Opinions on Frame Painting

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Opinions on Frame Painting

ckuske
Administrator
Hi All,

I'm asking for opinions on this (everyone's got one!)...  Here's the story:

My truck has never been in snow, or salt.  Southern California its whole life pretty much except for a brief stint in Nevada.  No snow there where I lived either!  The frame has some light surface rust, but even then its spotty at best.  No body rust.

My question is I was toying around with the idea of painting the accessible areas on the frame.  I need to take the bed off to replace the wood and front cross member of the bed, so painting the back will be easy.

Where I'm struggling to make up my mind is the front of the truck and under the cab... I don't plan to take the cab off, or pull the engine or any more of the front clip off.  Should I bother painting the bottom side of the frame in these areas, even if the top of the frame (like what the cab is sitting on) isn't going to be touched?

I was planning on using POR-15 in conjunction with the UV top coat as I've read about in other threads.  I imagine in wont be fun... it will all be painted with a brush on my back (under cab and front clip) except for the bed area unless I get a bigger compressor (just have a pancake one right now)

Just seeing what others think if it's necessary.  About the only benefit I'll get for the forseeable future is a better cosmetic appearance of the undercarriage.

Thanks,
Chris
Chris

'84 F-150 XL 2WD Flareside, 302 w/ AOD transmission, Motorcraft 2150 feedback carb w/ CA Emissions, EEC-IV w/TFI, factory A/C, speed control - Info about me and my truck - My project thread
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Re: Opinions on Frame Painting

Gary Lewis
Administrator
When I was painting Big Blue's cab floor with POR-15 to stop the rust I had some left over so painted part of the frame.  Boy, it sure turned out nice.  I really need to finish the job.

But, I didn't use a top coat, just the base POR-15.  If the truck were left outside for an extended period there might be enough UV reflected up there off the concrete to cause the paint to turn milky, which is what POR-15 does when exposed to UV.  But I don't think it'll ever be left out that long, so I'm not worried about it.

I say all of that to say if you have the time and the inclination I think you go ahead and paint the frame.  And, if you are worried about the UV then I suggest that you just use a rattle can chassis black spray to coat the POR - but make sure you do that while it is still tacky.  If you let it cure you'll have to scuff it to get the spray to adhere.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow
Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/ZF5/3.55's, D60 w/Ox locker & 10.25 Sterling/Trutrac, Blue Top & Borgeson, & EEC-V MAF/SEFI

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Re: Opinions on Frame Painting

kramttocs
Administrator
I agree on painting it. If for no other reason than whenever you are working under the truck you can look at the frame and smile
I went back and forth a lot with what to use but settled on Krylon Rust Tough RTA9203. Very happy with the results.
Scott
'Camano' 1986 F250 Supercab XLT Lariat 460/C6
'Chanute' 1980 F350 C&C 400/NP 435 - Gin Pole

But there ain't nothin' wrong with the radio
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Re: Opinions on Frame Painting

Rembrant
In reply to this post by ckuske
On a rust free truck or mostly rust free, I wouldn't worry too much about the frame that you can't see under the cab. With my 1984 Flareside, I painted the frame front and back, but I never did have the cab off it. I sprayed mine with a black rust paint, and it looks pretty good. It's a Canadian marketed brand paint, but as far as I know it is just Rustoleum, or whatever the common US brand is.

Brushing it all is fine, and most of it will look good that way, but if at all possible try to spray (even with a rattle can) the outsides of the frame over the rear wheels. Maybe this is just me and a very local issue, but I go out for the cruise-ins and a couple car shows, and it surprising how many people look under the rear wheel wells to look at the frame...lol. I watch them do it all the time.

In any case, it's very worth doing in my opinion. It will look like a million bucks all painted up under there.
1994 F150 4x2 Flareside. 5.0 w/MAF, 4R70W, stock.
1984 F150 4X2 Flareside. Mild 302 w/ 5spd. Sold.
1980 F150 4X4 Flareside. 300i6 w/ 5spd. Sold in 2021.
1980 F100 4X2 Flareside. 351w/2bbl w/NP435. Sold in 1995

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Re: Opinions on Frame Painting

ckuske
Administrator
Thanks guys!  Any advice on a degreaser to use before paint?
Chris

'84 F-150 XL 2WD Flareside, 302 w/ AOD transmission, Motorcraft 2150 feedback carb w/ CA Emissions, EEC-IV w/TFI, factory A/C, speed control - Info about me and my truck - My project thread
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Re: Opinions on Frame Painting

Gary Lewis
Administrator
IIRC, POR sells something like Marine Clean to degrease with.  You spray it on and then blast it off with water.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow
Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/ZF5/3.55's, D60 w/Ox locker & 10.25 Sterling/Trutrac, Blue Top & Borgeson, & EEC-V MAF/SEFI

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Re: Opinions on Frame Painting

kramttocs
Administrator
That marine cleaner sounds appealing. Especially in warm weather.
My frame didn't have any rust but I went over it all with a wire wheel and then wiped it down with Duplicolor degreaser until the rag came back clean.
 
