F-Superduty IDI water hauler build

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F-Superduty IDI water hauler build

Ford F834
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Last Saturday Lands Transport LLC dropped off an engine-less 1995 Ford F-Supetduty in my front yard. It will become our water hauler and work truck for building a house. I am going to need a fair bit of help with this, especially in the compatibility of parts across 7th, 8th, and 9th generation body style eras.



As I looked it over today, all I could think was ‘what did I do!’. I have a bad feeling I am going to regret this purchase because of the labor and cost required to get it where I need it, but that I will be truly happy with the results. Compared to other trucks I considered purchasing, the wheelbase and rear end gear ratio of this one make it pretty special and probably worth the headache. It was an EFI 460 truck converted to a 5.9 Cummins diesel, then the engine was sold out of it. It’s hacked. The Knapheide utility body won’t carry my water tank and will have to come off.



The engine that will go in is a very late s/n 6.9L IDI diesel. It is in a 1989 bricknose supercab F250, but is not the original engine. I got this engine to start and run on a can of fresh diesel, and it sounds great. It has minimal blow by for an IDI. It’s grimy, but not puking oil the way worn out ones do. I’m confident it will be good to run a while as-is. The donor truck is a ZF5 close ratio 4wd, but I also have a wide ratio ZF5 available that can be drilled to mate with the IDI bellhousing and alignment dowel pattern.



So far so good... an engineless truck and an engine donor (complete vehicle). 👍 But this is where the body style differences start to rain on my parade.

First order of business- I need to run the HUGE diesel radiator. The core support on the F-Superduty has had a sawzall taken to it on more than one occasion, and is too short for the diesel radiator:



I have a Bullnose and a Bricknose core support, but no Aeronose diesel core support.

To continue using the Aeronose front clip, I would need:
- IDI diesel core support (LMC carries reproduction ones)
- Plastic grille parts

To use a Bricknose front clip I would need:
-Both front fenders

To use a Bullnose front clip I would need:
-Both front fenders
-Both inner fender aprons

Second order of business- wiring. I have a complete cab and engine harness from a 1986 IDI diesel truck. I have the complete harness from the bricknose donor truck. I have no source for an Aeronose IDI harness. Even if I could physically make the wires fit, the earlier harnesses would be problematic with the Aeronose interior because of the very different HVAC control system, and the movement of high beam light functions and windshield wiper controls to the turn signal lever. Also note that whoever performed the Cummins swap removed the instrument cluster completely, and installed a set of aftermarket gauges. The Speedometer is driven electrically off of a pulse generator in the tailshaft of the Dodge Getrag 360 5-speed transmission that is still in the truck. I will not have a way to make this work with the IDI. If I want to run a mechanical speedometer, I will have to run either a transfer case, or my DNE2 overdrive unit (my preference). I don’t know of a way to elegantly run a mechanical speedometer in an Aeronose dash cluster. Also, the turn signal switch assembly in this column is broken, and the keys were lost. The only way the transport company was able to guide it onto their trailer was to disconnect the intermediate shaft. So there’s that. The engine bay HVAC box is melted from some mishap with the Cummins, probably running it without a downpipe.







This is probably the most challenging part of the whole project. Figuring out what to use as far as the wiring and interior. Sure. The IDI is great in that it only takes one wire to the FSS to run, but there is also the starting circuit, charging circuit, and for glow plug functionality, cold advance on the IP, and gauge function including tachometer it requires a bit more. I have all the wrong puzzle pieces and I’m not liking any of my options:

1a) Farmer rig the existing 460 wiring. Fix the column switch and key problems. Attempt to find aftermarket tach and speedometer solutions. Fix Engine ba HVAC box. 1b) would be the same thing except with the extraordinary good luck of finding an Aeronose IDI wire harness in acceptable condition. I’m not really counting on this as an option and the speedometer might still be an issue?

