Little Blue 82

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Re: Little Blue 82

Ray Cecil
Dave, what did you mean "I could use the headlight doors..."

Are you asking for my used stuff?

1988 F250 Supercab Longbed 7.3 IDI, C6, 1356, GEARVENDORS, 4.10 Sterling with autolocker

1986 F150 302, C6, 9" 2.75, Wood Flatbed


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Re: Little Blue 82

FuzzFace2
Ray Cecil wrote
Dave, what did you mean "I could use the headlight doors..."

Are you asking for my used stuff?
No when you said you had a few beers and ordered stuff I said next time you do that I could used new doors & grille. LOL
I have 2 sets of doors & 2 grilles to pick from but I know each set had issues with a broken tab here and there and same for the grilles.

Other than a quick look over when I was making the front bumper and just place the doors & grille in place held with 1 screw each I have not looked that close at them.
I am also far from needing them and why I have not looked them over yet.
I do have a kit to repair broken tabs and it works pretty good as I used it to repair the dash bezel on my 70 AMC Javelin

Maybe by the time I need them I will have hit the lottery and can get new shinny ones like you LOL
Thanks
Dave ----
Dave G.
81 F100 flare side 300 six / AA OD / NP435 / 2.75 gear
http://cars.grantskingdom1.com/index.php/1980-Ford-F100?page=1
81 F100 style side 300 six/SROD parts truck -RIP
http://cars.grantskingdom1.com/index.php/1981-Ford-F100
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Re: Little Blue 82

Ray Cecil
Dave, I gotcha now.

Anyway, got just about everything back togather tonight.

I noticed my old lower hose did not have the anti-collapse spring. Where can I find one of those?

Also, I tried turning the engine over to see if I could get it to sputter a little before hooking up the radiator and all that. It turned over several time but seemed like it was laboring. Threw the charger on it for ten minutes. Got nothing at the starter but the sound of it trying to turn. Starter solenoid is functioning, you can hear it click. I wonder if the battery is just weak from sitting? I checked the date 8/15. So its coming up on 4 years old. I should probably just go ahead and replace it to eliminate that as the issue. If it persists, I will go ahead and do cables. If that doesnt fix it, maybe the starter is shot.
1988 F250 Supercab Longbed 7.3 IDI, C6, 1356, GEARVENDORS, 4.10 Sterling with autolocker

1986 F150 302, C6, 9" 2.75, Wood Flatbed


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Re: Little Blue 82

Gary Lewis
Administrator
You might want to try the voltage drop test instead of just replacing things.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow
Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/ZF5/3.55's, D60 w/Ox locker & 10.25 Sterling/Trutrac, Blue Top & Borgeson, & EEC-V MAF/SEFI

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Re: Little Blue 82

Ray Cecil
Funny you should mention that. I recently has a milwakee sawzall not working and discovered how to do a voltage drop test to fix that.

I could do a voltage drop test, BUT, after inspecting things further last night, I noticed the battery cables looked pretty corroded at the the crimps at the starter solenoid.

Its probably wise to replace those cables before they leave me stranded. I usually do this with most vehicles I own that are older anyways. I have learned through experience that battery cables and batteries work best when new, and when all the ground points are clean and make good contact.

I will start with cables. The last bullnose I had left me stranded in owasso. I had to walk to autozone for a battery cable.
1988 F250 Supercab Longbed 7.3 IDI, C6, 1356, GEARVENDORS, 4.10 Sterling with autolocker

1986 F150 302, C6, 9" 2.75, Wood Flatbed


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Re: Little Blue 82

Gary Lewis
Administrator
I would agree that if you've found an obvious problem then it is time to fix that.  Then, if that doesn't fix the overall issue, it is probably time to look further via voltage-drop testing.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow
Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/ZF5/3.55's, D60 w/Ox locker & 10.25 Sterling/Trutrac, Blue Top & Borgeson, & EEC-V MAF/SEFI

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Re: Little Blue 82

Ray Cecil
Still looking for a rad hose collapse spring....any ideas? Are they necessary? I would think so.
1988 F250 Supercab Longbed 7.3 IDI, C6, 1356, GEARVENDORS, 4.10 Sterling with autolocker

1986 F150 302, C6, 9" 2.75, Wood Flatbed


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Re: Little Blue 82

FuzzFace2
Like you I just replace the battery cables when the car / truck is new to me.
They are cheap and yes you don't want to get stuck some where because of them.

