll have to cross that bridge once I'm there because finding a non-A/C cab is unlikely.

85lebaront2

Re: Salan's 1980 Something

Administrator

FWIW, the last cab with AC vs non AC was the 1986, 1987 up if non-AC still had the same firewall, the vent mode used the AC ducting and the evaporator core was left out and a smaller housing fitted in place of it.

Bill AKA "LOBO" Profile

"Getting old is inevitable, growing up is optional" Darth Vader 1986 F350 460 converted to MAF/SEFI, E4OD 12X3 1/2 rear brakes, traction loc 3:55 gear, 160 amp 3G alternator Wife's 2011 Flex Limited Daily Driver 2009 Flex Limited with factory tow package Project car 1986 Chrysler LeBaron convertible 2.2L Turbo II, modified A413

FuzzFace2

Re: Salan's 1980 Something

85lebaront2 wrote

FWIW, the last cab with AC vs non AC was the 1986, 1987 up if non-AC still had the same firewall, the vent mode used the AC ducting and the evaporator core was left out and a smaller housing fitted in place of it.

I was going to say that and you beat me to it.
I did not know this when I got into the 80 - 86 trucks.
I was not so lucky as both my trucks were 81 models, project is a flare side the parts truck a style side long bed with duel tanks.

The parts truck is where the rear "duel" tank system came from that I put into the flare side.
Fuel doors are different between the 2 models but my brother sent me a flare side filler door section from a flare side to graft onto my fender to look factory stock.
The AC system, AC & tank dash controls and all wiring also came from the parts truck, again to look factory stock.

When you have a full truck for parts, swapping parts to build the truck the way you want is easy.
Dave ----

Dave G.
81 F100 flare side 300 six / AA OD / NP435 / 2.75 gear
http://cars.grantskingdom1.com/index.php/1980-Ford-F100?page=1
81 F100 style side 300 six/SROD parts truck -RIP
http://cars.grantskingdom1.com/index.php/1981-Ford-F100

salans7

Re: Salan's 1980 Something

This post was updated on .

So I've spent the last week or so getting all of the crud, grease, and overspray off of the frame. I'm not even going to let myself come close to what Gary has done, so the chassis is pretty much ready for new paint.

Don't nag me too hard on the jack stands and blocks. It's the only way I can get the frame high enough to paint underneath and not get covered in overspray.

Gary Lewis

Re: Salan's 1980 Something

Administrator

You aren't in any danger using the concrete blocks that way, or with that little weight on it. It is just when people try to put the whole vehicle up on concrete blocks that danger signs pop up.

And I understand getting the frame up where you can work on it, so you use whatever is available - safely.

It looks like you are using red-oxide primer. What are you going to paint the frame with as a top coat?

On the rear axle, you can probably figure out if the L/S will fit a full-floater by working through the parts lists. They are on the page on Driveline/Axles & Differentials. Start on the Applications tab, get the parts list #'s, and then go to the Parts Lists tab to see what you can find.

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow
Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/ZF5/3.55's, D60 w/Ox locker & 10.25 Sterling/Trutrac, Blue Top & Borgeson, & EEC-V MAF/SEFI

FuzzFace2

Re: Salan's 1980 Something

I used plastic horses.
I de-greased and hand wire brushed the frame then sprayed it with a acid to kill any rust.

After a day or 2 for the acid to work I hosed off the frame, used shop air to blow it dry and 1 more day to dry in the sun before I painted it. I used TSC black oil base paint with hardener in a old school spray gun.

Dave ----

salans7

Re: Salan's 1980 Something

In reply to this post by Gary Lewis

Gary Lewis wrote

It looks like you are using red-oxide primer. What are you going to paint the frame with as a top coat?

Probably just your run of the mill black automotive chassis paint. There's no need for a heavy duty paint like POR 15 or any other heavy duty chassis paint since most of this frame's original paint is still intact and rust isn't a huge concern of mine. The red oxide primer was only used in the areas that were most corroded, and a couple of other trouble areas.