2) Bricknose interior and wiring swap. I have pretty much everything from the donor except crank window door panels. From what I read this would be a LOT of labor and fabrication. I bought one of the Aeronose steering column boots where it goes through the firewall. The rubber is very thin and soft compared to the 80-91 tear drop plug, but definitely big enough for a floor shift manual column without shift linkages to go through if the rubber was trimmed. It might still be desirable to bolt the teardrop frame through the firewall to help support and position the column, but it seems doable. This thread is the reverse (installing Aeronose interior into a Bricknose) but it is a useful read to understand the differences:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1428947-obs-dash-swap-in-a-brick-nose-detailed.html

3) Same as 2 but with a Bullnose interior. Same problem (lots of fabrication), but I have a wire harness and many of the parts. I would need to source an inside HVAC box, controller, and vent ducts. I also can’t remember if I have a spare pedal box or not, but I can get one in my local junkyard along with the missing HVAV and dash stuff if I were to go this route.

The bed: the utility body has to go. One of the toolbox doors is damaged (sadly) but I might still get a few bucks for this thing after I cut all of the welds holding it to the frame. The wheelbase is 137” which is just +4” from a regular single cab long bed. I did find a local ad for a DRW pickup bed for 200$ but some creativity is needed in dealing with the extra 4” of space between the cab. Some have shifted the axle forward and trimmed the frame... that’s not happening. Some have put a headache rack frame there to blend the space. I currently have an exhaust stack there which would hide a gap but it is only one side and would look fairly janky.







I have found a couple of flatbeds at the junkyard, but they are fairly huge for what I need. They are asking 450$ and would be another project to re-size them. I don’t think I would want one over 9’ long, and not much if any wider than the wheels (~89”)


 


There are also add-on dually flare sets you can buy for SRW beds. These could potential be mounted 4” further back on the bed than the original fender opening, and I do have the ‘89 donor’s bed. It has rot in the arches but the floor is “good enough”. The price is a bit steep at $500 for a set, but it is an option. I’ve never thought flatbeds were very functional without sides to contain the cargo, but I’ve not owned one to know their advantages.

A couple of last thoughts... anyone have any clue what to ask price-wise for the utility body or the 2wd Getrag 5-speed? The paint job on the F-Superduty looks pretty clean in the pics, and isn’t bad, but also isn’t original. It is a chalky single stage home made repaint. If I mix-n-match front clip parts and spray it again myself to match I won’t be loosing anything or messing up factory paint. I have a bearing kit coming for an ATS 088 turbo kit that I have sitting on the side. It’s a horrible turbo, non wastegated with an AR of 1.00 or 1.10 which is ridiculous and a badly matched cold side wheel. However, it is still better than no turbo at all. It has shaft end play, but the bearing kit is only $59 so it is worth a go. On the 088 the up pipe and down pipe are all cast into one bizarre looking exhaust housing, so there is no T3 or T4 flange upon which one could mount another turbo. Another turbo with a p-trim exhaust wheel could potentially be grafted in, but at a point it is better to source a more versatile kit. I just have it on the side so I figure I will put it on. It is mild enough not to bother a 6.9 with stock head bolts.

SHORT BED 4-DOOR DIESEL: 1986 F350 4x4 under construction-- 7.3 IDIT ZF5+GVOD

STRAIGHT SIX 4X4: 1981 F150 2wd to 4x4-- 300 I6 close ratio diesel T19, hydroboost brakes, Saginaw steering

BIG F: 1995 F-Superduty under construction— converting to 6.9L IDI diesel ZF5+DNE2
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Re: F-Superduty IDI water hauler build

Rembrant
Ford F834 wrote
As I looked it over today, all I could think was ‘what did I do!’. I have a bad feeling I am going to regret this purchase because of the labor and cost required to get it where I need it...
Oh man, I have been there so many times...standing over a pile of whatever I just dragged home asking myself what on earth did I just do?>..lol.

