Engine block cast numbers

Been looking at new/refurbed blocks and using what I have a for a core charge. RA has a bunch of different models. I have been looking at the EFI and non EFI versions in case I decide I cannot adapt a EFI engine into the non efi truck.

Where do I find which model I have/block cast number?

Passenger side of the engine, just behind the starter, on the V8s. Unsure on the 6, but you didn't specify what engine you have.

That being said, any of them will be good, the bottom ends are all the same. Yes, there are subtle differences over the years but any of them can be adapted to factory EFI easily, and vice versa.

On the 300 ci Ford it is on the passenger side near the starter area. The main difference in the FI block and carb block is the pistons in the block. The EFI head has a smaller combustion chamber so the pistons have a deeper recess to keep the compression the same as it was before EFI. An EFI head on a block with carb pistons will give a bump in compression and a carb head with EFI pistons will result in a loss of compression.

This doesn't address differences, but might help:

Frank Wyatt wrote

On the 300 ci Ford it is on the passenger side near the starter area. The main difference in the FI block and carb block is the pistons in the block. The EFI head has a smaller combustion chamber so the pistons have a deeper recess to keep the compression the same as it was before EFI. An EFI head on a block with carb pistons will give a bump in compression and a carb head with EFI pistons will result in a loss of compression.

The F.I. block will not have the machined opening for the mechanical fuel pump. This can be rectified.

Also, the F.I. block will have 3 additional bolts for hanging the 3 piece intake and exhaust manifolds.

True on the 3 additional bolt holes for the dual exhaust manifolds and the mechanical fuel pump boss needing to be opened up if running a mechanical fuel pump. However the additional bolt holes for the exhaust will be on the head and not the block.

You guys are awesome thanks for the info.

Let me clarify my question a bit more.

My Carbed engine I'm sure needs a rebuild or replacement, lots of oil in the air filter, breather and pcv line when I drove it home. Messed up speedo gage had me thinking I was doing 70ish and I was actually doing like 80-83. But hey still got like 12mpg lol.

My EFI engine other than the miss fire has over 402,000 miles. Still pulls strong but still has over 402k on it.

Rather than tearing apart the block of the engine and rebuilding it, I think I will use it as a core charge and just get a remanned, tested, warrantied block and call it a day. Saves me time, especially since I have never rebuilt an engine before.

I honestly don't know what any of these details mean and which is the better way to go. If I am going to spend the money I want to get the best bang for my buck and also get something that doesn't have like some crazy engine mount or something, or won't bolt up with my other parts. I think a few of the differences is just smog vs not smog. And the EFI engines list Heart shaped combustion chambers vs D shaped of the carb'd as well. Not sure if that was a better design. Most every picture shows metal timing gears vs pheonleic which I prefer. Looks like the famous brands blocks at least list OEM numbers (ex: 9149C).

IF I keep the carburated engine(which does not have a complete smog system so will probably strip it) the options RA has are as follows:

1) $1118.89: Famous Brand DFA5 {#90949D}, Y vin number. In-Line Head Cast # D2TE-AA, D4TE-MA, E6TE-VA/D; Crank Cast # 1N, 1NABC, 2N, 2NABC; Block Cast # E1TE-AA, E5TE-AA, D5TE-AA; No SMOG, Bolt Down Rockers, With Fuel Pump Hole.

2) $1350.79 EXACT POWERTRAIN L30085WT Includes Gasket Kit and Oil Pump. W/ TE in Cylinder Head, W/ Flat Tappet Camshaft, W/ Fuel Pump Hole, W/ "D" Shaped Combustion Chambers, Rear Dipstick Only; Casting: Block - E4TE-JA, E1TE-AA, Heads - E4TE-AA, E5TE-UA, Crankshaft - 2 NABC

3) $1350.79 EXACT POWERTRAIN L30085NT Includes Gasket Kit, and Oil Pump. W/O TE in Cylinder Head, W/ Flat Tappet Camshaft, W/ Fuel Pump Hole, W/ "D" Shaped Combustion Chambers, W/ Front Dipstick; Casting: Block - E4TE-JA, E1TE-AA, Heads - E4TE-AA, E5TE-UA, Crankshaft - 2 NABC

4) $1184.79 FAMOUS BRAND DF81 {#9049C}In-Line Head Cast # D2TE-AA, D4TE-MA, E6TE-VA/D; Crank Cast # 1N, 1NABC, 2N, 2NABC; Block Cast # E1TE-AA, E5TE-MA, D5TE-AA; 6 SMOG Holes Each Head (over Exhaust Ports); Bolt Down Rockers


ON the EFI side of the house there are even more options, including some HD "High-Durability" Engines

1) $1377.79 EXACT POWERTRAIN L30087WT Includes Gasket Kit and Oil Pump; Engine VIN Y; W/ TE in Cylinder Head, W/ Flat Tappet Camshaft, W/O Fuel Pump Hole, W/ Heart Shaped Combustion Chambers, Rear Dipstick Only; Casting: Block - E7TE-DB, F0TE-DA, F2TE-BA, F4TE-GA, Heads - E7TE-DC, E7SE-DC, E7TE-NA, Crankshaft - 2 NABC; With Smog Holes In Cylinder Head