Scott
'Camano' 1986 F250 Supercab XLT Lariat 460/C6
'Chanute' 1980 F350 C&C 400/NP 435 - Gin Pole

But there ain't nothin' wrong with the radio
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Re: Opinions on Frame Painting

Rusty_S85
In reply to this post by Rembrant
Rembrant wrote
On a rust free truck or mostly rust free, I wouldn't worry too much about the frame that you can't see under the cab. With my 1984 Flareside, I painted the frame front and back, but I never did have the cab off it. I sprayed mine with a black rust paint, and it looks pretty good. It's a Canadian marketed brand paint, but as far as I know it is just Rustoleum, or whatever the common US brand is.

Brushing it all is fine, and most of it will look good that way, but if at all possible try to spray (even with a rattle can) the outsides of the frame over the rear wheels. Maybe this is just me and a very local issue, but I go out for the cruise-ins and a couple car shows, and it surprising how many people look under the rear wheel wells to look at the frame...lol. I watch them do it all the time.

In any case, it's very worth doing in my opinion. It will look like a million bucks all painted up under there.
Big reason why I dont paint my frame cause I am so picky I want to blast the whole frame and coat the whole frame.
"Old Blue" - '56 Fairlane Town Sedan - 292-4V, Ford-O-Matic transmission, 3.22:1
'63 Belair 2dr sdn - 283-4V, Powerglide transmission, 4.56:1
'78 Cougar XR7 - 351-2V, FMX transmission, 2.75:1 9inch
"Bruno" - '82 F150 Flareside - 302-2V, C6 transmission, 2.75:1 9inch, 31x10.50-15 BFG KO2
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Re: Opinions on Frame Painting

ckuske
Administrator
In reply to this post by kramttocs
I'll look for the POR cleaner, thanks Gary (and add some elbow grease also, of course)
Chris

'84 F-150 XL 2WD Flareside, 302 w/ AOD transmission, Motorcraft 2150 feedback carb w/ CA Emissions, EEC-IV w/TFI, factory A/C, speed control - Info about me and my truck - My project thread
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Re: Opinions on Frame Painting

ckuske
Administrator
In reply to this post by Rusty_S85
Yes, this whole thread is to help me decide if my OCD can be overriden, and to what degree haha.
Chris

'84 F-150 XL 2WD Flareside, 302 w/ AOD transmission, Motorcraft 2150 feedback carb w/ CA Emissions, EEC-IV w/TFI, factory A/C, speed control - Info about me and my truck - My project thread
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Re: Opinions on Frame Painting

Rusty_S85
ckuske wrote
Yes, this whole thread is to help me decide if my OCD can be overriden, and to what degree haha.
Well Por15 is great, I used their engine paint on my 292 on my '56 Fairlane, I didnt use the exhaust cross over restrictors to prevent the paint burning, I brushed the Por15 Ford Engine Red on and I am like 3 years later and the paint still looks fresh and not burning off.

Im sure the frame paint would be just as good.  I have used Eastwood Chassis black before its nice but even their 2K chassis black can still be chipped.
"Old Blue" - '56 Fairlane Town Sedan - 292-4V, Ford-O-Matic transmission, 3.22:1
'63 Belair 2dr sdn - 283-4V, Powerglide transmission, 4.56:1
'78 Cougar XR7 - 351-2V, FMX transmission, 2.75:1 9inch
"Bruno" - '82 F150 Flareside - 302-2V, C6 transmission, 2.75:1 9inch, 31x10.50-15 BFG KO2
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Re: Opinions on Frame Painting

ckuske
Administrator
Thanks Scott and Rusty for your feedback also - I have a few things to get through, but hopefully I'll get to this in the next few months!
Chris

'84 F-150 XL 2WD Flareside, 302 w/ AOD transmission, Motorcraft 2150 feedback carb w/ CA Emissions, EEC-IV w/TFI, factory A/C, speed control - Info about me and my truck - My project thread
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Re: Opinions on Frame Painting

Andre
In reply to this post by ckuske
Chris,

As you are taking the bed off to replace the member and wood, I assume the rubbers will be replaced. This might cause the bed to sit higher than the cab. Removing the fenders, front and cab is not that difficult, and gives a much better access to clean, prepare and paint the entire frame. Also the engine can be nicely cleaned this way. I would do so, and replace all frame rubbers at the same time. In my experience this would add an additional three days to the paint job, but the result would be so much better.
Amsterdam Bronco
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Re: Opinions on Frame Painting

ckuske
Administrator
Thanks Andre, you've given me something to think about!