The truck looks great! THe mechanical work all seems pretty straight forward no? It is the wiring that is going to take some tongue biting to sort out. I like the idea of the headache rack too, to fill up the potential space between the cab and box...but a nice flat deck would look pretty good too.

I'll be following along with this build.

Our local junkyard had an F350 diesel that came in a few months ago, and I'm sure it was a 1995. It was one of those airport trucks with the rear wheels almost hitting the cab, but it was 100% complete. I'll check it out this weekend and see if it's still there and not picked clean in case there are any little odds and ends you need.
1994 F150 4x2 Flareside. 5.0 w/MAF, 4R70W, stock.
1984 F150 4X2 Flareside. Mild 302 w/ 5spd. Sold.
1980 F150 4X4 Flareside. 300i6 w/ 5spd. Sold in 2021.
1980 F100 4X2 Flareside. 351w/2bbl w/NP435. Sold in 1995

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Re: F-Superduty IDI water hauler build

ArdWrknTrk
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In reply to this post by Ford F834
Well, you've gone and done it now, Jonathan!

You know where I stand on the bull, brick, aero debate.
Be aware that the aero cowl won't line up with the brick hood if you choose to go that way.
 Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake.
Too much other stuff to mention.
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Re: F-Superduty IDI water hauler build

Ford F834
Administrator
In reply to this post by Rembrant
Thanks Cory, if it is a ‘95 and a diesel then it has to be the computerized Powerstroke 7.3, not IDI. The core support would be the same ha ha, but not worth shipping. The wiring would be completely different, but I believe the cluster is the same. That said, I might actually have a diesel Aeronose tach that could possibly plug into any 92-96 cluster? I would have to ask a group that knows the Aeronose IDI’s. Using a bricknose cluster in an Aeronose dash might also be within the realm of farmer rigged possibilities.

Jim, I have indeed done it now! Any way I slice this it’s going to be a big project. That’s exactly what I didn’t want, but years from now when I’m still hauling water I will thank myself for the pickup-like wheelbase instead of a 20’ flatbed or even a 12’ one. And 4.63 rear gears instead of 5.13 will help keep the IDI in its happy place for rpm’s. I’m trying to tell myself the juice will be worth the squeeze. Thanks for the heads up on the cowl piece. I remember reading that somewhere. I do have the polka dot one on the 89 donor if I end up having to go with a clip swap. I’m not fond of mis-matched interiors/exteriors, but I am feeling the pressure of this project going towards the path of least resistance with the parts I have available.
SHORT BED 4-DOOR DIESEL: 1986 F350 4x4 under construction-- 7.3 IDIT ZF5+GVOD

STRAIGHT SIX 4X4: 1981 F150 2wd to 4x4-- 300 I6 close ratio diesel T19, hydroboost brakes, Saginaw steering

BIG F: 1995 F-Superduty under construction— converting to 6.9L IDI diesel ZF5+DNE2
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Re: F-Superduty IDI water hauler build

Rembrant
Ford F834 wrote
Thanks Cory, if it is a ‘95 and a diesel then it has to be the computerized Powerstroke 7.3, not IDI. The core support would be the same ha ha, but not worth shipping.
The shipping on that would cost as much as a whole truck;).

I was thinking more of the little type "small box" items, and even then, they'd have to be something obscure that you couldn't find at home. Still, I've shipped parts all over the place...most recently Australia to Darin, but also all over the US. It has to make sense of course. YOu guys have much bigger junkyards than I do.

Can't wait to see how this progresses though. This will be a cool build. If I had the time and money, I'd have a yard full of stuff like this to work on.


1994 F150 4x2 Flareside. 5.0 w/MAF, 4R70W, stock.
1984 F150 4X2 Flareside. Mild 302 w/ 5spd. Sold.
1980 F150 4X4 Flareside. 300i6 w/ 5spd. Sold in 2021.
1980 F100 4X2 Flareside. 351w/2bbl w/NP435. Sold in 1995

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Re: F-Superduty IDI water hauler build

ArdWrknTrk
Administrator
In reply to this post by Ford F834
That dually box looks pretty rough.
Do you have a tailgate and lights to fit it?
Is the harness there?
How is the fuel fill set up in the utility box?

