Edelbrock 4 barrel install question

I am preparing to install a 600 CFM electric choke Edelbrock carb on my 351W. I have 2 questions so I can get it right the first time.

1. Fuel pressure: With a stock mechanical fuel pump am I likely to need a fuel pressure regulator? I understand Edelbrocks don't like much pressure.

2. Choke: my plan is to operate the electric choke with a relay triggered from the stator wire of a 3G alternator. Will this wire give enough voltage to trigger a Bosch type relay?

Thanks for any info from the hive?

I did this exact conversion a few years ago.

You are installing an Eddy 4-v intake also?

don't use the front and rear gaskets, just clean the block flanges with spray gun stripper/cleaner real good, get into the nooks and crannies, then use RTV.

Yes get a regulator, mine is set to 6psi, never had an issue.

Just feed the choke with 12v

reamer

Ron is right.  But, to answer the questions you asked, and a couple you didn't:

Regulator: I ran an Eddy w/o a regulator and had no problems.  But, it is a bit of the luck of the draw as the output of some mechanical fuel pumps can be well above the max of 6 psi that an Eddy likes.  So, to be sure I'd get a regulator like this one, which is the one I'm running on Big Blue.  Add on the gauge shown on that page and you'll be able to dial it right in.

Relay: The stator voltage pulls a Bosch-style relay in just fine, and that is the way I like to run the choke.  That way it doesn't heat up when the engine isn't running.

Kickdown Linkage: There's no provision for the kickdown linkage of the C6 on the Eddy.  But, Edelbrock makes a kit that bolts on and works well for that.

Throttle Linkage: In my experience most aftermarket intakes reposition the carb to the rear enough that there is lots of slack in the throttle linkage.  To fix that Edelbrock makes a kit, but I don't like it as it is flimsy.  Instead, I cut the stock throttle cable bracket in half, bolt the bottom half to the manifold and move the top half around until I almost have the slack out.  Then I clamp a piece of steel between the two parts, remove the bracket and weld things together.

Done this one as well too.

Used a 1406 and a Performer manifold. Also ran Hooker long tube headers. Performance was so so, but that likely was the stock cam.

The Edelbrock kickdown and throttle cable kits were useless. Been a while, but I modified stock pieces from the 2bbl manifold that I removed and this worked reasonably well.

I did not run a fuel pressure regulator. That likely was the cause of a hot start problem that I chronically had. Holding the accelerator to the floor was the only way to start a hot engine.

If the truck sat for a week or longer, the fuel would seem to drain back. Extended cranking while pumping the accelerator was the norm to start.

I ran the choke directly off the stator wire. Surprisingly, this worked well, although I like the idea of the relay and running a full 12 volts to the choke. The stator measures somewhere around 7 volts if I recall correctly and it certainly is not pure DC.

I've been meaning to ask these same questions as I also have a new Edelbrock Performer intake for my 302, and a new Holley 4160 w/electric choke.

I've read that the Edelbrock carbs are sensitive to the fuel pressure. Is this a problem with Holleys as well?
I do have an aftermarket fuel pump on mine as it was replaced not long before I bought the truck.

Can I not re-use the wire that went to the choke/carb on my old factory 2bbl carb? There was a white wire that ran along the valve cover on the RH (passenger) side of the engine to the carb. If I have to supply 12vdc that is fine, but I assumed that existing wire already did.

The fuel pressure problem is an Edelbrock or Carter thing, and Holleys don't seem to have problems with a bit more pressure.  So there's no need for a regulator on yours.

However, the "white wire" should actually be white with a black stripe, and comes from the stator terminal on the alternator - as shown on Page 15 here.  As Ray said, it will have about 7v and will be pulsing.  All of the aftermarket Holleys I've seen have had 12v chokes but, as Ray experienced with the Edelbrock, the power from the stator wire will work.  But, you'll probably need to adjust the choke as it will take too long to come off with the initial setting.

That's why the better way is with a relay, as shown on Page 53 here.  The power from the alternator's stator is enough to pull a relay in, and the relay connects full battery voltage to the choke.

Gary Lewis wrote

However, the "white wire" should actually be white with a black stripe, and comes from the stator terminal on the alternator...

Yes, sir, just checked and you are correct. I hadn't even checked into these wires prior to seeing the discussion here. I will likely run a switched 12v source then.

Thanks for the replies, guys.
Yes I have a 4v manifold on the truck now that uses a plate to bolt on a 2v carb. and a different plate for 4v carb. The manifold was installed just as was suggested.
Gary, I have the kick-down kit and the linkage kit (we will see if that works) and will look into the regulator you suggested. As they say about other things, better to have it and not need it than need it and not have it. Thanks for the info on choke wiring also.
 

Let us know.  

Looking forward to seeing how you get along here, I hope you post some pics!