Powder Coat Question?

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Powder Coat Question?

FuzzFace2
For the guys that powder coat (Gary that I know of) how smooth does the part have to be to not show up in the coating?
Does it have to be smooth like if using normal auto spray paint?
What can be used to fill in little imperfections like say stone chips size that would be on the front of a hood?

The 2 bumpers still have some "nicks" and I know they would show up with normal auto paint.
I know what I can use in that case but if I was to have the bumpers coated could I use JB Weld as a glazing putty to fill in the nicks and would it hold up in the oven?

I don't want to do something that would not work with coating. I don't think auto body glazing putty would not hold up to the heat of the oven.

Thanks
Dave ----
Dave G.
81 F100 flare side 300 six / AA OD / NP435 / 2.75 gear
http://cars.grantskingdom1.com/index.php/1980-Ford-F100?page=1
81 F100 style side 300 six/SROD parts truck -RIP
http://cars.grantskingdom1.com/index.php/1981-Ford-F100
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Re: Powder Coat Question?

FuzzFace2
To help the JB Weld package said it  is good to 550*f
Dave ----
Dave G.
81 F100 flare side 300 six / AA OD / NP435 / 2.75 gear
http://cars.grantskingdom1.com/index.php/1980-Ford-F100?page=1
81 F100 style side 300 six/SROD parts truck -RIP
http://cars.grantskingdom1.com/index.php/1981-Ford-F100
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Re: Powder Coat Question?

Gary Lewis
Administrator
The powder puts a fairly uniform coating on the part, so whatever is underneath shows through.

But I've never tried to fill.  I'm not sure how JB Weld would work, but I don't think it would work very well at all.  The reason is that you coat a part with electrostatic attraction.  But I don't believe JB Weld conducts electricity so it won't attract the powder.

That can be overcome by heating the part prior to coating since the powder will stick to a hot surface, but the person doing it has to really know his stuff in order to get a smooth coating.

I'd talk to them and see what they say.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow
Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/ZF5/3.55's, D60 w/Ox locker & 10.25 Sterling/Trutrac, Blue Top & Borgeson, & EEC-V MAF/SEFI

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Re: Powder Coat Question?

FuzzFace2
Gary Lewis wrote
The powder puts a fairly uniform coating on the part, so whatever is underneath shows through.

But I've never tried to fill.  I'm not sure how JB Weld would work, but I don't think it would work very well at all.  The reason is that you coat a part with electrostatic attraction.  But I don't believe JB Weld conducts electricity so it won't attract the powder.

That can be overcome by heating the part prior to coating since the powder will stick to a hot surface, but the person doing it has to really know his stuff in order to get a smooth coating.

I'd talk to them and see what they say.
Thanks for the reply and why I asked before doing it.
Would you think lead solder would be a better way to go?

I will check with the people before any thing is done but thinking the solder might be the way to go.
Thanks again.
Dave ----
Dave G.
81 F100 flare side 300 six / AA OD / NP435 / 2.75 gear
http://cars.grantskingdom1.com/index.php/1980-Ford-F100?page=1
81 F100 style side 300 six/SROD parts truck -RIP
http://cars.grantskingdom1.com/index.php/1981-Ford-F100
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Re: Powder Coat Question?

Gary Lewis
Administrator
You'll have to check what temp they use in their oven.  I take the oven to 425 degrees and then back to 400 for 20 minutes.  But some solders melt at that point.  Here's what Wikipedia says:

Soft solder typically has a melting point range of 90 to 450 °C (190 to 840 °F; 360 to 720 K),[4] and is commonly used in electronics, plumbing, and sheet metal work. Alloys that melt between 180 and 190 °C (360 and 370 °F; 450 and 460 K) are the most commonly used. Soldering performed using alloys with a melting point above 450 °C (840 °F; 720 K) is called "hard soldering", "silver soldering", or brazing.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow
Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/ZF5/3.55's, D60 w/Ox locker & 10.25 Sterling/Trutrac, Blue Top & Borgeson, & EEC-V MAF/SEFI

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Re: Powder Coat Question?