PetesPonies

Re: Salan's 1980 Something

Red oxide lacquer is such an old technology. It's porous, protects about nothing. A lot better choices out there today.

Pete's Ponies
Mustang RUSToration & Performance

1982 F100 Flareside
1983 Bronco

salans7

Re: Salan's 1980 Something

This post was updated on .

Old truck, old technology. Just the way I like it.

In other news, a major update. This morning I was browsing Facebook's Marketplace, and happened upon an ad that read "Dana Axles: Ford, Chevy, SRW, DRW". Intrigued, I clicked the ad and quickly learned that the seller was driving down from Vermont with a flatbed truck full of Dana 60 axles, and would be taking I95 south to Daytona. Since I'm only two hours away from Daytona, I decided to message him. We worked out a deal for an SRW D60 from an aeronose Ford, and now I can check one more thing off of my list.

Yes, I know ball joints aren't as strong as kingpins and that a kingpin axle is preferred. It's not my forte to intentionally sink my trucks into situations that I can't escape in 4x2, so a ball joint axle will work fine for my purposes.

The axle is a little crusty, but that's to be expected from anything up north. Almost everything is there, it's got plenty of meat left on the passenger lower u-bolt plate, and it came with the driver's side u-bolt plate as well. Panhard bar mount is also intact. It's complete hub to hub, and the only things that are really missing are the calipers, dust shields, and the upper shock mounts. All in all I paid $700 for it, which is waaaaayyyyy less than what I have been finding elsewhere for far worse and/or incomplete axles.

salans7

Re: Salan's 1980 Something

Just a small update.

Hi Gary and Dad's Truck.

Gary Lewis

Re: Salan's 1980 Something

Administrator

Cool! I like the color.

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

salans7

Re: Salan's 1980 Something

This post was updated on .

I figured you would. Didn't really occur to me until I cleaned it up how close it was. Unfortunately it's not the original wimbledon white that this truck left the assembly line as, but I'm not in any hurry to change it back, it's a nice color for sure. I will post update pictures another day since the cab is already sitting on the frame.

Gary Lewis

Re: Salan's 1980 Something

Administrator

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Ford F834

Re: Salan's 1980 Something

Administrator

In reply to this post by salans7

Are you going for the white on the finished product?

SHORT BED 4-DOOR DIESEL: 1986 F350 4x4 under construction-- 7.3 IDIT ZF5+GVOD

STRAIGHT SIX 4X4: 1981 F150 2wd to 4x4-- 300 I6 close ratio diesel T19, hydroboost brakes, Saginaw steering

BIG F: 1995 F-Superduty under construction— converting to 6.9L IDI diesel ZF5+DNE2

salans7

Re: Salan's 1980 Something

Honestly, paint is at the very end of my list, and I'll be driving this truck multi-colored for quite some time before paint happens. And I may never get around to painting it. I really don't know at this point.

salans7

Re: Salan's 1980 Something

This post was updated on .

Well here's the "better" picture I mentioned. Got the cab back on the frame, and it's starting to look like a truck again.

Also have the bullnose dash 75% mounted. Need to make the upper mounts solid and then the dash will be ready for permanent installation.

Gary Lewis

Re: Salan's 1980 Something

Administrator

You are really making progress, Shaun.

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Rembrant

Re: Salan's 1980 Something

Yes sir, looking good. I'd love to be that far on my 85.

1994 F150 4x2 Flareside. 5.0 w/MAF, 4R70W, stock.
1984 F150 4X2 Flareside. Mild 302 w/ 5spd. Sold.
1980 F150 4X4 Flareside. 300i6 w/ 5spd. Sold in 2021.
1980 F100 4X2 Flareside. 351w/2bbl w/NP435. Sold in 1995

salans7

Re: Salan's 1980 Something

Thanks guys. I'm determined to get this one done, that's for sure. Next course of action is to get the truck sitting on all four wheels. From there I can start working on the drivetrain.

FuzzFace2

Re: Salan's 1980 Something

Before you mount the dash you may want to mount the firewall pad & HVAC box.
Trying to work around & behind the dash can be a PITA.
Dave ----

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