Oh, But do I have to take off the Bed??????

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Oh, But do I have to take off the Bed??????

Bulletproof250
After chasing around the sediment causing my intermittently-running F250, I decided to buckle and purchase a new tack from MTS, I ordered the 4252B and a pair of straps. Now that I have these parts I'm sure I'll encounter something else filler neck hose or fasteners, however it's the disassembly that I'm looking for a confirmation on. I've seen beautiful "Frame-off" restorations here on the forum, however this is one I wasn't planning to dig into that far. So can I just drop the tank, or does the bed have to come off.
Thanks,
Alex

1984 F-250 Std Cab (a.k.a. Harrison), Dana 60 Rear, Dana 44HD Front, Ratio 3.54:1, 351W, 2bbl Motorcraft 2150, 4WD NP208 Transfer Case, 4-Speed Warner T-18..
Med Desert Tan Metallic ("Tan? ..not brown?" <= from CT DMV worker upon registering)

-Teach your Kids to Fish, Hunt, or get them into Cars, and they'll never have the time or money for drugs.
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Re: Oh, But do I have to take off the Bed??????

reamer
If you like working on your back, and getting crap in your face, and trying to wiggle your arm to dis connect the sender and plugs, and want to hold a container of gas over your head, go for it.
It is strongly recommended to pull the bed and work standing up.
It is actually very easy to take the bed off, Now you can see what your doing safely...
1986 F-150 Flareside 4x4, 351, 4-v, ZF5 speed. AC, Cruise, Tilt, Slider, Digital clock, Radio, Lariat seat, Pwr doors/locks
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Re: Oh, But do I have to take off the Bed??????

Gary Lewis
Administrator
This post was updated on .
I think Ron's suggestion of taking the tank off has a lot of merit.  However, you may run into problems getting the nuts off the bed bolts, in which case it is possible to remove the tank by yourself.

First, the tank has to be as empty as you can possibly get it.  At about 8 lbs/gallon it doesn't take much gas to make the tank very heavy.  Edit: David has pointed out that gasoline only weighs 6 lbs/gallon.  Thanks, David!

Second, you will need to lower the tank to the ground in a controlled fashion.  That's because any gas that's in the tank, and there WILL be some, will rush to one end and make the tank almost impossible to hold if you try to man-handle it.  Don't ask.

The best approach I've seen used is multiple ratchet straps.  Use two ratchet straps to hold it after you get to the end of the all-thread that is through the metal straps, and take out the metal straps.  Then position two more ratchet straps so they will catch the tank and try to gently release the original ratchet straps.  Keep alternating back and forth until you get it on the ground.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow
Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/ZF5/3.55's, D60 w/Ox locker & 10.25 Sterling/Trutrac, Blue Top & Borgeson, & EEC-V MAF/SEFI

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Re: Oh, But do I have to take off the Bed??????

85lebaront2
Administrator
I have done it both ways, If you plan on taking the bed off, try to locate replacement bolts, do not trust LMC or NPD to have the correct bolts (ask how I know). Best solution is cut the nuts off leaving the bolt intact, nuts can be gotten from Fastenal or other bolt suppliers.

Tanks, I have had mine in and out a number of times since 1994 when I bought Darth. When I bought him the front tank leaked at the seam where dirt had packed in along the "ambulance" heat shield, which is sort of academic on a crew cab, and the pump in the rear tank was dead. I purchased a used tank (fun to find on an in-tank pump 460) and installed it, taking the shield off and discarding it as the exhaust crossover heat it was to protect the tank from is 35" further away.

Once I had the front tank functional, I went after the rear and found that I had to remove one side of the mounts for my V5 receiver hitch. Finding a pump was interesting, everyone wanted to sell me an early (1985.5-1989) EFI pump which is I believe 15 psi vs 6 psi for the carbureted pump.

If you know someone who has an undercar type transmission jack or works on VWs (air cooled) it will have a larger flat plate and in the case of a transmission jack tilt in two directions.

On the front tank, as Gary pointed out, it is long and remaining gas will slosh and assist in loss of control. Front fill hose enters at roughly a 45° angle and there is an inner vent line that goes through a ring in the filler neck on the tank, this is a royal PITA to reinstall. Rear tank, filler enters horizontally over the frame rail, and the tank is best removed/reinstalled by going out and in the right side.

Here is a picture of Darth with the bed off (I was replacing it due to metal eating termites). The fillers are peculiar to the DRW trucks, at least the hoses and vents, the actual necks seem to be common to all.
Bill AKA "LOBO" Profile

"Getting old is inevitable, growing up is optional" Darth Vader 1986 F350 460 converted to MAF/SEFI, E4OD 12X3 1/2 rear brakes, traction loc 3:55 gear, 160 amp 3G alternator Wife's 2011 Flex Limited Daily Driver 2009 Flex Limited with factory tow package Project car 1986 Chrysler LeBaron convertible 2.2L Turbo II, modified A413

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Re: Oh, But do I have to take off the Bed??????

Rembrant
In reply to this post by Gary Lewis
Gary Lewis wrote
I think Ron's suggestion of taking the tank off has a lot of merit.  However, you may run into problems getting the nuts off the bed bolts,...
I'm with Ron on this one, especially if the truck is rusty. I had to drill all 8 of my bed bolts to remove the bed and if I had to do it that way again I would.

The only exception for me personally would be if it was a new truck, or one with a freshly painted frame and new tank, new straps, new sender, etc...then I'd try it from underneath.
1994 F150 4x2 Flareside. 5.0 w/MAF, 4R70W, stock.
1984 F150 4X2 Flareside. Mild 302 w/ 5spd. Sold.
1980 F150 4X4 Flareside. 300i6 w/ 5spd. Sold in 2021.
1980 F100 4X2 Flareside. 351w/2bbl w/NP435. Sold in 1995

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Re: Oh, But do I have to take off the Bed??????

Nothing Special
In reply to this post by Bulletproof250
When i replaced the rear tank on my '97 F-250HD I looked at pulling the bed, and with the rust on the nuts I decided to fight with the tank under the bed instead.  Yes, it would've been a lot easier to work on standing up with the bed off.  But it wasn't all that hard.  I had the advantage of being able to empty the tank by driving it until it ran out of gas, so getting it down was easy for me (there was well under a cup of gas left), but Gary and Bill have given you good advice if you can't do that.

The biggest challenge I had was getting the gas lines (supply and return on my '97) disconnected.  They connect on top of the tank and I couldn't lower it very far before they pulled tight.  That was fun to fight with when I couldn't really see what I was doing.

Even with that, I think it was still a lot easier than getting the bed off (without wrecking anything) would've been on my rusty truck.  But if I had been doing both tanks at the same time the balance might've shifted in favor of pulling the bed.
Bob
Sorry, no '80 - '86 Ford trucks
"Oswald": 1997 F-250HD crew cab short box, 460, E4OD, 4.10 gears
"Pluto": 1971 Bronco, 302, NV3550 5 speed, Atlas 4.3:1 transfer case, 33" tires
"the motorhome": 2015 E-450-based 28' class C motorhome, 6.8L V-10
"the Dodge": 2007 Dodge 2500, 6.7L Cummins
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Re: Oh, But do I have to take off the Bed??????

ArdWrknTrk
Administrator
In reply to this post by Bulletproof250
Side tank?

I too have done it both ways and have to say I didn't find it too difficult, on my back.
No matter which way you go find some padding for where the straps wrap the tank. (I used 3" fiberglass roving)

Brush and then blow off as much road grime and rust as you can, so it doesn't end up in your face.

Like others have said, have it as empty as possible.
If you're replacing the tank, you can poke a hole in it and let it drain into a good sized pan (I used a 60l plastic tote)

Unclip the fuel lines from the frame first to give yourself a little more slack.

I'm looking at doing this whenever the ground dries up.
For some reason if I park downhill with a near full tank it leaks.
Phone camera inspection shows both bung and rollover valve are dry.
Fill tube looks good too.
 Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake.
Too much other stuff to mention.
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Re: Oh, But do I have to take off the Bed??????

85lebaront2
Administrator
Jim. does your truck still have the plastic shield on the front end of the side tank? They trap dirt, which once you add water you get mud which will eventually rust the top of the tank just above the seam.
Bill AKA "LOBO" Profile

"Getting old is inevitable, growing up is optional" Darth Vader 1986 F350 460 converted to MAF/SEFI, E4OD 12X3 1/2 rear brakes, traction loc 3:55 gear, 160 amp 3G alternator Wife's 2011 Flex Limited Daily Driver 2009 Flex Limited with factory tow package Project car 1986 Chrysler LeBaron convertible 2.2L Turbo II, modified A413

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Re: Oh, But do I have to take off the Bed??????

ArdWrknTrk
Administrator
Yes. I reused the impact cover.

But this tank was well painted and installed only a few years ago when I dug into the body rot.
It has new fenders, cab corners, wheel arches, passenger rocker, etc..

I I took video from both sides with my phone and saw nothing wet or amiss.

It has been doing this for a long time.

I usually do add more than 12 gallons.
Maybe it has a bad seam.
IDK.
But I intend to fix it before winter (and winter IS coming)
 Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake.
Too much other stuff to mention.
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Re: Oh, But do I have to take off the Bed??????

Dorsai
In reply to this post by Bulletproof250
I've done this twice on my F-150, most recently at the beginning of this year, and I haven't removed the bed either time.

The way I did it the second time worked pretty well.  First I loosened the front strap as much as possible without removing the nut; this dropped the front of the tank about 3" or so (I probably loosened the back strap a little bit as well, to let the tank pivot forward) and let me disconnect the fuel line.  Then I put a floor jack under the rear of the tank, removed the rear strap, and lowered the tank to the point that I was able to reach up to where the filler tube goes into the tank and disconnect it.  That let me put a line for a transfer pump into the tank and pump out the gas that was in there.  One that was done I lowered the rear of the tank the rest of the way and removed the jack (I may have lowered it onto a small platform made of 2x4 chunks, or maybe onto the floor - I don't recall).  At that point the nearly-empty tank was only supported by the loose front strap, which was easy to remove with one hand while I held the tank up with the other.

Installation was the reverse, but it was harder to do - there's probably a better way that I haven't figured out.  Anyway, good luck!
Matthew
1980 F-150 Custom 2wd longbed, 300-6, C6, 2.75 rear axle
Atlanta GA
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Re: Oh, But do I have to take off the Bed??????

Gary Lewis
Administrator
Matthew - That sounds like a good process.  
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow
Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/ZF5/3.55's, D60 w/Ox locker & 10.25 Sterling/Trutrac, Blue Top & Borgeson, & EEC-V MAF/SEFI

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Re: Oh, But do I have to take off the Bed??????

Danny G
In reply to this post by 85lebaront2
Anyone used a transmission jack to lower the tank, instead of fighting it?
1986 F-150|Standard Cab|4x2|300Six|C6Transmission w/3.08 rear|Name:TBD
2021 Ranger XLT Super Crew
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Re: Oh, But do I have to take off the Bed??????

Gary Lewis
Administrator
Yes, but my tranny jack is about 4' high at its lowest setting, so has to be used in conjunction with my lift.  So I didn't mention it.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow
Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/ZF5/3.55's, D60 w/Ox locker & 10.25 Sterling/Trutrac, Blue Top & Borgeson, & EEC-V MAF/SEFI

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Re: Oh, But do I have to take off the Bed??????

85lebaront2
Administrator
In reply to this post by Danny G
Yes, that is exactly what I use, it is a low profile Walker transmission jack.
Bill AKA "LOBO" Profile

"Getting old is inevitable, growing up is optional" Darth Vader 1986 F350 460 converted to MAF/SEFI, E4OD 12X3 1/2 rear brakes, traction loc 3:55 gear, 160 amp 3G alternator Wife's 2011 Flex Limited Daily Driver 2009 Flex Limited with factory tow package Project car 1986 Chrysler LeBaron convertible 2.2L Turbo II, modified A413

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Re: Oh, But do I have to take off the Bed??????

Bulletproof250
It's been a while, but I hate to read a topic in a forum, and then get to the end of it and find that the OP never responds to let everyone know how they made out with their project. So to complete the loop... I did the tank change. It went great, much of my concern with rusted parts and rotted tubing was quickly dismissed, when I started with tanks straps and as long as those bolts were, they came off smoothly. I used some Tie-down straps to support eh end of the tank as I lowered it with my floor jack. and loosened them a bit more. I then continued to lower it enough to access the fill hose clamp, the fuel line clamp, and the sender wire. Although I purchased new straps suspecting I would have to cut them off, They sit in my shop looking for either the old ones to rot off, or someone on here to say they need them. (See the details of my truck bellow, this was a 18-gallon, single-tank truck, so if you need Straps, I'l send them to you , just pay shipping. Thanks again to the Bullnose forum, and the members, for once again being a great resource for this vintage of F-Series.
Thanks,
Alex

1984 F-250 Std Cab (a.k.a. Harrison), Dana 60 Rear, Dana 44HD Front, Ratio 3.54:1, 351W, 2bbl Motorcraft 2150, 4WD NP208 Transfer Case, 4-Speed Warner T-18..
Med Desert Tan Metallic ("Tan? ..not brown?" <= from CT DMV worker upon registering)

-Teach your Kids to Fish, Hunt, or get them into Cars, and they'll never have the time or money for drugs.
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Re: Oh, But do I have to take off the Bed??????

Gary Lewis
Administrator
Thank, or should that be 'tanks, for the followup.  It is always good to know how things turn out, and even better when they turn out well.

As for the offer on the straps, that is the spirit of the Bullnose Forum!  
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow
Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/ZF5/3.55's, D60 w/Ox locker & 10.25 Sterling/Trutrac, Blue Top & Borgeson, & EEC-V MAF/SEFI