I may have found a Bullnose to buy, but a few concerns/questions

Been looking for a clean rust free example and may have found one that I really like.  Two concerns the seller mentioned give me a bit of a pause.  Not big deals in the scheme of things, but I wanted to asked the experienced collective here how big of an issue these may be:

1. The tilt column was once loose and after supposedly discovering that the bearing was unserviceable the "fix" was to lock in the column in some manner, which also eliminated the turn signal canceling.  I don't know the specifics of what was done, but I'm concerned a bit about this and the safety of the whole thing.  Is this a difficult and expensive fix?

2. This truck is originally a 302 EFI with AOD.  I'm told a previous owner removed the emissions stuff.  I don't know exactly what that entailed but the truck supposedly runs great and doesn't have an emissions light that stays on after the truck starts.  Is this a common modification and can it be done and still allow the ECU to keep everything happy?  Luckily my state doesn't have emissions testing, so it shouldn't be a big deal if it was done properly.

The truck is an 86 XLT, Lariat Shortbox RWD.  Rust free southern truck - very clean and dry.  140K miles.  I'm having it inspected on Saturday.  Anything to particularly look for?

I can't speak specifically about the tilt column, but I did rebuilt a non-tilt column last year and was able to find all of the parts I needed with a little scrounging. There are companies out there that specialize in rebuilding these columns, and you will see fully reconditioned ones on Ebay from time to time. I've seen prices in the area of $350 to rebuild you existing column, and I've seen rebuilt/restored columns on Ebay between $500-$750 depending on how rare they are.

Nice looking truck. Man that frame and floor pan sure look nice. They don't look like that around here.

Looks like a "custom hot air intake".
If I had it I would get rid of that.

It's certainly clean, but I don't like the air filters, plug wire routing (or color), alternator, or the lack of a hood-to-cowl seal.  The throttle body plumbing is creative, but I'd try to switch to hose barbs instead of threaded nipples.

1. This shows the columns:



I can't imagine a bearing problem that would necessitate locking the tilt &/or damaging the turn cam.  But if the wheel feels relatively solid, it's probably OK.

2. The EEC only monitors EGR & 2ndry air; I can see the EGR, so I guess it was the smog pump that was deleted.  In any case, I'd put them all back into working order - it's not difficult or expensive (unless they scrapped the cats), and it will keep the engine running better.

I think the others have addressed most things, and I agree with them.  But on the EFI, I suspect that what's been done is to eliminate the AIR system that injects air into the exhaust ahead of the catalytic converter.  I don't see the AIR pump, but I do see the EGR valve and it is wired.

If that's all that's been done then I think the computer will be happy and won't throw codes.  And if the Emissions light comes on for a few seconds when you start the truck and then goes off it must be happy.

Thank you everybody - If I want to add an air box, anything you all could recommend?  This truck has put on 49K miles in the past 10 years in the state shown in the photo.  This was in SC, where it get's plenty warm.  It seems to work (:

66gtk wrote

If I want to add an air box, anything you all could recommend?

Factory would be my first choice.

Figured that I would add that the 86 models did not have a check engine light. Be sure to read codes from the ECM.

And yes, that air intake is horrendous! Might be a sign of other "upgrades" the previous owner has attempted.

Yipes!  If they didn't have a check engine light then what I said is WRONG, and you really need to pull the codes.

And, I agree with Steve and Ray - get a stock air inlet system.  They are probably available in most salvages, and the ones from the early 90's, like 93, have a cold air inlet tube that goes up to the radiator support.

Otherwise you are pulling HOT air into the intake, and that's not good for power.  In fact, where is the air inlet temp sensor on this?  Is it still there?

Gary Lewis wrote

...the ones from the early 90's, like 93, have a cold air inlet tube that goes up to the radiator support.

All factory air intakes are cold-air.  My 2nd pic shows the one that belongs in his truck.

Gary Lewis wrote

...where is the air inlet temp sensor on this?

Screwed into the #2 intake runner, near the injector.