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Got the Dual oil pressure and real voltage gauge in, No I know what "R" means.. by reamer

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reamer

Got the Dual oil pressure and real voltage gauge in, No I know what "R" means.. by reamer

With OO-BEGUB away for the winter, I installed the "converted-to-volt meter" gauge, and also installed a digital oil pressure gauge.

I used a dual port extension so I can run the stock pressure sender and also the new electronic sender.
After running for a awhile, the oil pressure goes to "N".... I just don't know how much pressure is "N".

Right now "R" = 52 psi, will be interesting to see what "N" equals.
Notice the volt meter, showing its "charging at @ 14 volts.....

1986 F-150 Flareside 4x4, 351, 4-v, ZF5 speed. AC, Cruise, Tilt, Slider, Digital clock, Radio, Lariat seat, Pwr doors/locks

Gary Lewis

Re: Got the Dual oil pressure and real voltage gauge in, No I know what "R" means.. by reamer

Administrator

Looks good, Ron.

Where did you tell Rocketman you wanted the gauge to read? I told him I wanted the center to be 12.8v. How/where did you wire it? With a relay or to switched power?

And, I'll show my ignorance - who is OO-BEGUB?

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow
Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/ZF5/3.55's, D60 w/Ox locker & 10.25 Sterling/Trutrac, Blue Top & Borgeson, & EEC-V MAF/SEFI

reamer

Re: Got the Dual oil pressure and real voltage gauge in, No I know what "R" means.. by reamer

When I registered it in the state of "Confusion," otherwise known as "the Peoples Republic of Connecticut"
They named it for me.... (look at the plate)

On the volt meter, its wired with for 12.5 on "center" and No relay, used the original gauge wire and grounded the other post on the back of the cluster....

1986 F-150 Flareside 4x4, 351, 4-v, ZF5 speed. AC, Cruise, Tilt, Slider, Digital clock, Radio, Lariat seat, Pwr doors/locks

Gary Lewis

Re: Got the Dual oil pressure and real voltage gauge in, No I know what "R" means.. by reamer

Administrator

OO - I see!

On the voltmeter, does it read with the key off?

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

reamer

Re: Got the Dual oil pressure and real voltage gauge in, No I know what "R" means.. by reamer

All the way to the left....

1986 F-150 Flareside 4x4, 351, 4-v, ZF5 speed. AC, Cruise, Tilt, Slider, Digital clock, Radio, Lariat seat, Pwr doors/locks

Gary Lewis

Re: Got the Dual oil pressure and real voltage gauge in, No I know what "R" means.. by reamer

Administrator

So, is it truly "off" or is it still indicating voltage and, therefore, pulling power?

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Rembrant

Re: Got the Dual oil pressure and real voltage gauge in, No I know what "R" means.. by reamer

In reply to this post by reamer

Well done Ron! Converting the amp gauge to volts is one of those mods that is high on my want list.

Looks great!

1994 F150 4x2 Flareside. 5.0 w/MAF, 4R70W, stock.
1984 F150 4X2 Flareside. Mild 302 w/ 5spd. Sold.
1980 F150 4X4 Flareside. 300i6 w/ 5spd. Sold in 2021.
1980 F100 4X2 Flareside. 351w/2bbl w/NP435. Sold in 1995

reamer

Re: Got the Dual oil pressure and real voltage gauge in, No I know what "R" means.. by reamer

I believe it's a true "off" because way to left is 8v. but I can check for ya...

1986 F-150 Flareside 4x4, 351, 4-v, ZF5 speed. AC, Cruise, Tilt, Slider, Digital clock, Radio, Lariat seat, Pwr doors/locks

Dyn Blin

Re: Got the Dual oil pressure and real voltage gauge in, No I know what "R" means.. by reamer

In reply to this post by reamer

Ron, was the extension you used for the sender the six-sided "hot dog" that extends from the port?

(and man- that carpet is clean!)

Great modification. Bob aka "Rocketman" is one of the most knowledgeable and accommodating resources I've found, between him and the members here, I'm not sure there's much that can't be answered.

If someone purchases a voltmeter and later decides they want it re-calibrated so the markers point to other benchmarks outside the default range, he'll do so for a nominal fee.

I ended up using an "add-a-circuit" from the fusebox to ensure key-off was not presenting a parasitic drain, and I figured it would be a good indication of true voltage making it through the harness . Going from the fuse-box makes it a bit easier to troubleshoot and isolate if needed.

The "hardest" part was isolating the ground post from the old double-hot set up from the ammeter on the . To preserve as much as possible, I widened the diameter of the printed film with a drill bit to make sure it did not contact the negative post in the voltmeter, but not wide enough that the (removed) nut wouldn't touch if there was ever a desire to convert back.

Rocketma/Bob makes a great headlight relay harness, too, and can fix broken tachometers.

Sonoma County,CA
1982 F150 Flareside XLS
NP435 4x4
351W Motorcraft 2150

Gary Lewis

Re: Got the Dual oil pressure and real voltage gauge in, No I know what "R" means.. by reamer

Administrator

I want to monitor battery voltage, not cab voltage since it will vary by the number of accessories that are on. Which is why I'm going to use a key-on relay to power the volt meter. But, that's just my preference.

As for Bob, I didn't know that he did all that. We need to get his info on the Resource page. What can we share?

On the ground, I like your idea. That way you can put it back.