As for the lower hose spring I bought one of them fit all hoses. You know the ugly coil type hose.
I pulled the spring out of it, think I had to cut it to fit then the fun of trying to install it in the formed lower hose and not have the spring flatten out.

Dave ----
Dave G.
81 F100 flare side 300 six / AA OD / NP435 / 2.75 gear
http://cars.grantskingdom1.com/index.php/1980-Ford-F100?page=1
81 F100 style side 300 six/SROD parts truck -RIP
http://cars.grantskingdom1.com/index.php/1981-Ford-F100
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Re: Little Blue 82

ArdWrknTrk
Administrator
This post was updated on .
In reply to this post by Ray Cecil
I'm not so sure, unless the radiator is severely restricted, the whole system is under 13(?)psi.

The water pump is only acting as a circulator. It's input and output are always the same in a closed loop system.
Liquids are close to incompressible so where is the output going to go in order for the 'suction' side to develop enough vacuum to collapse the hose?

That said, my lower hose does have a spring.

*Stupid autocorrect. Incomprehensible... LOL
 Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake.
Too much other stuff to mention.
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Re: Little Blue 82

Gary Lewis
Administrator
I agree - if the system is under pressure it is hard to imagine the hose collapsing.  Perhaps it happens when the system isn't full and/or isn't yet under pressure?

Just one of the many things that don't seem to make sense.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow
Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/ZF5/3.55's, D60 w/Ox locker & 10.25 Sterling/Trutrac, Blue Top & Borgeson, & EEC-V MAF/SEFI

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Re: Little Blue 82

ArdWrknTrk
Administrator
Like I said it's a closed loop.

BUT if the radiator is clogged and there is some air entrained in the system I could see the possibility.

No harm in a belt and suspenders approach.
 Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake.
Too much other stuff to mention.
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Re: Little Blue 82

Ray Cecil
I tend to agree with the statements above.

If the system heats up and expells a little overflow, but cannot retrieve that overflow as it is cooling down, it would produce a vacuum. I think the greater concern is when the engine is hot and the lower hose collapses due to a blockage in the radiator. Well, I have a brand new 2 row aluminum radiator, so I dont think it will be an issue. Id still like to find a spring though, a stainless one preferably.
1988 F250 Supercab Longbed 7.3 IDI, C6, 1356, GEARVENDORS, 4.10 Sterling with autolocker

1986 F150 302, C6, 9" 2.75, Wood Flatbed


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Re: Little Blue 82

Ray Cecil
In reply to this post by ArdWrknTrk
Hey, who was it that had the 5.9 cummins in their bullnose at the 2018 show?

I saw a youtube video of a turbocharged 4bt swapped bullnose and the guy stated that the 4bt bolts in perfectly using the 300 straight six mounts with no modification. Claimed 30+ mpg....

4bt would be much lighter then 5.9.

https://youtu.be/SBrDBZ02OuY
1988 F250 Supercab Longbed 7.3 IDI, C6, 1356, GEARVENDORS, 4.10 Sterling with autolocker

1986 F150 302, C6, 9" 2.75, Wood Flatbed


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Re: Little Blue 82

FuzzFace2
I hear what you guys are saying once the motor builds heat and PSI it should not be an issue but the factory had to do it for a reason right?

I have seen the lower hose get sucked closed when just raising the RPM but don't remember if the cap was on or off so no PSI in the system.

I know with my project the old lower hose did not have a spring, I wanted a spring in the new lower hose so I had to buy a hose with one in it and remove it to use in my formed hose.
Dave ---
Dave G.
81 F100 flare side 300 six / AA OD / NP435 / 2.75 gear
http://cars.grantskingdom1.com/index.php/1980-Ford-F100?page=1
81 F100 style side 300 six/SROD parts truck -RIP
http://cars.grantskingdom1.com/index.php/1981-Ford-F100
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Re: Little Blue 82

Ray Cecil
Tonight I got the new battery cables installed. I was surprised to see that the negative cable mounts to the frame and is actually grounding the frame, then continues onto the starter bolt. The cable from solenoid to starter was a bizznatch to get at with that new header installed.

After all that, it cranked over great, and I got it to fire a few seconds.

