Rattling Doors - Fixed! (Mostly)

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Rattling Doors - Fixed! (Mostly)

JMUBullnose
Greetings all!

For about a year I've been dealing with my doors rattling after closing or not fully latching because the striker bushings were old and broke off. Yesterday afternoon I replaced the bushings with this kit:
Ford Door Striker Bushings

Worked like a charm on the driver side door, had to tweak the striker position a little bit but pretty much tightened it down in the factory install position. Passenger door was a similar exercise, however it feels like the door latch is smaller on that side or the bushing that I grabbed out of the box may be slightly thicker - door latch seems to stick on it a bit. Has anyone encountered this before? More and more I think about it, the more likely it seems that it's the bushing and not the latch but I figured I'd ask around here as well.

Cheers!

1984 F-150, 302 CID (5.0 L) Windsor V8, 2 BBL carb, power windows added, remote entry added. AC. Automatic Transmission.
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Re: Rattling Doors - Fixed! (Mostly)

Gary Lewis
Administrator
I've not used that kit, but I do know that if the striker doesn't line up well with the latch it won't release easily.  If it is either high or low such that it raises or lowers the door when it closes it puts a lot of drag on things, and doesn't release well.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow
Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/ZF5/3.55's, D60 w/Ox locker & 10.25 Sterling/Trutrac, Blue Top & Borgeson, & EEC-V MAF/SEFI

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Re: Rattling Doors - Fixed! (Mostly)

reamer
The latch anchor IS smaller than the door "hook" by design, so it will not bind. the door needs to move slightly independent of the cab. Real tight, and it will stress the cab wall and door. you need "slop" the "slop" is now take up with fresh-rubber door gaskets.
New rubber will:
Let the door move (over bumps, uneven terrain ect) and expand and contract keeping the door seal complete and stop the rattling.
If you have the door closing tight with no help from new rubber, that's not so good.
1986 F-150 Flareside 4x4, 351, 4-v, ZF5 speed. AC, Cruise, Tilt, Slider, Digital clock, Radio, Lariat seat, Pwr doors/locks
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Re: Rattling Doors - Fixed! (Mostly)

JMUBullnose
Reamer -  Understood. I'll clarify - the doors were loose prior to new rubber.

I'm wondering if the bushing I used on the passenger door is slightly thicker than the one I used on the driver door. Driver door works like a dream now, no rattle, closes firmly like it should. Passenger door is closing firm as well and latching - it is not real tight up against cab. However - it feels like the hook is having a slightly harder time closing around the striker with the new bushing - leading me to think I should try swapping out the bushing.

However - I am wondering - are they different size latch anchors depending on door? I'm guessing not.
1984 F-150, 302 CID (5.0 L) Windsor V8, 2 BBL carb, power windows added, remote entry added. AC. Automatic Transmission.
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Re: Rattling Doors - Fixed! (Mostly)

reamer
probably not, can you mic the bushings?
1986 F-150 Flareside 4x4, 351, 4-v, ZF5 speed. AC, Cruise, Tilt, Slider, Digital clock, Radio, Lariat seat, Pwr doors/locks
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Re: Rattling Doors - Fixed! (Mostly)

grumpin
I found with new strikers on mine that the passenger door "hung" a little when opening it.

I assumed (I know) that it was from the driver's door being used more. After awhile it stopped doing it. Sorry I can't give you a time frame, just didn't pay that close attention.

I replaced the whole striker on both sides and did the driver's hinge bushings at the same time, it turned out great.
Dane
1986 F250HD SC XLT Lariat 4x4 460 C6-Sold
1992 Bronco XLT 4x4 351W E4OD
1998 GMC Sierra SLE K1500 350 4L60E
Arizona