2)$1377.79 EXACT POWERTRAIN L30087NT Includes Gasket Kit and Oil Pump Engine VIN Y; W/ TE in Cylinder Head, W/ Flat Tappet Camshaft, W/O Fuel Pump Hole, W/ Heart Shaped Combustion Chambers, Rear Dipstick Only; Casting: Block - E7TE-DB, F0TE-DA, F2TE-BA, F4TE-GA, Heads - E7TE-DC, E7SE-DC, E7TE-NA, Crankshaft - 2 NABC; w/o Smog Holes In Cylinder Head

3)$1162.79 FAMOUS BRAND DFF8 {#9149C, 9149D} GAS; In-Line Head Cast # E6TE-VA, E7TE-DC; Crank Cast # 1N; Block Cast # E7TE-A, DB; Non Roller Cam, No SMOG, Knock Sensor Hole in Block

4)$1164.79 FAMOUS BRAND DF43  {09149A, 09149B, 9149A, 9149B} GAS; In-Line Head Cast # E6TE-VA, E7TE-DC, E5TE-VA; Crank Cast # 1N, 1NABC, 2N, 2NABC; Block Cast # E7TE, E5TE, F2TE; Non Roller Cam; 6 SMOG Holes over Each Exhaust; Knock Sensor Hole in Block;

5) $1378.79 FAMOUS BRAND VF43 {#1418A, 9149A, 9149B} AS; In-Line Head Cast # E6TE-VA, E7TE-DC; Crank Cast # 1N; Block Cast # E7TE, E5TE, F2TE; Assembled with Tinware, Non Roller Cam; 6 SMOG Holes over Each Exhaust Port; Knock Sensor Hole In Block;

6) $1429.99 FAMOUS BRAND HD13 {#9149C, 9149D} HD; GAS; In-Line Head Cast # E6TE-VA, E7TE-DC; Crank Cast # 1N; Block Cast # E7TE-A, DB, High Durability Build; HDE: (High Durability Engine); Knock Sensor in Block; No SMOG Holes in Head;

7) $1431.79 FAMOUS BRAND HD14 {#9149A, 9149B} HD; GAS; Crank Cast # 2MAE; Right Head Cast # E5TE-AB, E7TE-PA; Left Head Cast # E5TE-AB, E7TE-PA; Block Cast # E7TE-CA, E7TE-EA, High Durability Build; HDE: (High Durability Engine); Knock Sensor in Block; SMOG Holes over Each Exhaust Port;

OK, I see that you are looking at possibly leaning toward a long block, that includes the head. If you will be running a mechanical fuel pump then you would want an engine with the fuel pump hole. There's no difference in the engine mounts between the EFI and non EFI engines. Getting a long block is a good choice as all the machine work has already been done and you get a warranty. In that case you would want to get an engine that matches the fuel system that you'll be running[EFI or carburetor] as drilling a hole for a mech fuel pump into the EFI block would most likely void the warranty. A properly maintained carbureted Ford 300/4.9 engine will last just as long as one with EFI. The 300 in my truck likely has well over 300,00 miles on it and it runs as good as any new one. Proper maintenance is the key to keeping any engine, EFI or not running well for many miles.

I think I am going to have to maybe have number dummy or someone pull the numbers because there are from what I can tell 4 versions of the EFI block and two versions of the carbed block. Im curious what the difference is. This was a time when Ford was constantly modifying things. Could be that version B had a few engineering modifications over A that affected compression or economy etc.

I don't believe there were any differences that would keep you from using one over the other. The bell housing and engine mount bolt holes and their locations never changed from the '60's when the engine was introduced to the '90's when it was dropped. There were minor changes  like adding on to the boss between the distributor and the oil pressure sender port for a threaded in oil dipstick for the rear sump oil pan. I have an engine here that has that. The one in my truck does not have that so it's dipstick tube is mounted to the oil pan. You do however have to use a rear sump oil pan in our trucks. That is the main thing that you may want to be sure of. If the oil pan on your engine has the dipstick tube mounted to the pan, then you can use it on any version of the block with the matching pickup tube you already have. So in conclusion, you will see blocks with rear mounted dipstick and front mount dipstick, but if you have an oil pan with the dipstick mounted to it, it can be used on either one.

This shows all I can tell you about the blocks for the 300 as all I know is what I read in the MPC.  But note that there are no casting numbers.

Oops, posted too quickly.  You can look up the calibration codes here: Calibration Info & Part #'s.


EDIT: I forgot the very last snip.  It is there now.

Don't miss the edit.  I'd forgotten the crucial snippet on the bottom.

This was listed in the Fordsix Performance Forum...

The cam bearing housing bore on the Ford 300 engines manufactured after June 4th, 1985 was changed to make production installation quicker.
Previously all four housing bores measured 2.1440.
The late style block with the casting number E1TE-6015AA, has the following cam bearing housing bore dimensions:

Location Part # Bore Diameter
1 E5TZ-6261A 2.1590
2 E5TZ-6262A 2.1440
3 E5TZ-6262A 2.1440
4 E5TZ-6261A 2.1590

There are two main thrust bearings. A 3.567" OD flange and 3.602" OD bearing flange.

The 1987 and later EFI blocks have the boss with the two bolt holes for the fuel pump but the hole for the pump arm is closed. It can be opened for a mechanical fuel pump.

good info