Now, I need to work on finishing the lower radiator hose, fill up the cooling system, learn to tune that carb, timing, and finish the exhaust. 300 six sounds kinda cool with open header.
1988 F250 Supercab Longbed 7.3 IDI, C6, 1356, GEARVENDORS, 4.10 Sterling with autolocker

1986 F150 302, C6, 9" 2.75, Wood Flatbed


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Re: Little Blue 82

FuzzFace2
Ray Cecil wrote
Tonight I got the new battery cables installed. I was surprised to see that the negative cable mounts to the frame and is actually grounding the frame, then continues onto the starter bolt. The cable from solenoid to starter was a bizznatch to get at with that new header installed.

After all that, it cranked over great, and I got it to fire a few seconds.

Now, I need to work on finishing the lower radiator hose, fill up the cooling system, learn to tune that carb, timing, and finish the exhaust. 300 six sounds kinda cool with open header.
That cable that does the frame & block ground is pretty neat.
I had to make mine by removing that lug from the old cable and installing it on the new.

Also using that same frame ground bolt the starter + cable should have a loop cable holder there to keep that cable from hitting the hot exh.

Because I still have the dash apart and the lights are on I disconnect the battery ground side when ever the truck is not running. When I have to move it I just place the cable on the post, no tightening and it cranks right up. Amazing how it cranks with new cables.

I had a Toyota L/C with a 238 six and header. It was a 3-2 outlet and a shop make a small Y pipe then 2.5 pipe to the rear using a turbo muffler. You would get to a certain spot in the RPM and this thing would make all kinds of noise out the pipe but other wise had a nice sound.

Good luck on that lower hose, did you see how I fixed it above? so you can hear it run open headers
Dave ----
Dave G.
81 F100 flare side 300 six / AA OD / NP435 / 2.75 gear
http://cars.grantskingdom1.com/index.php/1980-Ford-F100?page=1
81 F100 style side 300 six/SROD parts truck -RIP
http://cars.grantskingdom1.com/index.php/1981-Ford-F100
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Re: Little Blue 82

Ray Cecil
Dave, yes, the starter cable holder and ground lug are still there. I used propane to remove the solder on the old cable to frame lug. I feared melting the new cable insulation, so I did not use solder on the new cable, I just stripped enough insulation to re-crimp the old lug onto the new cable.

The negative battery cable to frame and to block I bought extra long. 60". Because of the header, I wanted to be able to route it far enough away from the header, then come in at a 90degree angle. So, basically, after the cable grounds to the frame lug, I routed it back away from the exhaust up under the heater box. From there, it come in perpendicular to the drive train line. This minimizes the amount of cable being exposed to high temps.

Probably going to wrap the header later. I know we had this discussion already. But as cheap as the header was, if the wrap destroys it, I will spring for a stainless header next time. I dont thing it will degrade like some have suggested. I wont be driving it in rain, snow, salt or mud. It should last long enough.
1988 F250 Supercab Longbed 7.3 IDI, C6, 1356, GEARVENDORS, 4.10 Sterling with autolocker

1986 F150 302, C6, 9" 2.75, Wood Flatbed


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Re: Little Blue 82

Ray Cecil
Took it for a test spin. No leaks so far. Man is it loud with open headers. Shifted fine but still need to fix slop in shifter.

Brake booster is next.

Carb is seeping fuel out somewhere. I may need to replace some seals on it.

Needs MUFFLERS
1988 F250 Supercab Longbed 7.3 IDI, C6, 1356, GEARVENDORS, 4.10 Sterling with autolocker

1986 F150 302, C6, 9" 2.75, Wood Flatbed


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Re: Little Blue 82

Gary Lewis
Administrator
Yippee!!!  

On the carb, if I remember right, the YF/YFA have a fabric accelerator pump that can leak.

Magnaflow mufflers have a nice deep note.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow
Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/ZF5/3.55's, D60 w/Ox locker & 10.25 Sterling/Trutrac, Blue Top & Borgeson, & EEC-V MAF/SEFI

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Re: Little Blue 82

Ray Cecil
Hmmmm...now I have a lifter ticking.

Can you put new lifters on an old cam?

Anyway, I will pull valve cover and make sure the rockers are adjusted properly.

I hope I didnt screw something up somehow.

1988 F250 Supercab Longbed 7.3 IDI, C6, 1356, GEARVENDORS, 4.10 Sterling with autolocker

1986 F150 302, C6, 9" 2.75, Wood Flatbed


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