Unfortunately (and I think I'm in the minority here), I live in a city, and in a house with a two car garage.  I don't have a workshop with room to take the cab off etc and lay everything out.  I am a bit jealous of lots of you guys that have all this space to work in!

I have about two feet on every side of the truck in which to work... taking the bed off is going to be difficult enough to find a spot for it.  I suppose I could take the cab off and set it on the back part of the frame, but it's gonna be a challenge.
Chris

'84 F-150 XL 2WD Flareside, 302 w/ AOD transmission, Motorcraft 2150 feedback carb w/ CA Emissions, EEC-IV w/TFI, factory A/C, speed control - Info about me and my truck - My project thread
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Re: Opinions on Frame Painting

Rusty_S85
In reply to this post by Andre
Andre wrote
Chris,

As you are taking the bed off to replace the member and wood, I assume the rubbers will be replaced. This might cause the bed to sit higher than the cab. Removing the fenders, front and cab is not that difficult, and gives a much better access to clean, prepare and paint the entire frame. Also the engine can be nicely cleaned this way. I would do so, and replace all frame rubbers at the same time. In my experience this would add an additional three days to the paint job, but the result would be so much better.
Thats what I want to do to my flareside but I am in a rush now cause I havent driven my truck in 3 years now and I want to get the drivetrain finished.  Figured Id do the engine, transmission axle and springs then later on I may put my truck down before I get the paint and body work done and pull the engine/transmission out as well as just lift the cab and pull the bed and refinish the frame.
"Old Blue" - '56 Fairlane Town Sedan - 292-4V, Ford-O-Matic transmission, 3.22:1
'63 Belair 2dr sdn - 283-4V, Powerglide transmission, 4.56:1
'78 Cougar XR7 - 351-2V, FMX transmission, 2.75:1 9inch
"Bruno" - '82 F150 Flareside - 302-2V, C6 transmission, 2.75:1 9inch, 31x10.50-15 BFG KO2
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Re: Opinions on Frame Painting

FuzzFace2
Rusty_S85 wrote
Andre wrote
Chris,

As you are taking the bed off to replace the member and wood, I assume the rubbers will be replaced. This might cause the bed to sit higher than the cab. Removing the fenders, front and cab is not that difficult, and gives a much better access to clean, prepare and paint the entire frame. Also the engine can be nicely cleaned this way. I would do so, and replace all frame rubbers at the same time. In my experience this would add an additional three days to the paint job, but the result would be so much better.
Thats what I want to do to my flareside but I am in a rush now cause I havent driven my truck in 3 years now and I want to get the drivetrain finished.  Figured Id do the engine, transmission axle and springs then later on I may put my truck down before I get the paint and body work done and pull the engine/transmission out as well as just lift the cab and pull the bed and refinish the frame.
If you are like me and don't do it now you will not go back and do it later.
Even more so that you want to drive it as you have not in 3 years.

I know it is hard not to just say he11 with it and throw it together to drive, mine was 4 years and I never drove it before I bought it.
Dave ----
Dave G.
81 F100 flare side 300 six / AA OD / NP435 / 2.75 gear
http://cars.grantskingdom1.com/index.php/1980-Ford-F100?page=1
81 F100 style side 300 six/SROD parts truck -RIP
http://cars.grantskingdom1.com/index.php/1981-Ford-F100
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Re: Opinions on Frame Painting

PetesPonies
In reply to this post by Rusty_S85
Use Master Series Silver and either urethane black topcoat or Master Series AG111. A step up from POR which I would never use.
Pete's Ponies
Mustang RUSToration & Performance

1982 F100 Flareside
1983 Bronco

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Re: Opinions on Frame Painting

Andre
In reply to this post by ckuske
Chris, Maybe you have some height above the truck, here you could lift and hang off the cab and bed, no reason to set on the side.
Amsterdam Bronco
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Re: Opinions on Frame Painting

Machspeed
Administrator
In reply to this post by PetesPonies
PetesPonies wrote
Use Master Series Silver and either urethane black topcoat or Master Series AG111. A step up from POR which I would never use.
Frankly, if it were me and I had a lot of open access to the frame, I'd spray it in epoxy and top coat. But, while I've heard about both Master Series (heard great things), and POR, I've never used either. If I'm not mistaken, I believe both can be put on with a brush to which would be advantageous to the OP.