I'd be tempted to fab my own flatbed with stake sides for when I need them.
Being removable makes it muck easier to get big loads on and off with a forklift.
For the price of some channel/box and a can of stick electrodes you could have a deck that is exactly how you want it.
Of course, around here I have as much oak trailer decking as I want for the price of a six-pack.
 Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake.
Too much other stuff to mention.
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Re: F-Superduty IDI water hauler build

Gary Lewis
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Well, this certainly is a PROJECT!  

Are you SURE that you can't use something like a 4-core radiator for a 460?  (I know nothing about the diesels and their cooling requirements, but thought I'd ask.)

As for instrumentation, if the cab harness isn't in too bad of shape I might be inclined to stay with it and source the right cluster.

On the HVAC, I have some Bullnose stuff, both interior and underhood.  But shipping might be pricey on it.  However, it is an option.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow
Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/ZF5/3.55's, D60 w/Ox locker & 10.25 Sterling/Trutrac, Blue Top & Borgeson, & EEC-V MAF/SEFI

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Re: F-Superduty IDI water hauler build

Frank Wyatt
Yep, it looks like you stepped in it now, but I believe you'll be happier with the end result than the other options you had looked at. Your experience and talent will come in handy with this project. It would not be hard to build a flat bed sized to suit your needs and a set of removable or swing down side panels would give you the advantage of the pick up box with the versatility of the flat bed.  A dash swap would not be too difficult once all components are sourced or how ever you decide to go on the interior but am sure that's further down the list of things to do as it would be on mine.  Once it is all done I am sure you'll be happy with your decision and it will be YOUR truck, set up just the way you want it.
1981 F 150 Custom 300 ci with a fully rebuilt 1968 240 head Carter YFA T-18 3.25 9" rear 2WD
dual gas tanks
1990 Lincoln Town Car 5.0 AOD
Home town Mc Kenzie, TN
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Re: F-Superduty IDI water hauler build

Ford F834
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In reply to this post by Gary Lewis
Gary, thank you very much for the offer on parts. I suspect you are correct, that shipping may be more expensive than the salvage yard prices on some of this, but if I am having difficulty finding something I will ask.

The IDI radiator is absolutely massive. I would consider something like a 460 radiator for a diesel Bronco or light truck conversion, but for a heavy work truck I’m not inclined to risk it. If I end up hauling a flatbed load of cement sacks up the ten mile stretch of 6% grade from Bullhead in 120* summer heat I don’t want to wonder whether the radiator is going to cut it. I have the IDI radiator, and it looks to be in decent shape.

I still need to crawl up under the dash and/or pull the dash apart to see what shape the Aeronose wiring is in. I don’t know if the cluster wiring is intact or if the P.O. butchered it. I know the starting and charging circuits are badly hacked. Still, fixing and sorting that out is probably less work than getting bogged down with a full on interior swap?

Frank, thank you for the kind words and vote of confidence. I am sure I will be happy once it’s done, I just wish I had more of the right puzzle pieces 😕

Jim, the dually truck box is indeed a bit on the rough side, as one would expect for the price. I found a Bullnose one as well, also for $200, but looks even rougher:





For me, fabricating a flatbed is challenging to source the steel and I don’t have a great work area to build something like this. It is probably my most expensive and time consuming option. I am really hoping to find something already made, or use a regular DRW bed. It is also something I could change later, but I have to be able to fit the water tank now, and I would rather get it right the first time.
SHORT BED 4-DOOR DIESEL: 1986 F350 4x4 under construction-- 7.3 IDIT ZF5+GVOD

STRAIGHT SIX 4X4: 1981 F150 2wd to 4x4-- 300 I6 close ratio diesel T19, hydroboost brakes, Saginaw steering