FuzzFace2
Gary Lewis wrote
You'll have to check what temp they use in their oven.  I take the oven to 425 degrees and then back to 400 for 20 minutes.  But some solders melt at that point.  Here's what Wikipedia says:

Soft solder typically has a melting point range of 90 to 450 °C (190 to 840 °F; 360 to 720 K),[4] and is commonly used in electronics, plumbing, and sheet metal work. Alloys that melt between 180 and 190 °C (360 and 370 °F; 450 and 460 K) are the most commonly used. Soldering performed using alloys with a melting point above 450 °C (840 °F; 720 K) is called "hard soldering", "silver soldering", or brazing.
Man you are just a kill joy
I did think of the melting point.
I really need to talk & show the bumpers to them to see what they have to say
I may end up doing what Pete did on his Ranger and paint them.

I was in Auto Zone to get the JB Weld, I don't have any so for stock, and saw they had rolls of wrap.
I would have gotten a roll but they did not have the size needed in chrome.
I also saw they had a Bur Wood wrap and the package shows a dash done in it.
When I get to that point I may give that a try on the dash parts as mine are looking a little worn.
Dave ----
Dave G.
81 F100 flare side 300 six / AA OD / NP435 / 2.75 gear
http://cars.grantskingdom1.com/index.php/1980-Ford-F100?page=1
81 F100 style side 300 six/SROD parts truck -RIP
http://cars.grantskingdom1.com/index.php/1981-Ford-F100
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Re: Powder Coat Question?

Gary Lewis
Administrator
Yeah, I'm a kill joy.  

But Eastwood says this about their Body Solder: "Spreadable (plastic) range is 428-932 degreesF".  So something like that should work fine.

As for the wrap, I'd like to see the results.  
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow
Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/ZF5/3.55's, D60 w/Ox locker & 10.25 Sterling/Trutrac, Blue Top & Borgeson, & EEC-V MAF/SEFI

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Re: Powder Coat Question?

FuzzFace2
Thanks for the link.
The temp range it can go under looks good for powder coating but will the powder stick to it as it sounds like it is a thermal plastic and not lead.

If so and based on what you said on the powder sticking to it this may not work.
I did post a question with Eastwood asking that.
Dave ----
Dave G.
81 F100 flare side 300 six / AA OD / NP435 / 2.75 gear
http://cars.grantskingdom1.com/index.php/1980-Ford-F100?page=1
81 F100 style side 300 six/SROD parts truck -RIP
http://cars.grantskingdom1.com/index.php/1981-Ford-F100
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Re: Powder Coat Question?

Gary Lewis
Administrator
I missed that bit about it being plastic.  If so, the powder won't stick.  But surely there's a body solder that is metal?
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow
Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/ZF5/3.55's, D60 w/Ox locker & 10.25 Sterling/Trutrac, Blue Top & Borgeson, & EEC-V MAF/SEFI

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Re: Powder Coat Question?

FuzzFace2
Gary Lewis wrote
I missed that bit about it being plastic.  If so, the powder won't stick.  But surely there's a body solder that is metal?
From Eastwood's site:
About Eastwood Basic Lead Free Body Solder Kit

Lead-Free Body Solder is a recent development that is safer and stronger than potentially harmful lead-based body solders. Our lead-free solder clings as well as lead-based on horizontal and vertical surfaces. Spreadable (plastic) range is 428 to 932 degreesF (220 to 505 degreesC); best working range is 535 to 660 degreesF (280 to 350 degreesC). Tensile strength is 9000 psi. Leveling can easily be done by filing or sanding, by hand or power tools, since no lead particles will be dispersed (still, respiratory protection is highly recommended). Propane torch and torch tip are not included (see "Accessories" tab). Soldering torch is not included.

