Motor Home brake leaking

We have a 2004 Fleetwood motor home on a Ford F53 15,700 lb chassis. V10 motor.

The squirrels got to the front passenger side brake line, ABS cable, the battery ground cable, and the auto leveling hydraulic line. I have replaced everything but the auto leveling line, not quite ready to tackle that yet.

While replacing the brake line, of course I lost some brake fluid. The brakes need flushing out any way. The bleeder valve was really stuck, and I have been sprayed it with PBblaster, every other day for two weeks. Yesterday I worked at the bleeder for a while and was able to break it free, but I buttered up the area where the wrench attaches. (I have no idea what’s they are called). So I wanted to replace the bleeder valve, I found a couple of them at the local Car Quest parts store Dorman 13901. And some fresh DOT 3 brake fluid.

Replace the valve, filled the reservoir, and bled both front brakes. It went every easy.

Started the motor home to move it out of the driveway. Parked it and looked at the brake and all around the bleeder valve was wet with fresh brake fluid. I rechecked to insure I had tightened the valve down and it was tight. I wiped it down and cleaned it with brake cleaner, and took the motor home for a spin. The brakes felt good.

Got back home and climbed back under for a quick look. And all around the bleeder valve was wet, and it had ran down caliber and you could see where it had dripped on to the wheel.

All that to ask, can I use the blue permatex on the threads as it appears to be seeping around them? Or something else? Or get a larger wrench






,

Bleeder nipples seal at the cone on the end.
Applying anerobic sealant to the threads is not going to work.
And worse yet, if it does work, it is covering up a brake flaw that could get you or someone else killed.

I don't mean to be negative Nancy or a safety nazi, but please fix it right rather than trying to patch it to get by.
Maybe there's some rust in the seat?
Perhaps the cone angle isn't correct for that caliper?
Maybe the length isn't correct?
I'm definitely no RV mechanic but brakes are one area where I'm not about cutting corners.

What I did today was to remove the new bleeder valve, cleaned up the old one and put it back in , bled the brakes and no leak. I compared the old valve with the new and to my old eyes they look the same but they must not be.

I’m in complete agreement with you, Jim. It’s not going anywhere until I’m sure it’s 100%.

Im going to pull the caliper off, so I can really see the threads.
 

Wow!.... let's not get crazy here.  😜

Swabbing around in there with a Q-tip for some random grit or comparing the seat cone and threaded length makes sense.
Breaking those massive calipers loose 'to have a look at the threads' seems a bit much.

The threads are only to apply force to the sealing cone.
If there is a problem with the seal it is on the face, not with the threads.

I'm definitely intrigued with the issue and what you do to resolve it.

I decided to remove the wheel, so I could have a better look at what I was doing. I lowered the leveling jacks down and raised that one wheel of the ground, you can control individual jacks, but with all 4 down it really stabilized the coach. Then I put a jack stand in place. The wheels on this coach are 19.5, and to me are heavy.
I had reinstalled the old valve yesterday and as best as I could see, it was dry around the valve.

After removing the wheel I was able to remove the old valve and reinstalled the new one. Bled it down , pumped the brakes, and I got a small wet area around the valve.

The weather has turned nasty so I had to stop working outside for today, move inside and work on the 86.  I will pick it back up Monday.

Sorry this is being such an obstinate repair when simple replacement should have solved your bleeder leak.

The only thing I can think is the conical point of the replacement is not big enough to entirely cover the bleed port of the caliper when tightened down.