Maintenance

Hello!

I'm the new owner of a 1985 F-250. This is my first project truck so I'm learning as I go. The engine has 128k miles and seems to be in very good shape. I'd like to keep it that way so after some research I created a list of items that need to be checked/replaced. If anyone has any input please let me know!

Truck Specifications:
1985 F-250
Rear axle Dana 61 6250 3.54
Front axle Dana 44 TTB HD
351W
T18
4x4

Service items:
-Transmission fluid change
-Oil change
-Air filter change
-Differential fluid change
-Coolant check\change
-Spark plug and plug wire change
-Belt check\change
-Replace stretched throttle cable
-Check uJoints
-Brake drum check
-Brake fluid check
-Replace battery
-Replace wheels and tires
-Suspension check - Possible replace struts

Questions:
-What is required in servicing the transmission?
     -What type of fluid should I use? Synthetic? Mineral?
-Are there any detailed oil change guides available?
     -Should I use synthetic Oil?
     -I live in Kansas, winter weather is often below zero, what weight oil should I use?
-Would it be a good idea to change the coolant?
-For the differential fluid change, will the same fluid work on both the Dana 61 and 44 TTB?
     -Any recommended guide on how to do this?
-What should I look for in belt wear? Would it be a good idea to replace belts no matter how worn they are?
-The parking break is tied up and not working. Is there a common issue that causes this?
-Struts likely need to be replaced. Would it be a good idea to also replace leaf springs?
-Does the transfer case require any servicing?
-The oil pan seems to have a slight leak, not enough to drip, enough to make the oil pan perpetually slick.

Please forgive me if this information is already organized on the site.

Thank you,

mattmo wrote

Questions:
-What is required in servicing the transmission?
     -What type of fluid should I use? Synthetic? Mineral?
-Are there any detailed oil change guides available?
     -Should I use synthetic Oil?
     -I live in Kansas, winter weather is often below zero, what weight oil should I use?
-Would it be a good idea to change the coolant?
-For the differential fluid change, will the same fluid work on both the Dana 61 and 44 TTB?
     -Any recommended guide on how to do this?
-What should I look for in belt wear? Would it be a good idea to replace belts no matter how worn they are?
-The parking break is tied up and not working. Is there a common issue that causes this?
-Struts likely need to be replaced. Would it be a good idea to also replace leaf springs?
-Does the transfer case require any servicing?
-The oil pan seems to have a slight leak, not enough to drip, enough to make the oil pan perpetually slick.

Matt - Good questions.  Let me try to answer them.

The lubricant specs are shown in Specifications/Lubricant Specifications.  You can see the Ford spec for both the manual transmission, transfer case, and the differential.  But, there are a number of different manual transmission lubes.  And given that you are in the northern reaches of Kansas, you might want a synthetic  lube to make shifting easier.  As for changing that lube, I'm pretty sure the transmission has a drain plug and a fill plug.  But before you pull the drain plug, make sure you can get the fill plug out.  Then, when you drain and replace the drain plug you fill up to the level of the fill plug.

Yes, you should replace the coolant.  It needs to be done every three years or so, and you probably don't know when it was last changed.

As for the diff's, unless one of yours has limited slip, both take the same lube.

By "struts" I assume you mean the shocks.  Yes, you may want to change them, but I'd do a bounce test to see if they appear to be working.  And, look to see if one is leaking.  But probably no need to replace the springs.

Yes, do the t-case.

On the oil pan, check to see if the bolts are loose.  BUT, they shouldn't be really torqued down with all your force.  They are small and should only be a bit past "snug".

Belts should be replaced if they are cracking.  Roll them over and look at the sides for cracks.

On the parking brake, sometimes the cables themselves rust up and won't slide.  Sometimes people put the brakes together incorrectly.  Check the cables first.

Did I get them all?  What did I miss something?

This is an excellent reply! Thank you!

-Do you have any specific recommendations for synthetic/regular?
-How about weight? In the cold does 5w30 make much of a difference vs 10w30?
-What is typically required for a t-case service?

Thanks again,

There's synthetic manual transmission lube that might be a good solution for you.  Here's a Google search for that, and you can see several options.  Royal Purple is a well thought of option.

But I think you may be also asking about synthetic engine oil.  I like it, and I usually use Mobil 1.  But I stay with 10W30, although I doubt 5W30 would hurt anything.

The t-case uses ATF, and all you need to do is to drain it and then refill.  But again, break the fill plug open before you drain it.  Here you can use synthetic if you want, but ATF is pretty thin, so I'm not sure it is worthwhile.

I'd go a bit farther than Gary.

Cold starts in subzero weather are brutal on bearings and lifters. (in fact, I lost an engine to this)

If you're not using a block heater I'd consider some of the low temp diesel synthetics.
Like 0W-40 with plenty of ZDDP.
Expensive oil is still cheaper than a new engine.