Dave ----
Dave G.
81 F100 flare side 300 six / AA OD / NP435 / 2.75 gear
http://cars.grantskingdom1.com/index.php/1980-Ford-F100?page=1
81 F100 style side 300 six/SROD parts truck -RIP
http://cars.grantskingdom1.com/index.php/1981-Ford-F100
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Re: Powder Coat Question?

FuzzFace2
Here is the answer I got back from Eastwood:

Me: Can you powder coat over the top of an area that has been leaded?

Them: 1 answer
Bob G · 4 hours ago  
 
Powder coating cures at 400° F. Lead has a melting point of 641° F Just make sure that you do not exceed the 400° for 20 Minutes, which is the cure Time and Temp. for our powder.

Not really an answer as I don't know if they / he knows how powder coating works to apply it?
If the description they posted of the lead (plastic) is right and what Gary said how the powder get applied it may not work.

Now re-reading the description I wonder if the "plastic" is a description of the working temp and not the lead it's self? Guess I could call them to get a good answer of "plastic".

Also the $166 (on sale) for this kit is high so not something I want to "try" to see if it works.
Well I have to talk to people on the bumpers & finish and if they need more work give Eastwood a call to see. Don't hold your breath I am in no rush.
Dave ----
Dave G.
81 F100 flare side 300 six / AA OD / NP435 / 2.75 gear
http://cars.grantskingdom1.com/index.php/1980-Ford-F100?page=1
81 F100 style side 300 six/SROD parts truck -RIP
http://cars.grantskingdom1.com/index.php/1981-Ford-F100
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Re: Powder Coat Question?

Gary Lewis
Administrator
Eastwood sells a lot of powder and equipment for powder coating, so I would expect that he knows what he's talking about.

And, the "plastic" in that phrase on the lead does apply to a type of deformation of a solid.  This site says "Slip is the prominent mechanism of plastic deformation in metals. It involves sliding of blocks of crystal over one other along definite crystallographic planes, called slip planes."
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow
Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/ZF5/3.55's, D60 w/Ox locker & 10.25 Sterling/Trutrac, Blue Top & Borgeson, & EEC-V MAF/SEFI

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Re: Powder Coat Question?

Whisler
They are probably referring to the "plastic phase" or spreadable phase temperature of the material not the contents. Fairly common usage in some scientific circles. I think that is what Gary was referring to.
God Bless
Whisler

Frankenstein: 1989 F250 4X4, C-6, Hurst Pro-Matic 2 shifter, carbed '84 351W, Edelbrock manifold, Edlbrock AVS, DS2 ignition, 3G alternator, JBA shorty headers, no cats, dual exhaust with H pipe.
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Re: Powder Coat Question?

FuzzFace2
Thanks guys,
After reading it a few times, I am a little slow on the up take, I came to the same thing.
So once I find what path I go down and how they want the bumpers finished I will look deeper into this if need be.
Dave ----
Dave G.
81 F100 flare side 300 six / AA OD / NP435 / 2.75 gear
http://cars.grantskingdom1.com/index.php/1980-Ford-F100?page=1
81 F100 style side 300 six/SROD parts truck -RIP
http://cars.grantskingdom1.com/index.php/1981-Ford-F100
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Re: Powder Coat Question?

Bruce moose4x4
Fuzz, My powdercoat guy said to use ALL-Metal body filler. I was asking him about doing the whole body. After I repaired the rust.
Bruce aka Moose--1978 F250 LWB Flareside, Dana 60's w/ 4:10's, 460, c6
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Re: Powder Coat Question?

FuzzFace2
moose4x4 wrote
Fuzz, My powdercoat guy said to use ALL-Metal body filler. I was asking him about doing the whole body. After I repaired the rust.
Thanks that is good to know.
I know it is vary hard to sand and has little shelf life.
Think I have a pint can for years now that I did not open that may be garbage now.
Thanks again.
Dave ----
Dave G.
81 F100 flare side 300 six / AA OD / NP435 / 2.75 gear
http://cars.grantskingdom1.com/index.php/1980-Ford-F100?page=1
81 F100 style side 300 six/SROD parts truck -RIP
http://cars.grantskingdom1.com/index.php/1981-Ford-F100
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RE: Powder Coat Question?

