My Vacuum Mess!

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My Vacuum Mess!

Matt Wood
This post was updated on .
Hi guys, this is my first post. I have an 85 bronco with a new 351w and i need to clean up the vacuum system before i start it for the first time! Its currently a mess, in the process of cleaning it up i would like to remove the emissions stuff as i don't think its really necessary.

Here is a video of the mess i'm working with,

http://youtu.be/E-FEXxt1akc

'Shelby' - 1985 bronco XLT, 351W C6, Limited slip 9 inch
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Re: My Vacuum Mess!

Gary Lewis
Administrator
Matt - Glad you posted.  Good job.

All - Matt's from the UK, Stanstead area.  And he told me in the background that the Bronco is old enough that it doesn't have to meet emissions standards.

Matt - We have a page here that talks about what minimal vacuum connections you need: Documentation/Underhood/Vacuum Systems.

Have a read of that and then let's chat about it on here.  And I'll work on another post as well.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow
Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/ZF5/3.55's, D60 w/Ox locker & 10.25 Sterling/Trutrac, Blue Top & Borgeson, & EEC-V MAF/SEFI

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Re: My Vacuum Mess!

Matt Wood
Thanks for the link, I have got so much more than that, i'm very worried about ripping it out as it does work fine at the moment however something needs to be done! You'll see in the video that i have a vacuum bank type thing on the inner fender. Do i need any of that? or can i just remove it and not worry. I don't think the intake manifold has the previsions for any type of EGR Although i could be completely wrong (weiand 8023) and the charcoal canister didn't even have pipes running to it when i bought the truck so someone seems to have started the job!
'Shelby' - 1985 bronco XLT, 351W C6, Limited slip 9 inch
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Re: My Vacuum Mess!

Gary Lewis
Administrator
Matt - The things you point out are part of a very elaborate emissions system.  And since you do not have EGR (the intake manifold doesn't have EGR capability) your emissions system isn't going to work, for the most part.  So I think you are going to have to remove it.

So the question is how to recommend you approach doing that.  One way would be for us to try to identify everything that should come off.  But I think the better way is for you to hook it up as shown on the page in the link above and then start it up to prove it works.  Then you can start removing things that aren't connected.

Having said that, to start the engine you don't really need any vacuum devices hooked up.  But you do need all open ports plugged.  So you could plug all the ports and start the engine.  Then, once you prove the engine is working properly you can start adding things like the vacuum advance, power brakes, PCV, etc.

The vacuum equipment on the right fender (almost said "passenger's fender", but I don't know if your truck is RHD or LHD), behind the battery, is probably for the charcoal cannister.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow
Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/ZF5/3.55's, D60 w/Ox locker & 10.25 Sterling/Trutrac, Blue Top & Borgeson, & EEC-V MAF/SEFI

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Re: My Vacuum Mess!

85lebaront2
Administrator
This post was updated on .
If you do not have emission system requirements, be sure the catalytic converter is gone (should be as I don't believe unleaded fuel was common in Europe at the time your truck was built) you need some form of evaporative purge system, otherwise the charcoal canister(s) will load up with petrol fumes.

Vacuum advance should be from the ported vacuum tap on the carburetter and this source can also be used for the canister purge control valve. One item I noticed, you have a large vacuum top on the right rear intake runner, this can cause #4 and occasionally #7 cylinders to run lean. If your manifold has a vacuum tap location that is closer to the center, or at least in a location where it enters both sides of the intake runners is better. You have the crankcase ventilation valve into the front of your carburetter and if the line teed from it goes to the canister purge control valve's large port, the ported tap will serve to actuate it.

The thermal vacuum valve on the thermostat housing, should most likely be plumbed lower port to ported vacuum tap on carburetter, middle to vacuum advance on distributor, top to a direct vacuum source. This is to advance the timing if the motor overheats.

Cheers! If we can help with it feel free to ask.
Bill AKA "LOBO" Profile

"Getting old is inevitable, growing up is optional" Darth Vader 1986 F350 460 converted to MAF/SEFI, E4OD 12X3 1/2 rear brakes, traction loc 3:55 gear, 160 amp 3G alternator Wife's 2011 Flex Limited Daily Driver 2009 Flex Limited with factory tow package Project car 1986 Chrysler LeBaron convertible 2.2L Turbo II, modified A413

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Re: My Vacuum Mess!

Matt Wood
In reply to this post by Gary Lewis
Thanks for the help guys, you really inspired me to go nuts.... my engine bay looks so clean, i have removed so much crap that just didn't look necessary lol, i'll upload a photo tomorrow once its all back together and running (hopefully). Bill, my truck is a Michigan built truck! I had it shipped over from the states last year so its all the same running gear as yours!
'Shelby' - 1985 bronco XLT, 351W C6, Limited slip 9 inch
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Re: My Vacuum Mess!

