Ford Electrical Connectors....ARGHHH!!!

I detest these connectors, but maybe I'm just not smart enough to figure out how to disconnect them? This is the connector that feeds my alternator and I'd really like to remove it and clean it up in there before I do the 3G alternator mod. Any tips on how to get this apart?

They are a PAIN!  And I frequently break a tab.

Anyway, on some of them you slip a really small screwdriver in an lever them apart. Pull on the wires as well.

I feel like I need three hands to do it. In fact, I'm bleeding right now from a smaller connecter I removed. It's never been taken apart, wondering if I could spray some PB Blaster in there to loosen it up?  

I'm bleeding right now from cleaning up an air inlet I needed to show someone how little room there is under the hood of these things, so I can sympathize with you.

A third, and even a fourth, hand would be handy (get it?) on these connectors.  They really are a pain.

As for PB Blaster, I doubt it'll help but I don't believe it'll hurt if you then clean the connector well.

Machspeed wrote

I detest these connectors, but maybe I'm just not smart enough to figure out how to disconnect them? This is the connector that feeds my alternator and I'd really like to remove it and clean it up in there before I do the 3G alternator mod. Any tips on how to get this apart?

That is the one connector I ended up deleting on my '84. Once I did get it apart, it was all corroded so I cut it off and wired everything back up without it.

But yes...they are no fun to pull apart, and I usually break them.

I don't think I'd try anything with solvent, John.
If the plastic inside there starts to melt its going to be welded together.

Do you have any light oil or silicone spray with a straw?

Success! Before I posted I sprayed it with the stuff you clean electrical connectors with but it wouldn't budge. After my whining here and the application of a band aide, I went back out and sprayed the sucker with WD-40 and opened up the two clips with a couple of finish nails I use in my finish gun for trim. Dang thing easily pulled out. Concerned that the WD-40 would eat at the plastic, I quickly cleaned it with the electrical connector cleaner. Jim, think your're right about the PB Blaster. I read the can and it may have been a problem on that plastic. Didn't note any warning on the WD-40.

 

Well done!  I like the finish nail idea.  I've used small screwdrivers and they keep slipping, so I think I'll adopt your plan, Stan.

When you put them back together they should have some goo in there to prevent moisture from getting in.  I suspect dielectric grease would be the best, but I've used a very thin coat of aluminum-based anti-seize applied with a Q-Tip.  I just coat the male prongs and that seems to let things come apart easier next time as well.

Had planned to coat it with dilectric grease. I was really surprised how easy it came out after I sprayed it with WD-40. Not sure it was whole fully the lubricant but it sure did come out smoothly. Almost busted a knuckled against the valve cover pulling on it too hard.  
 

Orignaly the meaning of WD in WD-40 was Water Despersing. I have seen it used in distrubiter caps to get the water out and get it to run.

Glad you got it!
It's crazy how much pulling effort it takes on some of those molded connectors.
The third certainty in life is that the split second after they separate your elbow will find the hardest thing within a 20ft radius.

kramttocs wrote

Glad you got it!
It's crazy how much pulling effort it takes on some of those molded connectors.
The third certainty in life is that the split second after they separate your elbow will find the hardest thing within a 20ft radius.

Yep, you know what I'm talking about!

That should be amended to say "or knuckles"

This thread .... I needed this about a year ago!! 🤣

lol part of me wished I could source brand new Ford connectors like that to blend my auxiliary fusebox in with my OE wiring under the hood, would make it way easier to make add on circuits look OE with the OE terminals.

You could pull them from another truck. The rear crossmember would give you a decent selection with some useable length on some of them.

kramttocs wrote

You could pull them from another truck. The rear crossmember would give you a decent selection with some useable length on some of them.

Thats what I thought about but was really thinking more along the lines of ones that were not assembled to prevent having to crimp/solder the wires on.  Sort of like how I did my connectors for my driving lights, I crimped the weather seal terminals to the wires I made to length.

Probably will end up doing that anyways though, could always do a metal crimp with shrink wrap then cover the wire up.

So the components that you want to wire in already have leads that aren't removable? I was thinking that if you can find a factory connector that has long enough wires on it you could remove whatever leads the component has and terminate the factory wire into it using whatever terminal type is needed.

If really going for the gold, you might be able to core out the factory connectors, find a way to hold the new terminals (and wires) in place,  and then epoxy around them. Filling up the connector. I don't know, nor thought about before now, how a molded connector like these are made.

kramttocs wrote

So the components that you want to wire in already have leads that aren't removable? I was thinking that if you can find a factory connector that has long enough wires on it you could remove whatever leads the component has and terminate the factory wire into it using whatever terminal type is needed.

If really going for the gold, you might be able to core out the factory connectors, find a way to hold the new terminals (and wires) in place,  and then epoxy around them. Filling up the connector. I don't know, nor thought about before now, how a molded connector like these are made.

Im not sure how they are made but they are obviously still out there in new productions cause you buy a new Cardone Distributor and it has a brand new OE connector on the end making it plug and play.

Thats why I assumed that you should be able to find the OE style connectors bare for assembly yourself, Id have no problem assembling the connector then injecting epoxy around the back end to seal them.  Just would like for the connectors to look the same and not be a mismatch of 80s style connectors and modern day weatherproof connectors.

I have cored old terminals out before and attached new wires to them, I didnt core them persay as in drilling but used a small pick and gently opened the crimp up to pull the wire out.  This allows new wire to be laid down in the terminal and recrimped.  If the crimp doesnt seem to hold up that well then a drop of soldier would help with securing the connection.

The distributor connector is the one thing hard to find for a DSII harness.
Obviously, Painless has a source and rebuild companies can get the Dizzy side.
Motorcraft does have a compatible connector, if you are willing to remove the 'keys' that interfere.