Bruce moose4x4

Now, I haven’t tried this, But I am toying with powder coating the whole body on the  truck? Already have the frame, bumpers, and roll bar powder coated. Haven’t decided yet. It will be a while before I get back to this truck.

 

Bruce Scott
Customer Service
Technical Service Dept.
(417)874-7200 ext.28209
[hidden email]
Ozark Automotive/O'Reilly Auto Parts

 

From: FuzzFace2 [via Bullnose Enthusiasts] [mailto:ml+[hidden email]]
Sent: Friday, June 7, 2019 5:47 PM
To: Bruce Scott <[hidden email]>
Subject: Re: Powder Coat Question?

 

moose4x4 wrote

Fuzz, My powdercoat guy said to use ALL-Metal body filler. I was asking him about doing the whole body. After I repaired the rust.

Thanks that is good to know.
I know it is vary hard to sand and has little shelf life.
Think I have a pint can for years now that I did not open that may be garbage now.
Thanks again.
Dave ----

81 F100 flare side 300 six/T18 project
http://cars.grantskingdom1.com/index.php/1980-Ford-F100?page=1
81 F100 style side 300 six/SROD parts truck
http://cars.grantskingdom1.com/index.php/1981-Ford-F100

 


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Bruce aka Moose--1978 F250 LWB Flareside, Dana 60's w/ 4:10's, 460, c6
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Re: Powder Coat Question?

kramttocs
Administrator
In reply to this post by FuzzFace2
Little late to the discussion but anything metal that will fit in my oven off Camano I've coated. And anything too big I've had a local shop do. I had the same question and I was told jb weld would work but it all depends on thickness. As Gary said, if it can't conduct it won't stick although gravity will help out if lucky. So you may have to increase the current on the gun to pull through the jb weld. Same goes with multiple primer coats. Since you're talking about a bumper I assume you are having a dedicated shop do it? If so they will likely have some tricks where you don't have to do a thing but point it out to them.

Let us know what comes of it.
Scott
'Camano' 1986 F250 Supercab XLT Lariat 460/C6
'Chanute' 1980 F350 C&C 400/NP 435 - Gin Pole

But there ain't nothin' wrong with the radio
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RE: Powder Coat Question?

kramttocs
Administrator
In reply to this post by Bruce moose4x4
moose4x4 wrote
Now, I haven't tried this, But I am toying with powder coating the whole body on the  truck? Already have the frame, bumpers, and roll bar powder coated. Haven't decided yet. It will be a while before I get back to this truck.
Do you use Crump or Springfield?
Another powder coating guy I know was talking about doing a kids fenders and the other body panels down the road. He said they looked really slick.

I didn't go into any details on it with him so maybe I am missing something but personally I would leave the body panels in paint. What would you do if you get a chip or scratch in the coating? Getting all the seam sealer out of the cab nooks and crannies and the coating inside the door panels may be a trick not to mention having to make sure you reapply it everywhere after.
If you do go with it, I'd love to hear how it goes and drive by to check it out.
Scott
'Camano' 1986 F250 Supercab XLT Lariat 460/C6
'Chanute' 1980 F350 C&C 400/NP 435 - Gin Pole

But there ain't nothin' wrong with the radio
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RE: Powder Coat Question?

Gary Lewis
Administrator
Amen!  The prep for powder, as you know, is painstaking.  EVERYTHING has to be off.  That would be a chore.  And then there's the inevitable scratch or chip.  Not something I want to do.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow
Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/ZF5/3.55's, D60 w/Ox locker & 10.25 Sterling/Trutrac, Blue Top & Borgeson, & EEC-V MAF/SEFI

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