How to get rid of the milk shake?

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How to get rid of the milk shake?

FuzzFace2
Its not as bad as it sounds ........ I hope
81 F100 flare side 300 six stock other than EFI exh manifolds feeding into factory pipe & muffler.

I have a 195* stat installed, always have.
I drive the truck for 37+ miles, about 45 mins, each way to / from work on the high way.
The heat will cook you out so I would say its getting out to temp even if the gauge reads low.

The milk shake is on the under side of oil fill cap, dip stick tube but I can see the level at the bottom of the stick, and I now saw it in the hose for the breather going from air filter to valve cover.
The last I checked the PVC, new when I got the truck back on the road, was working as it should.
I do see more condensate smoke out the tail pipe than I think is normal.

I would say the motor is not getting up to temp and / or running long enough to "boil" the water out but I don't think that is so.
I did a compression test when I first got the truck and at the time thought is was good.

So what am I over looking to keep this from happing?
What do I need to look at deeper if working the way it should?

Thanks for any help you can give
Dave ----
Dave G.
81 F100 flare side 300 six / AA OD / NP435 / 2.75 gear
http://cars.grantskingdom1.com/index.php/1980-Ford-F100?page=1
81 F100 style side 300 six/SROD parts truck -RIP
http://cars.grantskingdom1.com/index.php/1981-Ford-F100
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Re: How to get rid of the milk shake?

Rembrant
Dave,

I am absolutely no help, but I'm anxious to hear what others might have to say.

I remember back in the day though...I was working pumping gas and a little in the bays at a Texaco on the highway. Late 80's-ish. The old Crown Vic's and Ford trucks at the time, the dipsticks and oil fill caps were always covered in white/grey slime. I could hardly check the oil on some of them. All I'm saying is, I remember it being fairly common one time with the Fords.
1994 F150 4x2 Flareside. 5.0 w/MAF, 4R70W, stock.
1984 F150 4X2 Flareside. Mild 302 w/ 5spd. Sold.
1980 F150 4X4 Flareside. 300i6 w/ 5spd. Sold in 2021.
1980 F100 4X2 Flareside. 351w/2bbl w/NP435. Sold in 1995

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Re: How to get rid of the milk shake?

Gary Lewis
Administrator
In reply to this post by FuzzFace2
Dave - What oil are you using?  I don't know if there are "good" oils that don't foam and "bad" oils that do foam, but maybe?

And have you put a thermometer on the thermostat housing to know that it really is getting up to temp?

Otherwise, I'm out of ideas.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow
Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/ZF5/3.55's, D60 w/Ox locker & 10.25 Sterling/Trutrac, Blue Top & Borgeson, & EEC-V MAF/SEFI

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Re: How to get rid of the milk shake?

old55pete
You dident mention it Dave, so I am going to ask. Does the exhaust smell sweet? Are you using coolant?
Steve
86 Bronco, XLT, 5.0 EFI, EEC IV, AOD, IFS, limited slip front and rear, 3.08 gears, Tilt steering, factory AC
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Re: How to get rid of the milk shake?

ArdWrknTrk
Administrator
^^^ This.

It is hard to imagine condensation given the way Dave drives his truck.

I also hate to think what is happening when the milkshake has time to settle, and he first starts his truck, sucking a big slug of water or coolant off the bottom of the oil pan.
Water is NOT a good lubricant for engine parts.

You might get some of that reagent used to test for hydrocarbons in the radiator.
It only takes a cap full of coolant and a drop or two of test solution to see if there is a leak.
 Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake.
Too much other stuff to mention.
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Re: How to get rid of the milk shake?

old55pete
Just pull the oil drain plug after it has been sitting and see if coolant comes out first. If not stuff the plug back in and top the oil off.
Steve
86 Bronco, XLT, 5.0 EFI, EEC IV, AOD, IFS, limited slip front and rear, 3.08 gears, Tilt steering, factory AC
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Re: How to get rid of the milk shake?

FuzzFace2
In reply to this post by ArdWrknTrk
Thanks for the replies and lets see if I cant answer them.

Cory, I want to say I have seen it posted the Ford six may have this issue but I cant believe it in my case with the driving I do with the truck.

Gary Lewis wrote
Dave - What oil are you using?  I don't know if there are "good" oils that don't foam and "bad" oils that do foam, but maybe?

And have you put a thermometer on the thermostat housing to know that it really is getting up to temp?

Otherwise, I'm out of ideas.
It was a name brand think high mileage 10w-30 oil.
I have changed it 1 once since its been on the road and I put a little ATF down the dip stick tube to "flush it out" and ran it for a bit in the drive to clean the inside before the change.