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

reamer

Re: Got the Dual oil pressure and real voltage gauge in, No I know what "R" means.. by reamer

Yes, it the "six sided hotdog" with two threaded ports, The end one was cut at 45 degrees and the second on one of the sides.
Was a bi%*h to get the two to fit and then have them not to hit the P.S. pump when installed.
I had to pitch the stock sender towards the fire wall, so it would clear the P.S. pump, but then had to install a 90 degree elbow to mount the electronic sender.

1986 F-150 Flareside 4x4, 351, 4-v, ZF5 speed. AC, Cruise, Tilt, Slider, Digital clock, Radio, Lariat seat, Pwr doors/locks

Dyn Blin

Re: Got the Dual oil pressure and real voltage gauge in, No I know what "R" means.. by reamer

reamer wrote

Yes, it the "six sided hotdog" with two threaded ports, The end one was cut
at 45 degrees and the second on one of the sides.
Was a bi%*h to get the two to fit and then have them not to hit the P.S.
pump when installed.
I had to pitch the stock sender towards the fire wall, so it would clear the
P.S. pump, but then had to install a 90 degree elbow to mount the electronic
sender.

I had that same issue and although it's pretty stout, worried I might strip it trying to turn it enough to seal & enough to point in a direction that didn't intefere with anything else.

I ordered, but didn't install, a sandwich adapter under the oil filter. If ever needed.

Nice work

Sonoma County,CA
1982 F150 Flareside XLS
NP435 4x4
351W Motorcraft 2150

Dyn Blin

Re: Got the Dual oil pressure and real voltage gauge in, No I know what "R" means.. by reamer

In reply to this post by Gary Lewis

Gary Lewis wrote

I want to monitor battery voltage, not cab voltage since it will vary by the number of accessories that are on. Which is why I'm going to use a key-on relay to power the volt meter. But, that's just my preference...

I get a battery reading when I turn to key to accessory position prior to ignition.

My second plank question in 72 hours:

The original ammeter "voltage" comes from the alternator, correct?

Anything tapped after the voltage regulator is not battery voltage either?

(That's 2 plank questions)

One more question- if tapping at the fuse box, would that tell me if my voltage regulator was going bad if I see a bunch of bouncing at the gauge, or a consistent "over-voltage" in excess of 14.5?

(plank hat trick! I'm opening my EVTM when I get home)

Sonoma County,CA
1982 F150 Flareside XLS
NP435 4x4
351W Motorcraft 2150

Gary Lewis

Re: Got the Dual oil pressure and real voltage gauge in, No I know what "R" means.. by reamer

Administrator

Yes, you should get the battery's voltage when you turn the key to Run. It'll be a bit less than with everything turned off as the ignition, at the very least, will be on. But, it doesn't pull much.

As for #2, the ammeter is seeing essentially battery voltage. So when Ron used the lead from the shunt, the original lead to the ammeter, it'll be pretty close to battery voltage.

Now, for the swinging voltage, there really shouldn't be much change at the fuse box except for when accessories are turned on and off. But Ford used pretty small wiring, so there is an appreciable voltage drop from the battery to the fuse box. However, it should not swing back and forth. That might be a sign of a bad voltage regulator.

But voltage can go to something like 14.7 volts in cold conditions when the battery is a bit low. However, it should come back to about 14.4 when things warm up.

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

reamer

Re: Got the Dual oil pressure and real voltage gauge in, No I know what "R" means.. by reamer

Took OO-BGUB out today to get it hot and watch the oil pressure drop (as it usually does) the needle usually sits between "N" and "O", at idle, da pressure is 30 psi...

1986 F-150 Flareside 4x4, 351, 4-v, ZF5 speed. AC, Cruise, Tilt, Slider, Digital clock, Radio, Lariat seat, Pwr doors/locks

Gary Lewis

Re: Got the Dual oil pressure and real voltage gauge in, No I know what "R" means.. by reamer

Administrator

That's lots of pressure.

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

reamer

Re: Got the Dual oil pressure and real voltage gauge in, No I know what "R" means.. by reamer

I was figuring it would be 6 or 7 psi, (with just the stock gauge) But I can hold off on a rebuild for some time with 25+ psi....

1986 F-150 Flareside 4x4, 351, 4-v, ZF5 speed. AC, Cruise, Tilt, Slider, Digital clock, Radio, Lariat seat, Pwr doors/locks

Gary Lewis

Re: Got the Dual oil pressure and real voltage gauge in, No I know what "R" means.. by reamer

Administrator

In reply to this post by Gary Lewis

If the engine is otherwise running well and not using a lot of oil there's no reason to rebuild based on that oil pressure.

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Steve83

Re: Got the Dual oil pressure and real voltage gauge in, No I know what "R" means.. by reamer

Banned User

In reply to this post by reamer

Good oil pressure indicates the pump & bearings are probably good. But decide about a rebuild, I'd also consider compression & vacuum:

Gary Lewis

Re: Got the Dual oil pressure and real voltage gauge in, No I know what "R" means.. by reamer

Administrator

Vacuum and compression tests do help determine how the engine is performing. However, in my experience a leak-down test takes it even further. I had an '82 351W that idled very roughly, but passed the compression test with flying colors. And the vacuum at idle was reasonable, although it had glitches in it.

But a leak-down test determined that 4 cylinders had leaking valves - and two sets of those four were adjacent to each other in the firing order, which caused the roughness. On the other hand, there was little leakage past the rings. So having the valves ground solved the problem.

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile