Please help: right rear brake drum HOT and LOUD

I replaced the entire rear brake assembly both sides including new drums, shoes, springs, brake cylinders etc.  On the right side, I even replaced the axle since it looked suspect.  Everything is new.  After driving a while I notice the brakes start squeaking and it gets more and more noticeable/loud.  After a short drive the rear brake drums are very HOT.  There is no burn brake smell.  The left side is cool.  Here's a photo of what it looks like inside the right with the drum off.  It got so warm the antisieze got pretty runny.  The drum is very easy to remove and is not rubbing on unretracted brake shoes.  I've visually verified the brake cylinders are retracting when letting off the pedal.  The shoes are in their happy place on the backing plate tabs (which are lubricated).  The brake pedal is firm and vehicle stops well.

There is shoe material found (as you can see) inside the drum.  Again, both are new.  I cleaned it up and reinstalled after visually inspecting everything else.  There is no axle grease penetrating.  I'm stumped!!

well.....friction equals heat. So, it must not be releasing fully. Put the wheel back on, jack up the rear. Put it in drive. Let it spin. Have a family member or friend watch the deceleration rate of both rear wheels when letting off the gas. If this side stops faster, adjust the brake shoes.

If its getting hot, its got friction between the drum and pads. 100%. A bad axle bearing couldn't get anywhere close to creating that much heat without you knowing that the axle bearing is toast. Has to be the shoe not retracting fully.

exactly - yet I can't figure out why??  I must have an already warped drum.  Getting sick of these shitty "new" parts as of late.  The left side already failed due to the shoe pads coming OFF their backing plates.  I spent twice as much $ on those shoes because I thought I would get better quality if I paid more.  I guess not.  Now I have to pay 3 times for rear brakes and I only have about 100 miles on the truck since all was newly redone.  

Seems easy enough to check the drum for run out, just put it on backwards.
If it's that bad you shouldn't even need a dial indicator.

Did you torque the lug nuts?
Are the emergency brake cables new too?

Care to mention the brand?
Does it end in R???

E brake is adjusted correctly.  Lug nuts torqued to 90 ft-lbs.

Original shoes I installed were Bendix 263.  These weren't cheap, but one came apart on the first drive over 10 miles.

Original Drums were Bendix 049

Now I have Autozone BrakeBest drum and pads on left (no heat, no sticking) and Autozone Brakebest pads and the Bendix drums on the right (sticking).

I suppose I could try a new BrakeBest drum on the right???  Seems so silly to keep throwing money over and over at the same issue without any knowledge as to what's causing the issue.

Here's a video I just took showing the sticking resistance on the right vs left
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HUHkPZyMMDA

Is there any chance that you put the wrong shoe in the right position?  In other words, there's a rear shoe and a front shoe, and if you put them in the wrong place they'll self-energize and come on when they shouldn't.

Gary,

I did check that to the manual I have and they are on correct.  They are also the same left side / right side.

I'm tempted to swap drums left to right and take a drive to diagnose if the right drum is the issue, but I don't want to mess up the left side which is now good by doing so.