Heat Shield For Starter?

Hi everyone,

I just wanted to get your thoughts on shielding the starter on my 351W.

The starter is a newly-reconditioned unit and the engine has aftermarket headers.

SCENARIO - If I've been making multiple stops (engine off) within a short amount of time (say, over the course of an hour), it starts to crank and then sounds like the battery is getting drained (battery is charging and battery is also new. Cables to the starter are "ok"). However, the truck HAS started each time.

By comparison, the truck starts almost straight away when cold (two pumps of the gas)...

Is heat the issue? I've read that it can be a problem with the Windsor engines.

Sounds like heat soak to me.
I just purchased a DEI Versa shield for the starter on my 460 with headers. Haven't installed it yet (or even fired up the rebuilt 460) but it sounded like good insurance for my new starter. I believe Summit sells a shield for the full size starters (I bought the micro version) for right around $20.

Heat wrapping the header tube closest to the starter may be another option (if they aren't coated) but the starter shield is pretty simple to install so I'd lean towards that option.

Since you have a Windsor engine and automatic, you can get a starter for a 1990 Lincoln Town Car, it is the 302 engine but the starter is a PMGR style and is smaller, draws less current and the one on my 460 wil crank it hot with no problems. It does require a wiring change and as an added benefit does not weld the "high quality" Chineseum starter relay together.

I've always found that wrapping headers causes rot (unless they are NEVER driven in rain or snow.

A PMGR starter is considerably smaller than stock and every bit of room helps.

A new (not "good") cable could help.
--anything helps-.....

Keep heat away from that too.

Well, that's all I have to suggest.
Let's see how it turns out.

Yep - I've never wrapped any for that fear since around here, just looking at metal makes it rust so no reason to help it out.

Based on the install/wiring process alone, I am a big fan of the pmgr starters. So much more room and easy to clock them away from the exhaust. Although for $20 and a 5min install I'd still consider the shield at least until the current starter goes out. The shield could then be cut to work with the pmgr starter if desired.

Is your timing advanced far?

grumpin wrote

Is your timing advanced far?

I'd add, are sure the retard while cranking function of the ignition is working correctly?

I don't really know what you have in your engine. Maybe high compression?

Thanks everyone.

Compression is not super high - only about 9.5:1 and I'm not sure about the timing advance off-hand.

I love the idea of the PMGR starter (lighter, stronger) - thanks for sharing that tip. I think I'll try the shield and then upgrade when the existing starter fails.

Appreciate the help!

Here's the DEI one that just came in the mail today. It's pretty much what you'd expect. The full size version is something like 2 inches wider and 8 inches longer.
I don't know anything about the later model stock pmgr starter or how it's clocked but when the time comes I'd check out powermaster as an option. May be more $ but the clocking helped get mine away from the headers and still avoid the transmission cooling lines.

We used to use a Hi-C or tomato juice can back in the day.....

I keep hearing people talk about Powermaster starters, if it quits on the road, where do you find a replacement? When my original PMGR starter bought in 2003 finally decided it was done this year (16 years) I was able to go about 1 1/2 miles away to our local alternator, starter and battery supply house here in town and pick up a new one, exactly like the one I took off, even had the same Precision label on the box.

I remember when a Tilton mini starter was the only thing on the market.

Man, those things were pricey!    















There! I used Gary's emoji..

Powermaster, OEM, later model PMGR OEM... if any of them fail on the road, I'd say one would get any starter from wherever they could to get home :)
Changing the starter doesn't require any real changes to the wiring that would prevent swapping from one brand to another.
I don't know of too many people that would refuse to buy a store brand while stuck on the side of the road.

I understand at a high level what you are saying and I am all for buying local but I wouldn't not buy a good product just because I couldn't get it locally.

As another example, there are certain parts that I personally will only use motorcraft (like starter solenoid) but that doesn't mean if it failed on me while out somewhere that I wouldn't swap in a store brand to get me back home.

That's not to say that it's not a good idea to plan ahead. Years ago I swapped out my 65 Mustang's points to a Pertronix setup but I still keep a set of points in the glovebox so I can easily swap back if needed on the road.

Before you start band-aiding it, check everything more-carefully, and post pics.  It's more likely a battery terminal problem than anything else, and it's cheaper & better to fix it at the source than to try to make up for those problems downstream.  Click this & read all the captions:

kramttocs wrote

Powermaster, OEM, later model PMGR OEM...
Changing the starter doesn't require any real changes to the wiring that would prevent swapping from one brand to another.

changing from rocking pole to PMGR requires a trigger wire to the starter, and a live at all times starter cable.
Swapping an OEM starter on the side of the road would (at least) require moving things around.
.... Unless you were smart enough to ask for a starter for a '95.

kramttocs wrote

, there are certain parts that I personally will only use motorcraft (like starter solenoid) but that doesn't mean if it failed on me while out somewhere that I wouldn't swap in a store brand to get me back home.

Be careful.
I've learned many new 'facts' about "OEM" and "Motorcraft" parts in the past couple of days.
I'm afraid to use ANY parts now, for fear they will infect my truck.    

It doesn't require it (use a jumper and no difference to the truck wiring at all) but it is an option and no doubt easier on the fender solenoid. Either way, I still wouldn't consider this little wiring consideration to be a deal breaker. That said, everyone will need to decide that for themselves regarding what they feel comfortable with in an emergency situation.
Be careful of using Motorcraft parts??? Not saying they are what they used to be but (knock on wood) they've always served me better than house brand. I am intrigued by what you are referring to - care to elaborate?

My life schedule doesn't lend itself well to keeping up with forums as much as I'd like but sounds like I missed some interesting information.

ArdWrknTrk wrote

changing from rocking pole to PMGR requires a trigger wire to the starter, and a live at all times starter cable.

Only 1 additional medium-gauge wire (~14~8ga) is required.

kramttocs wrote

My life schedule doesn't lend itself well to keeping up with forums as much as I'd like but sounds like I missed some interesting information.

No...no you didn't.

Steve, you're a gem - great write up. Thank you!