BIG F: 1995 F-Superduty under construction— converting to 6.9L IDI diesel ZF5+DNE2
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Re: F-Superduty IDI water hauler build

salans7
Ford F834 wrote
I still need to crawl up under the dash and/or pull the dash apart to see what shape the Aeronose wiring is in. I don’t know if the cluster wiring is intact or if the P.O. butchered it. I know the starting and charging circuits are badly hacked. Still, fixing and sorting that out is probably less work than getting bogged down with a full on interior swap?
The wiring harness in my truck was not badly hacked, however the fuse box and a few of the wires and terminals were severely melted. I was able to replace the fuse box with the one from my new cab, and luckily many of the wires that burned were the same color on the bricknose fuse box. That made it much simpler and each wire that was burned was cut down and spliced with the matching wires in the bricknose fuse box. Also, I had to remove all of the EFI wiring from the rear harness since the harness was from a 302 truck and I have no intention of running either of those. Then there were the non-existent license plate lamps I had to add in since the truck left the factory without a rear bumper option.

All of that on top of swapping on the bullnose dash. I definitely wouldn't be afraid of fixing the wiring. Fixing mine allowed me to gauge the shape of the harness and fix anything that might set the truck in flames.
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Re: F-Superduty IDI water hauler build

ArdWrknTrk
Administrator
In reply to this post by Ford F834
Well, that bed doesn't show the gate or taillights either, so I'm not hopeful.
Whoever took those pics framed them intentionally.

I didn't realize steel was expensive for you.
I typically pay 1.5x scrap for what I get at the yard.
Sometimes that means buying a 15' length to get the six I need, but it never goes to waste.

Without a place to work, or time to do it, I understand your looking for a ready made solution.

Be aware that the 450 C&C is going to have flat frame rails, and a different width than a pickup would.
So a dually box will not "drop right on"

You've hit the ground running.
I look forward to the build.  👍
 Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake.
Too much other stuff to mention.
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Re: F-Superduty IDI water hauler build

Ford F834
Administrator
Jim, I have not yet tried to source steel here in Kingman, but I priced some a few years back when I lived in the Flagstaff area and had a rude awakening. I ended up going a different direction with the  project I was working on then. I will have some time to shop for a bed while I do the engine swap, but if nothing suitable comes along I will have to build something. I have thought about the comments from you and others and I think you are right that a flatbed is the way to go, with removable sides.

Shaun, that’s partly why I have such an issue with the existing 460 wiring loom. Probably 80% of it won’t be used, and trying to verify the important ones is challenging. The guy who put an Aeronose interior into a bricknose truck opted to make his own completely new custom wire harness and used all aftermarket gauges. That could be a possibility, but wire is expensive and unless you are extremely good at wiring things up I can see that taking a LOT of time. I think I would prefer the dash swap over that.
SHORT BED 4-DOOR DIESEL: 1986 F350 4x4 under construction-- 7.3 IDIT ZF5+GVOD

STRAIGHT SIX 4X4: 1981 F150 2wd to 4x4-- 300 I6 close ratio diesel T19, hydroboost brakes, Saginaw steering

BIG F: 1995 F-Superduty under construction— converting to 6.9L IDI diesel ZF5+DNE2
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Ford F834
Administrator
I was able to investigate another salvage yard this afternoon in Lake Havasu AZ. They had an Aeronose diesel but it was a computerized Powerstroke, and unfortunately the radiator support was already gone. Access to the vehicles was terrible, and there was no organization whatsoever. *But... the vehicles were not as systematically picked over and the items I inquired about seemed reasonably priced. I would go back...

