Introducing Myself

It cleared up for me when I refreshed the page.
And I edited my post, so please kill these two.

Thanks!

Just coming back to this after being preempted by other matters for the day.  Will get back to you on the more important stuff tomorrow, but the off-topic is easy and about all I want to tackle right now, after having my pc go all BSOD on me while putting finishing touches on a well-crafted response on the weightier matters :(

I am originally from Ventura,  which is just down from Santa Barbara as you travel 101 from north to south.  When I lived there, we always considered ourselves to be in So Cal, and SF to be part of Nor Cal.  Now that I am further north, I find that folks here consider this Central Cal, and like you said, Eureka, Fr Bragg, Mendocino to be Nor Cal.  But my old notions die hard, I suppose.

Brian

My ex-wife was born in San Francisco proper and that's the way she spoke of it.
Of course, she moved out here when she was 6-7.

If you lived at the South Pole everything is north of you...


Sorry to hear about your crash.      
It really sucks to lose a bunch of work, and sometimes even data, depending on system and cause.

I was raised in Kansas, in which the marker for the geographic center of the lower 48 states resides.  We considered ourselves Mid-westerners.  But people talk about Chicago as being "mid-west"?  

Anyway, computer crashes are a huge pain.  Hope you get the data back.

Jim - ok, as stated in the off-topic response, no worries about the delayed response from you.  

And no, the only lost data from the BSOD event last night was my thoughtfully composed and nearly complete response to your last note from the 3rd.  Let me see if I can do it justice:

1.  You mentioned the yellow wire coming from the old 2g plug and the instruction sheet.  That instruction says "if small wire exists, splice it into the yellow "S" wire.   You had referenced it being a "B" wire, perhaps because the image quality is not that great(?)  Not sure how that would impact your advise but thought it should be clarified.

2.  This truck is 302 5.0 EFI.  Looking at the wiring diagram you shared for the 86 it explains for me why the white wire coming off the b terminal plug wasn't connected to anything(aftermarket misrepair, perhaps?)

Ok, that's not everything I had in last nights aborted response, but it's all I can muster with a slight hang-over.

Thanks, Brian

Jim and Gary - looks like both of you are monitoring this thread.  Hopefully the both of you ganging up on me will finally get me over the hump.   Every time I think I have it, I go back to the truck and lose my confidence.   I believe the key to understanding everything is making a diagram of the current situation, so I sat down and drew up a diagram of the wiring of the 2g as I found it.  Perhaps it will help you understand some of my confusion.  And yes, it is accurate.  And, no, there is no "I" wire coming directly off the regulator.

Brian

Gary - So you too are familiar with the different reference points for a place depending on where are you now.  I have a vague recollection of you being somewhere on the east coast, maybe something you said about Newport(?)

Brian

Are you saying there was no (I) wire in the old 2G regulator plug?

Because there is obviously a Green/Red (I) wire in the new alternator/harness you pictured.

Where you say 'this lead was not connected to anything' , that is the stator wire.
If you don't have a choke or something else to connect it to, then you don't need it with the 2G.

But with the 3G it loops right around and into the stator socket.

You will need to find the (I) wire somewhere in your harness (or find another source of 'ignition on' voltage) and connect it to the green wire of the new regulator plug.

This is what basically 'wakes up' the 3G and provides a current to get the windings creating power when the alternator spins.

I hope I haven't dumbed this down too much.
I don't want to seem like I'm infantalizing anyone.
I'm just trying to put it in simple terms so there is no confusion.

I hope this helps, and please! If it doesn't make sense, let me know so I can try to clarify.

Your dark 'harness to dash' arrow (37Y in the schematic) will now connect directly to the 'hot' side of the solenoid.

ALL the other wiring you pictured goes in the trash.

Yes, the new alternator does have the "I" wire - it is the old 2g alt that does not.  You say I will need to find the "I" and you have hit the nail on the head.  Clearly something in this old set up is serving as the wire going over to the ignition, but what?   Could it be the small yellow wire coming off the splice point from the B terminal?  It has to be either that or the red wire coming off the connector that splices the "A" wire from the regulator and the orange/black coming from the B terminal.

Your second response says the the harness now goes to the batt post on the solenoid.  I think that is the same thing I was saying about splicing the existing 12 ga yellow wire from that connector over to the batt post on the solenoid.  

Brian

Well then we're all on the same page.

Yellow though, (by Ford's wiring convention) should be hot at all times, and not -in fact- switched.

I don't know that for certain, given the number of configurations during these transition years. (1G to 2G, Bullnose to Bricknose)

I don't know if there's a schematic with 2G and ammeter available.

But we will figure it out, together.

