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Radiator Question - not typical

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FuzzFace2

Radiator Question - not typical

Radiator is brass / copper.
It has the typical "white crust" on the upper tubes.
I have not seen any flow out of the tubes, but do feel the lower ones have flow (hot) and why the question.

We know the flush products you can get, either 1 part or the 2 part ones, don't do crap on cleaning the crust.
What I am thinking of doing is pull the radiator laying flat with the cap on and filling it vinegar and letting it sit for a few days.
Being a mild acid I think it would work on the white crust and break it down and then I could flush it out.
If it did not work after a few days I could do it longer and try flushing again.

Or do you have something else you would use and if so what is it?
and no I don't want to take it to a radiator shop, or know of one, to have them tell me it's no good and try and sell me one.

So what you say?
Thanks a head of time.
Dave ----

Dave G.
81 F100 flare side 300 six / AA OD / NP435 / 2.75 gear
http://cars.grantskingdom1.com/index.php/1980-Ford-F100?page=1
81 F100 style side 300 six/SROD parts truck -RIP
http://cars.grantskingdom1.com/index.php/1981-Ford-F100

grumpin

Re: Radiator Question - not typical

Sounds like a good plan, in research I have done, some suggest vinegar.

I think that's a good idea because it's mild as you said.

I always use distilled water now, didn't when I was younger and always in a hurry! (i.e ignorant!)

Dane
1986 F250HD SC XLT Lariat 4x4 460 C6-Sold
1992 Bronco XLT 4x4 351W E4OD
1998 GMC Sierra SLE K1500 350 4L60E
Arizona

Ford F834

Re: Radiator Question - not typical

Administrator

In reply to this post by FuzzFace2

If your shop won’t do what you are asking (un-solder, rod out, re-solder) then consider a different shop. The problem is this once common practice may now cost more than a new unit. It certainly won’t hurt to try vinegar, and there are stronger “cleaning strength” bottles available, but I wouldn’t hold my breath that it will open up clogged tubes.

SHORT BED 4-DOOR DIESEL: 1986 F350 4x4 under construction-- 7.3 IDIT ZF5+GVOD

STRAIGHT SIX 4X4: 1981 F150 2wd to 4x4-- 300 I6 close ratio diesel T19, hydroboost brakes, Saginaw steering

BIG F: 1995 F-Superduty under construction— converting to 6.9L IDI diesel ZF5+DNE2

PetesPonies

Re: Radiator Question - not typical

This post was updated on .

In reply to this post by FuzzFace2

If you can find oxalic acid . . it will clean
your radiator.

Pete's Ponies
Mustang RUSToration & Performance

1982 F100 Flareside
1983 Bronco

Rembrant

Re: Radiator Question - not typical

In reply to this post by Ford F834

Ford F834 wrote

The problem is this once common practice may now cost more than a new unit.

Ain't that the truth. I had no idea until recently. I was checking around with radiator shops to get mine cleaned up and painted, etc. My rad was the original 1984 unit, and the local shops wanted $400 to rehab it. (I think a brand new one was around $200).

One guy told me that the only people paying to have them redone anymore are the classic car guys that want the 100% period correct radiator.

In any case, the replacement turned out to be a decent unit, or at least it appeared to be. It's all metal, same as my original. Only difference was that it had actual ports (plugged) for trans cooler lines, and my original did not.

1994 F150 4x2 Flareside. 5.0 w/MAF, 4R70W, stock.
1984 F150 4X2 Flareside. Mild 302 w/ 5spd. Sold.
1980 F150 4X4 Flareside. 300i6 w/ 5spd. Sold in 2021.
1980 F100 4X2 Flareside. 351w/2bbl w/NP435. Sold in 1995

FuzzFace2

Re: Radiator Question - not typical

In reply to this post by Ford F834

Ford F834 wrote

If your shop won’t do what you are asking (un-solder, rod out, re-solder) then consider a different shop. The problem is this once common practice may now cost more than a new unit. It certainly won’t hurt to try vinegar, and there are stronger “cleaning strength” bottles available, but I wouldn’t hold my breath that it will open up clogged tubes.

Its not that the shop will not do it I don't have one or know of a shop around here as I am some what new to the area and never needed to look for one.

The other thing is most shops are only open M-F 9-5 and when you are out the door 4am and not out of work till they are long closed. Truck driver so cant take an hour to run out either.

Up north the radiator shop I used was like you said, cost more to rod then for new and why I replace a radiator in a car 2 times because of low flow.