I didn’t buy any parts but I did score some excellent photos of Bullnose dash mounting and what the Aeronose HVAC ducts look like. I’m sure these are nothing remarkable, but useful when you do not have photographic memory:





















The main issues that I see with fitting this dash into an Aeronose cab are the missing supports spot welded to the firewall (for pedal box, center dash support rod, and HVAC duct mounting point) plus the reduced/missing ledge at the bottom of the windshield. I think the speaker support could be creatively fastened to support the center, but the top corner bolts have nothing to fasten to (all of this is just as Shaun already described with the bricknose cab). I believe the exterior boxes are identical 80-96 with the exception that 87+ has an add-on for a vacuum control in the engine bay. Note also that the replacement blend door says fitment is for 80-96. I don’t see any reason that an 80-86 HVAC box would not bolt in.





















It seems to me that the steering column hole is plenty large enough for the column with the ring/dust boot removed. I don’t know why one couldn’t just drill through the holes in the teardrop plate and bolt through the firewall?


So that was my homework on dash swapping. Then I came home and actually found a 1992 diesel truck wire harness on eBay. No, I have not pulled the trigger on it. The price is $200 +$84 shipping. The pictures show burned connectors, but in the description the seller says it is pictures of the wrong harness and that he will update the listing. I’m not getting warm fuzzy feelings.

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F293268429790

Between that and the LMC core support, the delivered price would come close to what I paid for the whole truck. Sometimes I am in favor of paying a premium to get rid of a problem and make it go away, but I’m not feeling it this time. I may regret passing it up, but I want to check some more junkyards first.
SHORT BED 4-DOOR DIESEL: 1986 F350 4x4 under construction-- 7.3 IDIT ZF5+GVOD

STRAIGHT SIX 4X4: 1981 F150 2wd to 4x4-- 300 I6 close ratio diesel T19, hydroboost brakes, Saginaw steering

BIG F: 1995 F-Superduty under construction— converting to 6.9L IDI diesel ZF5+DNE2
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Re: F-Superduty IDI water hauler build

grumpin
They have any bullnoses in that junkyard in Lake Havasu?

I go there sometimes. Might swing by next time I’m there.
Dane
1986 F250HD SC XLT Lariat 4x4 460 C6-Sold
1992 Bronco XLT 4x4 351W E4OD
1998 GMC Sierra SLE K1500 350 4L60E
Arizona
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Re: F-Superduty IDI water hauler build

Rembrant
In reply to this post by Ford F834
Hey Jon,
I haven't paid close attention to the aeronose trucks before, but in looking at this firewall pic, it doesn't look like swapping in an older steering column would all that bad. I know it's easier said than done, but still. If you bought a firewall brace, and bolted it in place using the clutch master cylinder hole bolts pictured, it would locate the teardrop hole for you perfectly.



You could install a piece from an older truck's firewall much like Dave did with his AC, but that's a lot of work. Personally I would install the brace on the inside and a sheet metal plate on the outside painted to match. Nobody would ever even notice it.

That is if you're even leaning towards that swap...

I've thought about this before because I've looked at trucks for sale with the full intention of converting to a Bullnose.
1994 F150 4x2 Flareside. 5.0 w/MAF, 4R70W, stock.
1984 F150 4X2 Flareside. Mild 302 w/ 5spd. Sold.
1980 F150 4X4 Flareside. 300i6 w/ 5spd. Sold in 2021.
1980 F100 4X2 Flareside. 351w/2bbl w/NP435. Sold in 1995

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Re: F-Superduty IDI water hauler build

ArdWrknTrk
Administrator
One minor gotcha to your reasoning, Cory is that the later (aero) trucks used a master cylinder with the studs on the diagonal, instead of one above the other.

They also used a clutch switch that mounts on the cab side of the master (concentric to the pushrod)
Instead of the ratcheting rack on the pedal itself as Gary has shown.

So, a harness variation and a difference in hardware.
Nothing insurmountable.

Other that the stub steering shaft and different punch out for it, I'm not certain what else is different or if the reinforcement plate will indeed fit the aero firewall in that location.