Gary Lewis
Administrator
Cool!  Can't wait to see pics, inc the pile of "stuff" you removed.  

Hope it starts and runs well.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow
Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/ZF5/3.55's, D60 w/Ox locker & 10.25 Sterling/Trutrac, Blue Top & Borgeson, & EEC-V MAF/SEFI

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Re: My Vacuum Mess!

Matt Wood
I apologise for not updating this for such a long time! but here are the pictures of what i removed and how it looks now without this massive mess cluttering up the engine bay...



You may not be able to see the tape measure here but thats about 2 feet square of wiring and hoses! the camera really doesn't do it justice





'Shelby' - 1985 bronco XLT, 351W C6, Limited slip 9 inch
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Re: My Vacuum Mess!

ckuske
Administrator
Wow, as the owner of a California truck living in California, I am jealous of that engine bay!  Mine will never look that nice...

Awesome job, it looks great.
Chris

'84 F-150 XL 2WD Flareside, 302 w/ AOD transmission, Motorcraft 2150 feedback carb w/ CA Emissions, EEC-IV w/TFI, factory A/C, speed control - Info about me and my truck - My project thread
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Re: My Vacuum Mess!

Gary Lewis
Administrator
In reply to this post by Matt Wood
Matt - It sure looks good!  You took a BUNCH of "stuff" out of there.  Well done!

What did you paint the fender liners with?  They look new.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow
Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/ZF5/3.55's, D60 w/Ox locker & 10.25 Sterling/Trutrac, Blue Top & Borgeson, & EEC-V MAF/SEFI

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Re: My Vacuum Mess!

Matt Wood
Thanks guys, it was a lot of hard work to make it as empty as it is, i ended up extending the loom and moving the voltage regulator under the dash! but the end result is so good!

Gary, as for the fender liners  all i did was use some plastic primer and gloss black to get the colour and then clear coat over the top, i used nothing special at all i got it all from Halfords (our version of Advanced Auto and Autozone) the results are amazing! on the flip side i painted the other fender liner a while back and didn't use a plastic specific primer and the results... lets just say ill be doing that one again lol

Slowly but surly my truck is getting the restoration it deserves, im onto the interior now working my way backwards, here is a pic of my frame and front suspension, disregard the mess of wires here, this was mid way through moving and extending the loom.



Eventually i will have the springs painted in silver again but for now its a lot of hassle prepping them when i have other projects id like to get done first, like those lovely looking brake callipers lol
'Shelby' - 1985 bronco XLT, 351W C6, Limited slip 9 inch
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Re: My Vacuum Mess!

Gary Lewis
Administrator
Extending the wires can sure make a difference.  I did something similar on Big Blue and it left the passenger's side fender liner looking a lot more purposeful instead of the wiring running across at an odd angle.

So where are the shots of the interior?  You know that by posting pics here you'll always be able to find them.

As for Halfords, I've been in a few of those in my time.  Probably in Watford, though I can't remember for sure.  But we lived in Moor Park, near Watford, and had a few issues with the Nissan Prairie we drove.

On the fender liners, after priming/painting/and adding the clear coat are they delicate?
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow
Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/ZF5/3.55's, D60 w/Ox locker & 10.25 Sterling/Trutrac, Blue Top & Borgeson, & EEC-V MAF/SEFI

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Re: My Vacuum Mess!

Matt Wood
I seems to be having an issue after extending my wires... the alternator is no longer charging the battery, i haven't done any investigation into this as of yet because i have been focusing on my interior work as i put the truck on a trickle charger while its in the garage so the battery is always fully charged.  but i am now at a stage where im almost ready to investigate whats going on, incidentally the gauge on the dash doesn't seem to be showing any charge so maybe just a bad alternator (which is only 30 miles old so i hope it isn't bad lol)

Here are the pics of the interior, i haven't posted an update because its been a slow process and i wanted to wait until i had made some progress worth posting haha


This was the before picture, i was very lucky in that i had no rust at all to deal with, all i had was flakey paint and surface rust in a few places.




I Went through and sanded back all the places that had flakey paint and put a coat of Hammerite rust preventative paint. I may have gone a bit mad with the 'just the bits that need it' coat but i guess it cant hurt anything right? haha




These are the after photos, the paint went on really well and i dont see this floor ever rusting... from the inside at least lol, from doing the cab floor i can see that i have been VERY lucky my truck and it really has been well looked after over the years.


I gave the carpet a good pressure wash and hand scrubbing with carpet cleaner too while it was out. It has come up brand new, it looks out of place to the rear carpet now, that will be the next job  

I did find another goody while i had the carpet out... another build sheet for my truck!! its the best of the two, it seems absolutely perfect, i can read every line!