I got nothing to lose but a few $ trying the vinegar.
Thanks,
Dave ----

Gary Lewis

Re: Radiator Question - not typical

Administrator

Give it a try and let us know. How much vinegar will it take?

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow
Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/ZF5/3.55's, D60 w/Ox locker & 10.25 Sterling/Trutrac, Blue Top & Borgeson, & EEC-V MAF/SEFI

FuzzFace2

Re: Radiator Question - not typical

In reply to this post by PetesPonies

PetesPonies wrote

If you can find oxalic acid . . it will cleaning your radiator.

I Google Oxalic Acid and it looks like I can get it thru Amazon.
Will see if the wife can order some.

The other thing that came up was TSP? I have used it to wash cement floors before painting but I cant see it doing any cleaning of the crust inside the radiator.

Will let everyone know how it goes.
Dave ----

FuzzFace2

Re: Radiator Question - not typical

In reply to this post by Gary Lewis

Gary Lewis wrote

Give it a try and let us know. How much vinegar will it take?

Will do.
As a start I picked up 2 gallons.
I have also been tossing around using a small pump and back flow it from the bottom outlet up and out the top outlet.

Stay tune
Dave ----

Gary Lewis

Re: Radiator Question - not typical

Administrator

A pump would probably help as it would cause flow, and therefore agitation, at the top where you know there are deposits.

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

FuzzFace2

Re: Radiator Question - not typical

Gary Lewis wrote

A pump would probably help as it would cause flow, and therefore agitation, at the top where you know there are deposits.

I will have to take a picture but I pulled the radiator and to keep it safe laid it flat in the bed of the truck.

It took just under a gallon of vinegar to fill it up to the just below the top of the 2 hose outlets.
So far it is not looking like it will do much after being in for 2 hours. I will most likely keep it in for a week or more till I get back out to check & drain it.

I am also going to have wife order the Oxalic Acid thru Amazon and give that a try if the vinegar don't cut it.
Dave ----

Gary Lewis

Re: Radiator Question - not typical

Administrator

I wouldn't think that 2 hours would show any signs of change. But over time and with some agitation it should.

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Whisler

Re: Radiator Question - not typical

I will bet the reaction will take at least a week. Vinegar is only 5 % acetic acid; that is a very low concentration of a very weak acid. Given time it will probably work; set it in the sun to warm up and it will happen faster.

If the vinegar doesn't work to your satisfaction, try citric acid, available where canning supplies are sold (Walmart). A solution of 1/2 tablespoon per quart of water will clean the grunge off of brass in short order. That is how I clean my pistol cases for reloading.

God Bless
Whisler

Frankenstein: 1989 F250 4X4, C-6, Hurst Pro-Matic 2 shifter, carbed '84 351W, Edelbrock manifold, Edlbrock AVS, DS2 ignition, 3G alternator, JBA shorty headers, no cats, dual exhaust with H pipe.

Gary Lewis

Re: Radiator Question - not typical

Administrator

Yes, heat will help a lot. Good point.

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

FuzzFace2

Re: Radiator Question - not typical

Well yesterday it was 98* in the garage and I had both 9' wide doors, a side walk thru door open and 2 box fans going with an outside temp of 91*

Today it was 92* outside, the garage has been closed up so had to be hotter inside the garage.

I will see what I can do of heating it up to help it along.
Dave ----

PetesPonies

Re: Radiator Question - not typical

Oxalic Acid used to be sold as a radiator cleaner. It is also used as a cement cleaner, concrete.

Pete's Ponies
Mustang RUSToration & Performance

1982 F100 Flareside
1983 Bronco

FuzzFace2

Re: Radiator Question - not typical

Little up date.
I checked on it yesterday and saw it had the white stuff sitting at the bottom but still had it at the tubes.
I did take make pick and the white stuff at the tubes and kind of came off.

Because I am lazy it will sit another week before I do anything to it.
Thinking pour out the vinegar (saving the old) and back flush it and see how it looks and go from there.
Dave ----

Gary Lewis

Re: Radiator Question - not typical

Administrator

Another week might be all it needs, especially if it sits out in the sun. And back-flushing is probably a good idea anyway as lots of stuff may be ready to break loose in there.

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

FuzzFace2

Re: Radiator Question - not typical

Update:
It's still soaking been working crazy hours and when I get home being tired and hot out, 90*+ so hotter in the garage.
Then being lazy on the weekend I just left it soaking.

I have also given thought to using CLR if this soaking does not work out but will cross that bridge when I get to it.
Dave ----

Gary Lewis

Re: Radiator Question - not typical

Administrator

No reason to hurry. Just let it work and then rinse it well.

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile