Eddy Myrtle

Dust shields aren't hard to find for a 150. -aftermarket-

It's when you get to the 8,600+ brakes they are (were?) unobtainable.

Gary Lewis wrote

Wow!  That looks fantastic!

X💯

Gary Lewis wrote

Wow!  That looks fantastic!

On the brake dust shields, it is Shaun's fault as he said I could do it.  

On those seals, go here: Documentation/Driveline/Axles And Differentials and go to the Instructions and then Dana 44 tabs.  That gets you the section from the factory shop manual.

As for the engine paint, how did you like the POR paint?

Thanks Gary.

I did not find any details other than the part numbers for the axle/spindle seals. I bought a digital copy of the factory shop manual years ago, truth be told, don't think I've ever used it for anything. The Haynes manual is way more useful in my garage! But anyway, the old seal on the axle appears fine.

As for the engine enamel, OK I guess. The first coat was terrible, but almost certainly because I did not mix it well enough. I painted straight from the can(1/2 pint) with a sponge brush. The engine had a coat of paint on it from the builder. Two coats were sufficient and would be in most cases I think. Some reviews said more were required, but I did not find that to be the case(especially not once the paint was mixed properly), maybe if you apply it to bare metal? The finish looks good I think, you don't see brush strokes, but time will tell how it holds up. What are you/have you used on Dad's?

ArdWrknTrk wrote

Dust shields aren't hard to find for a 150. -aftermarket-

It's when you get to the 8,600+ brakes they are (were?) unobtainable.

Wish I had found some... There are aftermarket ones on Ebay, but all 5 lug that I found. Just looked again now and found used 6 lug ones for $105... https://www.ebay.com/itm/BRAKE-DUST-SHIELD-COVER-FORD-F150-1987-1988-DANA-44-IFS-RIGHT-LEFT-SIDE-87-88/362752935946?fits=Model%3AF-150%7CMake%3AFord&hash=item5475c2880a:g:OlMAAOSw-itXve1Q:sc:USPSPriorityFlatRateBox!35094!US!-1

Anyway, I think it will be OK without any.

POR-15 usually goes one quite thin and takes a couple of coats minimum to cover.  That's kind of why I was asking.  But once it cures it is TOUGH!

Anyway, your paint job looks good.  Bet it'll work well.

Life goals, looks great

So I managed to find a good set of EFI exhaust manifolds at a local salvage yard and the owner was kind enough to let me pull it from one of his 'complete' engines. Made removing it reasonably easy and quick.



I also ordered an intake manifold. I painted the intake with engine enamel and the exhaust with flameproof, hopefully it holds up. The exhaust manifolds were sand blasted first.



I got some generic hardware from Tractor Supply, grade 5 bolts and grade 8 washers, to replace the original stuff. I also used both gaskets which helped level the difference between the manifolds. It appears to be rock-solid, but who knows what vibration can do. I'll definitely keep an eye on it to make sure the exhaust manifolds don't slip... I'm happy with how it looks, so if it holds I probably won't bother with changing to a later head.





I ordered the Y-pipe from Advanced Auto. I painted the top part with the Flameproof(VHT) as well, hopefully it doesn't flake off or smoke away at the first start up!





I got a replacement pushrod cover from the same engine a few days later. Don't ask why I needed a new one... That engine does not look healthy inside, so I probably wouldn't want that head anyway...



It cleaned up nicely though...





It is a different design from the carb models, any particular reason?



Now I just have to order a carb spacer, wiring harness and probably HEI distributor to continue the engine assembly. The cab is going back on first...

Man, that is looking GOOD!  And it is coming along quite nicely.  

On the side cover, I'm guessing it is just a later/better design.  The raised rib on the newer design would keep the cover straighter and probably help keep it sealed.  The older style would tend to fold between the bolts.

That really does look Great, Rob!  

A lot of work went into cleaning and painting that frame and running gear.

Which Rancho shocks do you have, and why did you choose them?

Gary Lewis wrote

Man, that is looking GOOD!  And it is coming along quite nicely.  

On the side cover, I'm guessing it is just a later/better design.  The raised rib on the newer design would keep the cover straighter and probably help keep it sealed.  The older style would tend to fold between the bolts.

Thanks Gary. And we'll just say that's exactly why I had to replace my pushrod cover...

ArdWrknTrk wrote

That really does look Great, Rob!  

A lot of work went into cleaning and painting that frame and running gear.

Which Rancho shocks do you have, and why did you choose them?

Thanks Jim. Yes, the frame and axles were definitely the biggest task so far. I'm pretty sick(probably actually too) of applying Chassis Saver by hand with little sponge brushes.

The Rancho's are the RS5000 range. Only got them as I needed something to go with the leveling coils(1.5" lift). They fit the bill and were reasonably priced. Can't find them on Rockauto anymore, but that's where I got them. As it turns out, they aren't perfect, with the thicker tube at the bottom, they are awfully close to the coils. I'll know when I get the truck on the road if it's workable or not...

Looks great! Nice job!

Sac79 wrote

I got some generic hardware from Tractor Supply, grade 5 bolts and grade 8 washers, to replace the original stuff. I also used both gaskets which helped level the difference between the manifolds. It appears to be rock-solid, but who knows what vibration can do. I'll definitely keep an eye on it to make sure the exhaust manifolds don't slip... I'm happy with how it looks, so if it holds I probably won't bother with changing to a later head.

It has been recommended by a former Ford Engineer, to take a piece of "L" shaped channel, ~1" long with a hole drilled into it on one side, which slips over the rear most bolt of each exhaust manifold. This effectively captures the manifold and prevents it from slipping downward.

1986F150Six wrote

It has been recommended by a former Ford Engineer, to take a piece of "L" shaped channel, ~1" long with a hole drilled into it on one side, which slips over the rear most bolt of each exhaust manifold. This effectively captures the manifold and prevents it from slipping downward.


Thanks David. I remember you saying this in the other thread. I'm picturing a 90 deg piece forming a 'ledge' for the bottom edge of the manifold to rest on, is that right? You also mentioned that other owners have not done the 'upgrade' and experienced no issues, I'm hoping I can be one of those. If not, I'll consider the reinforcement or an EFI head, which should work right?

Sac79 wrote

Thanks David. I remember you saying this in the other thread. I'm picturing a 90 deg piece forming a 'ledge' for the bottom edge of the manifold to rest on, is that right? You also mentioned that other owners have not done the 'upgrade' and experienced no issues, I'm hoping I can be one of those. If not, I'll consider the reinforcement or an EFI head, which should work right?

Yes... to both of the above statements. If an EFI head is used, there will be 3 additional holes for bolts, which are for securing the exhaust manifolds, so no brackets are necessary. However, keep in mind that the EFI head has smaller combustion chambers [+~1/2 point compression ratio] and fast burn characteristics.

Sac79 wrote

1986F150Six wrote

It has been recommended by a former Ford Engineer, to take a piece of "L" shaped channel, ~1" long with a hole drilled into it on one side, which slips over the rear most bolt of each exhaust manifold. This effectively captures the manifold and prevents it from slipping downward.

Thanks David. I remember you saying this in the other thread. I'm picturing a 90 deg piece forming a 'ledge' for the bottom edge of the manifold to rest on, is that right? You also mentioned that other owners have not done the 'upgrade' and experienced no issues, I'm hoping I can be one of those. If not, I'll consider the reinforcement or an EFI head, which should work right?


Look at posts #3 & 12:

https://fordsix.com/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=78974&p=609538&hilit=FI+clips+Clifford+alignment#p609538

Thanks David. I guess I need to be a registered user though as I'm unable to see the picture. Regardless I have a good idea of what's required. And I know exactly where the manifolds are located as I aligned the bottom of the EFI manifold tabs with the bottom of the gasket, so I can easily see if they're shifting.

I'll keep an eye out for an appropriately shaped and sized piece of metal to cut into retainer clips, just in case...

I've just joined and I've learned more about my inline 6 motor in 10 minutes than I have in 5 years. thank you!

Hi Jon, welcome. There is definitely better places to 'learn' than on my thread as I'm only learning myself! But I'm happy to share... And we are lucky as we have the easiest engines to work on!

I'm happy to report that more progress has been made.

Cab mounted...



And the windshield cleaned.

Inside cleaned and the floor painted with Chassis Saver.



The underside was painted with CS too.



BTW, which way is the vent hose in the above picture suppose to be orientated?

Driveshafts...



New bushings on the stabilizer bar and all new steering 'rack'. It's my old steering box, just cleaned and painted. I bought a rebuild kit for the pump and I plan on using that too.



Rear stabilizer with new bushings and end-links.



'New' alternator bracket. I also got a remanufactured alternator as I didn't feel like cleaning and painting the old one, but for a $10 core I kept it just in case the new Chinese one fails... It does have a Motorcraft case though. I'm going to have to remove the bracket again to install the alternator...



And my comical looking HEI distributor. It fits but it is huge!



And then finally I'm currently busy with interior... I went with Killmat after studying Gary's cost evaluation... Padding and carpet to follow. But I'm also working on finishing the brakes and the fuel. Then probably putting more of the interior together before starting the wiring.



I have some unknown parts, but I'll post questions in the main section.