For the fender liners they aren't delicate at all, i obviously wouldn't start folding them in half but the bending and manipulation required to get it back into place without scratching my fresh frame and suspension paint caused no issues at all to the paint or the clear. i want to keep the shiny finish i have on them so i am being delicate when putting things on them but thats just me, i dont think they would scratch easily and i think the paint is well stuck, i dont think it would come off.  The lessons i have learned from painting them is the same as painting anything! prep is everything, This time i washed it twice, used scotch brite and then used panel wipe multiple times to make sure i would get the best adhesion possible, that work plus the use of plastic specific primer seems to have done the trick.  
'Shelby' - 1985 bronco XLT, 351W C6, Limited slip 9 inch
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Re: My Vacuum Mess!

Rusty_S85
In reply to this post by Gary Lewis
If you want the plastic fenders to look like new I would recommend using Eastwoods plastic renew, I am going to use it on my heater box and my plastic fenders.  just not sure if I want to attempt to paint my firewall while my engine is out or do it after the truck is painted and just wrap my engine and frame in plastic.

But the plastic renew ive seen it in person and that coating makes the plastic look like fresh made plastic.
"Old Blue" - '56 Fairlane Town Sedan - 292-4V, Ford-O-Matic transmission, 3.22:1
'63 Belair 2dr sdn - 283-4V, Powerglide transmission, 4.56:1
'78 Cougar XR7 - 351-2V, FMX transmission, 2.75:1 9inch
"Bruno" - '82 F150 Flareside - 302-2V, C6 transmission, 2.75:1 9inch, 31x10.50-15 BFG KO2
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Re: My Vacuum Mess!

Gary Lewis
Administrator
In reply to this post by Matt Wood
Looking good, Matt.

On the charging issue, do you think there's a relationship with the hot wires?
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow
Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/ZF5/3.55's, D60 w/Ox locker & 10.25 Sterling/Trutrac, Blue Top & Borgeson, & EEC-V MAF/SEFI

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Re: My Vacuum Mess!

Matt Wood
In reply to this post by Rusty_S85
Rusty, i dont have very good access to Eastwood products here, i have some plastic renew (not eastwood) which i did the centre console in and the out come was good but the paint is far superior for a permanent solution. I am aiming for a show ready truck at the end so paint was the better option for me!
'Shelby' - 1985 bronco XLT, 351W C6, Limited slip 9 inch
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Re: My Vacuum Mess!

Matt Wood
In reply to this post by Gary Lewis
So... i did think there could be but i dont see how, i havent turned the truck on to get hot wires just put it to ACC which wouldn't activate the charging system, it could however be a short in the voltage regulator area that provides the power to the dash and such but i have no idea, im going to try your suggestions from my other post and go from there, its not something im going to over look haha
'Shelby' - 1985 bronco XLT, 351W C6, Limited slip 9 inch
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Re: My Vacuum Mess!

Rusty_S85
In reply to this post by Matt Wood
Have to be careful, many will copy a product but make it different.

The eastwood stuff is better than paint as it actually penetrates the plastic bringing the color back.  The coating also provided 7 years of UV protection ontop of it.

This is the description for Eastwood`s version.

"While most competitor products are only temporary solutions that sit on the surface, Eastwood's Plastic Resurfacer is a permanent repair. This resurfacer is not simply another plain paint or wipe-on coating, it gets deep within the plastic to re-flow the plastic and restore that factory finish look!"
"Old Blue" - '56 Fairlane Town Sedan - 292-4V, Ford-O-Matic transmission, 3.22:1
'63 Belair 2dr sdn - 283-4V, Powerglide transmission, 4.56:1
'78 Cougar XR7 - 351-2V, FMX transmission, 2.75:1 9inch
"Bruno" - '82 F150 Flareside - 302-2V, C6 transmission, 2.75:1 9inch, 31x10.50-15 BFG KO2
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Re: My Vacuum Mess!

Gary Lewis
Administrator
Rusty_S85 wrote
Have to be careful, many will copy a product but make it different.

The eastwood stuff is better than paint as it actually penetrates the plastic bringing the color back.  The coating also provided 7 years of UV protection ontop of it.

This is the description for Eastwood`s version.

"While most competitor products are only temporary solutions that sit on the surface, Eastwood's Plastic Resurfacer is a permanent repair. This resurfacer is not simply another plain paint or wipe-on coating, it gets deep within the plastic to re-flow the plastic and restore that factory finish look!"
Don't forget that Matt's in England.  That's why he said "Rusty, i dont have very good access to Eastwood products here".
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow
Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/ZF5/3.55's, D60 w/Ox locker & 10.25 Sterling/Trutrac, Blue Top & Borgeson, & EEC-V MAF/SEFI