I misspoke earlier from misreading my own diagram.  It is the "A" wire that goes to the connection with the orange/black shunt wire.  Coming off that connection is a red wire going over to the harness plug.  The green "S" wire currently goes directly to the harness plug.  This wire position on the new alt is yellow stator wire going back onto alternator.

So, you have no stator wire in the regulator plug.

And you have nothing connected to the stator wire of the output plug.

And you have no choke to connect them to.

Seems to make sense.

I've never seen this configuration before, but I haven't seen every truck that rolled off the line either.

***(A) is alternator output, and goes to the regulator so the regulator 'knows' the system voltage of the truck.
On the 3G this 'sense' wire comes directly from the output stud.***

So you have the green wire to connect to your new harness.
And you have the new charge cable to connect to the new fuse.

Seems like you're all set!  

Well, I spent the day working on WelderScott's truck, as you will have seen in WHYDTYTT, and it looks like y'all worked out the issues on the wiring.  Well done!  

Oh, I missed this.  

Schwabber wrote

Gary - So you too are familiar with the different reference points for a place depending on where are you now.  I have a vague recollection of you being somewhere on the east coast, maybe something you said about Newport(?)

Brian

Oh, I missed this.  We have lived in many places: Wichita, KS; Ponca City, OK; London, England; Houston, Texas; Wilmington, DE; Chicago, IL; and finally Skiatook, OK.  I say finally because I do not intend to move again, although some year the kids will move us to a rest home.  

But hopefully not for many years as I way too much stuff I want to do, places I want to see, etc.  

One Clarification about the comment that "everything else goes in the trash."  Currently there are 4 wires going into that connector:

Yellow power that came from the output wire in the old alt.  This is retained.

Green wire.  This is connected to the green coming from the regulator

Red.  This came from fuse link coming from the "A" terminal on the reg plug.  Do I just cut it down cap it at harness?

Small yellow 16 gauge wire. Cut down and Cap this off, correct?

I'm saying that in your drawing the only thing you keep is the (dark arrow) yellow wire that goes to the ignition switch.
That can get an eye lug and go to either the hot side of the starter relay or the relay side of the 175A fuse.
The fusible link now going to the relay gets trashed.
I don't see anything else connected to the truck?
...
You say there's no (I), but (I) -GN/R- does go to the regulator pigtail of your new harness.

If your setup looks like Gary's schematic on the bottom of pg.2, then the yellow/lt green and red/orange wires that go to the ammeter can be unplugged at C610 and don't need to be terminated.
I don't have an ammeter and it's possible that C610 is up in the dash. If that's the case then just short those two together and put them out of the way for now.

The ammeter didn't work on a good day and 130A would be so far off the scale it would have a meltdown. (If there were a shunt/resistor between them)

If you want a gauge in the cab, Rocketman innovations can convert it to a voltmeter for you.
It will come back 'as new' with the voltage points set wherever you like on the D--C scale.
You then need to ground one side and connect the other to switched power, so it isn't a drain.
I think Gary discusses this in the conversion tutorial.

Wow, I see what might be a major problem in your plan.

I was just looking over this thread from the beginning (last Sepetember?) and see you say "302 efi"

Then I look at the picture of the alternator you purchased.
... it looks, from here, to have 8.25" mounting centers.

If you have a serpentine belt on your truck with the cast bracket and the alternator on top you need a 7" C-C 130A alternator, (from an early '90's 3.0l Taurus/Sable) and you need to grind some out of that bracket to make the larger (148mm) body fit.

The 8.25" works fine with V-belts, and most Bullnose are, but if yours is not you need to exchange that alternator (if my suspicions are correct)

Sorry for my verbose repl*lies.
I'm autistic (aspergers) so that makes me very observant and REALLY aware of any incongruity, and I notice this now.....

Anyway, check the mounting distance of both old & new alternators.
Maybe you were holding back for a reason you didn't even know!

* Damn autocorrect

Jim, the alternator is bottom mounted on this particular truck.  I have it in and it looks pretty good so far.  I did note that that mounting ear that connects to the adjustment arm hits that arm flush such that I have to push the arm back an eight of an inch to get the arm in place.  I wonder would that pressure cause any deflection in the belt and should I take that arm off and bang some of the bend out if it before I proceed any further.

I am pretty verbose and over-explain stuff too, or at least am conscience of the feeling other people think that.  SO, no worries on that score.  I am a bit worried about the 2 remaining yellow and red wires...

The truck is pretty much all back together.  I plan to turn the switch when I get home from work later today.  I plan to have my neighbor and his fire extinguisher close at hand...

Brian

Having to bend the adjuster *arm is covered in the tutorial.

This is because the 3G ear is  3/4" thick instead of 1/2" on 1&2G's.

Cool, you're ready to enjoy your new charging system!