I have not put the temp gun to it but will the next time I run the truck.

old55pete wrote
You dident mention it Dave, so I am going to ask. Does the exhaust smell sweet? Are you using coolant?
No sweet smell from it burning coolant and yes I do run a 50/50 pre-mix.

I have only needed to "top off" because of a lose heater hose clamp at the heater bypass valve as I had seen a spot under my truck when parked at work. In the garage at home its parked on carb board because of oil leaks.

ArdWrknTrk wrote
^^^ This.

It is hard to imagine condensation given the way Dave drives his truck.

I also hate to think what is happening when the milkshake has time to settle, and he first starts his truck, sucking a big slug of water or coolant off the bottom of the oil pan.
Water is NOT a good lubricant for engine parts.

You might get some of that reagent used to test for hydrocarbons in the radiator.
It only takes a cap full of coolant and a drop or two of test solution to see if there is a leak.
I don't think it's getting water sitting on the bottom of the pan or even mixing with the oil.
I say this because when I check the oil level I can see the level as only oil.
If there was water in the oil when running I would think the oil level would be milk shake and not show a level like I get now.

The oil is dirty and my son wanted to change it, no filter and was to tired to go get one.
I will do another ATF flush when I change the oil and note the oil used.
I will also see about getting a coolant CO checker to see if there is anything there that is not really bad to show up as over heating etc.

Thanks again
Dave ----
Dave G.
81 F100 flare side 300 six / AA OD / NP435 / 2.75 gear
http://cars.grantskingdom1.com/index.php/1980-Ford-F100?page=1
81 F100 style side 300 six/SROD parts truck -RIP
http://cars.grantskingdom1.com/index.php/1981-Ford-F100
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Re: How to get rid of the milk shake?

ArdWrknTrk
Administrator
Well, if your son pulls the plug and gets a slug of water first, he'll know.

If the coolant isn't going down and the oil isn't going up its nothing major.
But it does seem odd you have condensation in your climate, with the highway driving you do.

Hopefully it IS only some condensation, but I would check the PCV all the way to the intake regardless.
I've seen tubes and hoses clogged and the valve still sounds like a maraca.
Just blow through it.
 Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake.
Too much other stuff to mention.
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Re: How to get rid of the milk shake?

CliftonK
In reply to this post by FuzzFace2
If your PCV valve is correct and working properly you should be able to read around 3 psi on the dipstick tube.  Also, if you pinch off the vacuum line to the PCV valve your idle should only drop 50-80 rpm.
Tessa - 1982 F-100 - 300 6 with a mystery build, C6, new(to her) forged front end and not-so-stock emissions wearing a 1985 F-150 Texas Chainsaw style.
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Re: How to get rid of the milk shake?

FuzzFace2
Well after the weekly trash run I did a little fussing on the truck.
First I have been getting a lot of pinging again, most likely junk gas, but wanted to see where the timing was set at. All I had for a timing light is my crappy Flaming River flash light battery powered one I got for the drag car, no power in the engine bay on drag car for a normal timing light.

Well not being able to see any marks we (son was helping) had to find & mark the balancer and a few of the points on the number panel.
Son said at idle of about 800, no vacuum, it was about 16* to 18* that he could see, no wonder why it was pinging!
Bumped it back to about 10* to 12*, factory is 6*. I still have a little pining so will bump it back a little more just to be safe till I can get a good dial back timing light.

CliftonK wrote
If your PCV valve is correct and working properly you should be able to read around 3 psi on the dipstick tube.  Also, if you pinch off the vacuum line to the PCV valve your idle should only drop 50-80 rpm.
When you say "3psi" should that be 3hg as in vacuum?

I did check the PVC and it seams to be working as it was pulling a vacuum.
I put a few wraps of tape around the PVC as it was a little lose in the grommet.
I also checked to see if I was getting a vacuum on the fresh air hose into the motor on the valve cover. I can feel a vacuum but it is not great.

I also seem to have a little more blow by than I would like. It is the first time I had the PCV out of the cover with motor running but other wise the motor runs great and had good compression when I checked when I first bought the truck.

I also have a AFR gauge but had a few honey do jobs so will have to install it to see where the carb tune is at.
More work is needed to dial in the motor better.
Dave ----
Dave G.
81 F100 flare side 300 six / AA OD / NP435 / 2.75 gear
http://cars.grantskingdom1.com/index.php/1980-Ford-F100?page=1
81 F100 style side 300 six/SROD parts truck -RIP
http://cars.grantskingdom1.com/index.php/1981-Ford-F100