Fix for broken dipstick

The handle broke on my dipstick and I was unable to find one just like it so I did one better, at least for me any way. Where it was at it was hard for me to reach. The dipstick I replaced it with was longer so I extended the tube with a compression fitting and some metal line the same diameter. Now I don't have to climb up on the bumper to check my oil.

Interesting approach.  Can you give us a closeup of the compression fitting?

I'll try to use the camera zoom tomorrow but it's just a common fitting that the parts store had. I can reach it now standing by the fender and reaching over the master cylinder. It hurts my knees climbing on the core support not to mention possibly hazardous when the bumper is wet. I was going to bend it forward towards the radiator but I don't have a tubing bender and this works quite well for me so I'll leave it like this. Also, I found out that there was apparently a change on the engine blocks for the 4.9/300. I have a rear mount dipstick and tube that goes to another engine that I have and it screws in the block between the distributor and the oil filter but the casting that it goes into was not cast into the engine block that is in my truck. If you're interested in including this bit of info let me know and I'll take some pictures of this difference between the two engines.  

Well done. I have to do something with the dipstick on the '85 302 when the time comes, but it's fairly low priority at the moment.

Gary, as said it is just a common compression fitting on each end.

In the AMC world the dip stick comes out over exh manifold / header with a support bracket off 1 of the valve cover bolts to keep it from moving.
What happens with out that bracket or R & R headers (gaskets) or the motor a lot the outer tube snaps off at the block. The new tubes, sticks do not come with the tube, do not fit the block.
Any way if you have a good tube you use a small tube cutter and cut the tube down low below the manifold / header, and use the compression fitting to join the 2 parts together.

This way the next time header gaskets need to be replaced you undo the compression fitting and remove the upper half of the tube out of the way.
They say it works great as I have not needed to do this yet.
Dave ----

ps: ever seen a dip stick / tube for a van? I bet you could put that on the radiator and not need to go over the master

Yes, we could include the info on the dip stick and tube in the changes list.

I see what the compression fitting is, thanks Dave.  And, the van dip stick would make it easy - just point it the other way and check it in the cab.  

I use to have a 1970 E 100 van with a 240 in it many years ago and it's dipstick was about 4 foot long or there abouts. The support bracket on it and the one in my truck goes over to one of the side cover bolts. The dipstick for my van was right at the radiator. A dipstick for a van with a 300 would work very well for me  as the full mark and add mark would correspond to the oil level in my oil pan. this dipstick was actually for a 351 and I gauged it to the add mark.

Here is a block mount dipstick and tube for the 4.9/300 engines  It is screwed into the block  And here is where it goes into the block  And the casting number to the block

white knite wrote

I use to have a 1970 E 100 van with a 240 in it many years ago and it's dipstick was about 4 foot long or there abouts. The support bracket on it and the one in my truck goes over to one of the side cover bolts. The dipstick for my van was right at the radiator. A dipstick for a van with a 300 would work very well for me  as the full mark and add mark would correspond to the oil level in my oil pan. this dipstick was actually for a 351 and I gauged it to the add mark.

Sometime back, I calibrated the oil dipstick for my truck:

When you find a suitable dipstick, calibrate it for your application... at oil change time, add 5 quarts with new filter, push the dipstick in all the way and then carefully remove. With a clean hand file, cut a mark [small line] across the back of the dipstick at the highest point of the oil. That mark will indicate being 1 quart low. Next, carefully clean the dipstick and then return it to the engine. Add the 6th quart and run the engine and then shut off. After the oil has drained back to the crankcase, check the oil and once again, use the file to mark "full."

Whenever I get the chance I'll be looking for a dipstick for a 4.9 EFI engine. Then I'll trim down my dipstick tube extension to match my oil level. That way the markings on the dipstick will be correct as the markings will be gauged for my engines oil pan as the only change in the pans was the omission of the pan mounted dipstick provision.