I'm curious, why is Master Serious better than POR and what is the problem with POR?
John

"Blackie" - 1986 F150 4x4 - Mildly warmed over 351W HO - Original owner
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Re: Opinions on Frame Painting

Rusty_S85
In reply to this post by FuzzFace2
FuzzFace2 wrote
Rusty_S85 wrote
Andre wrote
Chris,

As you are taking the bed off to replace the member and wood, I assume the rubbers will be replaced. This might cause the bed to sit higher than the cab. Removing the fenders, front and cab is not that difficult, and gives a much better access to clean, prepare and paint the entire frame. Also the engine can be nicely cleaned this way. I would do so, and replace all frame rubbers at the same time. In my experience this would add an additional three days to the paint job, but the result would be so much better.
Thats what I want to do to my flareside but I am in a rush now cause I havent driven my truck in 3 years now and I want to get the drivetrain finished.  Figured Id do the engine, transmission axle and springs then later on I may put my truck down before I get the paint and body work done and pull the engine/transmission out as well as just lift the cab and pull the bed and refinish the frame.
If you are like me and don't do it now you will not go back and do it later.
Even more so that you want to drive it as you have not in 3 years.

I know it is hard not to just say he11 with it and throw it together to drive, mine was 4 years and I never drove it before I bought it.
Dave ----
Thats how I feel but my plan has always been to do the engine, transmission, rear axle first then do the paint and body work then the interior last.  Now I am seriously considering doing a 4x4 swap if I can find a matched gear set for the Dana 44 IFS that I can also get in the Ford 9" as well this would be something that would have to be done later on and figured if I do set my eyes on it I guess I could always do a 4x4 transmission and transfer case and just leave it in 2wd till I get the 4wd front done, still for me I have to actually find the I beams as they are kind of hard to find I am seeing in stock form.  Found one of the beams and a steering knuckle both NOS but wont buy till I am sure I will be doing this.

I also dont know if a 2wd C6 could be disassembled and converted into a 4wd C6, if it could be done by swapping the output shaft then maybe I could have my C6 built how I want it then have it converted at a later date and not lose my recalibrated governor and valve body.  But I am still new to this 4wd conversion stuff so I am stumbling through it but it looks like its going to be quite pricy but at the same time I think it would look good to be done.

On mine I used to drive mine daily, I still would be if it wouldnt have been for the balancer breaking apart and spinning over the key on the crankshaft which I believe egg shaped the crank snout pinching the damper bolt.  Still cant believe my impact with 100ft airhose set on the lowest power setting was able to twist off this bolt.  Thats the only reason why I am doing this engine build on my truck, figure if the engine has to come out I might as well build the engine I always wanted for my truck.  Then with a new engine that means the old worn out C6 that still pulls but has somewhere in the neighborhood of 18% slip it too will need to be rebuilt.  Then if I am doing all this I might as well do my truetrac I always wanted to upgrade to and while I am in the axle I might as well swap the ring and pinion gear to offset my 31x10.50-15 tires.

Just became one thing after another and I am close to getting the engine done but I do know when it comes to the paint and body I am taking my bed off so the paint and body shop can paint the back of my cab as well as clearcoat it the same as the rest of the truck.  I am so picky that is one thing that bothers me is seeing trucks at work with a overspray of clear on the back of the cab.

Another thing I am also looking at doing some time before I do paint and body work is replacing the worn out springs front and rear.  I also wanted to add 2" taller coil springs in the front to level the truck out.  But now if I go 4wd I will have to get different springs as I am pretty sure the 4x4 springs are going to be a different rating than the 2wd springs and not sure if it would apply to my 2wd truck.  Brings a serious question to me if the stock 4wd springs would level the truck out with the 2wd leaf springs in the back or should I go 4wd springs all around.

Its one of those things where it wouldnt be hard for me to disassemble my truck after my drivetrain is finished to get to the frame and refinish it.  But I do agree, once I get the truck finished I would find it hard to put the truck down and take it apart again.  But at the moment I need to get the truck running again cause I am paying for registration just to keep the city off my rear for the truck not being registered.  If I had my shop built I would just put the truck in the shop and let the registration lapse and do it all at one time.
"Old Blue" - '56 Fairlane Town Sedan - 292-4V, Ford-O-Matic transmission, 3.22:1
'63 Belair 2dr sdn - 283-4V, Powerglide transmission, 4.56:1
'78 Cougar XR7 - 351-2V, FMX transmission, 2.75:1 9inch
"Bruno" - '82 F150 Flareside - 302-2V, C6 transmission, 2.75:1 9inch, 31x10.50-15 BFG KO2
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