I'm not trying to be negative Nancy, I'm just trying to recall all the subtle differences across generations that could rear their ugly head.
Forewarned is forarmed.
 Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake.
Too much other stuff to mention.
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Re: F-Superduty IDI water hauler build

Rembrant
ArdWrknTrk wrote
One minor gotcha to your reasoning, Cory is that the later (aero) trucks used a master cylinder with the studs on the diagonal, instead of one above the other.

Other that the stub steering shaft and different punch out for it, I'm not certain what else is different or if the reinforcement plate will indeed fit the aero firewall in that location.
The clutch master cylinder stud locations wouldn't matter for the point I'm making. The firewall reinforcement brace has holes for both the straight up and down studs, and diagonal. I just meant that the firewall brace can be used as a location template. As long as you have one hole to register to...like the clutch master hole, it will automatically locate the steering column hole. Same in reverse...if you were converting an auto trans truck to manual, you could bolt the firewall brace to the teardrop steering column hole and perfectly locate the clutch master cylinder hole.

The other thing is, while the firewall brace was meant to support the clutch master cylinder, it also adds quite a bit of support around the steering column hole. So...if you were trying to swap an 80-91 column into an Aeronose truck, the brace would probably help support the column.

I was just thinking out loud is all...

Now whether the brace fits the Aero truck at all, I have no idea, but I don't see why it wouldn't. In the case of doing a Bullnose interior swap, I'd make it fit...lol.

Good point on the clutch master switch. I hadn't thought of that at all because I was thinking of swapping older stuff into the newer cab. I guess if you're using a pedal set from the aero cab, then yes you'll need the later master with the switch. However, if you're swapping in an older pedal set, then it would have a clutch switch already, and you could just use an 83-91 clutch master.
1994 F150 4x2 Flareside. 5.0 w/MAF, 4R70W, stock.
1984 F150 4X2 Flareside. Mild 302 w/ 5spd. Sold.
1980 F150 4X4 Flareside. 300i6 w/ 5spd. Sold in 2021.
1980 F100 4X2 Flareside. 351w/2bbl w/NP435. Sold in 1995

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Re: F-Superduty IDI water hauler build

ArdWrknTrk
Administrator
Oh, I didn't realize that.  

I have the smaller (triangle) brace, and it only has vertical holes.

100% in agreement with the rest of your points.  
Just things to note, before digging in.
 Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake.
Too much other stuff to mention.
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Re: F-Superduty IDI water hauler build

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ArdWrknTrk wrote
Oh, I didn't realize that.  
Well, I'm pretty sure the Terrapin made brace did, which is now NLA, but not sure on the KBG brace.

Bronco Graveyard brace...



Now discontinued Terrapin brace (This is the one I have in my truck)



Different masters...I originally bought the wrong one by mistake.



The braces have a slotted hole on the bottom, and two separate ones on the top. Pretty sure it fits both.
1994 F150 4x2 Flareside. 5.0 w/MAF, 4R70W, stock.
1984 F150 4X2 Flareside. Mild 302 w/ 5spd. Sold.
1980 F150 4X4 Flareside. 300i6 w/ 5spd. Sold in 2021.
1980 F100 4X2 Flareside. 351w/2bbl w/NP435. Sold in 1995

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Re: F-Superduty IDI water hauler build

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By the way...regarding the steering column swap, it almost looks like the round hole in the Aeronose firewall lands right in the circular portion of the teardrop in the 1980-1991 cab. No idea if it actually does...but it looks that way at a glance.

I know this swap has been done, but I don't know of all the fine details. There was a local guy here with a 1995 cab swapped on to a 1985 truck and he did a Bullnose interior swap too.
1994 F150 4x2 Flareside. 5.0 w/MAF, 4R70W, stock.
1984 F150 4X2 Flareside. Mild 302 w/ 5spd. Sold.
1980 F150 4X4 Flareside. 300i6 w/ 5spd. Sold in 2021.
1980 F100 4X2 Flareside. 351w/2bbl w/NP435. Sold in 1995

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