E4OD For Dad’s Truck
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Re: E4OD For Dad's Truck
 
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Re: E4OD For Dad's Truck
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Re: E4OD For Dad's Truck
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Re: E4OD For Dad's Truck
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Re: E4OD For Dad's Truck
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In reply to this post by Bruno2
I moved the E4OD out of my new truck and onto an engine stand today. Here's a shot mid-transfer:
 And here it is on the engine stand, where I discovered that it had been painted from "above". In other words, the part you won't be able to see when it is installed was fairly well painted, and the part you can see from below had a very thin coat.  So, to answer Brandon's question, I did have to paint the tranny to make it match the transfer case as well as to put a bit more paint on the bottom. And, the engine stand certainly facilitated that project. I put on about one full can of Eastwood's Detail Gray. Here's the bottom view:  And here's a top-side view: 
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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Re: E4OD For Dad's Truck
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Looks very good!
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Re: E4OD For Dad's Truck
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Thanks, David.
I just have to get Huck out of the shop and off to the scrap metal place and then I can start installing the front end on Dad's truck. Most of the parts are powder coated or painted, so that should go fairly smoothly. Then comes the real fun - lift the cab off and install the engine and tranny as a unit. Along the way I'll have to prop the back of the tranny up while I mark and drill the holes for the E4OD-specific crossmember that also came from Huck. Then the cab can sit down and it'll look like some progress has been made. 
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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"Then the cab can sit down and it'll look like some progress has been made."
And, progress is good! 
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Re: E4OD For Dad's Truck
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Re: E4OD For Dad's Truck
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In reply to this post by 1986F150Six
You beat Jim to it.
 John Keeline, the paint/body man, was down recently and we discussed the plan to put the cab back on the frame. He's quite invested in this truck and I'm thinking that if it is close I'll ask him to come down and help me. However, if I chock the wheels it should go back from whence it came. And, I have fender covers and towels that could be used to pad the front of the bed, so it shouldn't be a problem.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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Re: E4OD For Dad's Truck
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Re: E4OD For Dad's Truck
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In reply to this post by Gary Lewis
Unless in keeping with today's world. it's transgender.
Bill AKA "LOBO" Profile
"Getting old is inevitable, growing up is optional" Darth Vader 1986 F350 460 converted to MAF/SEFI, E4OD 12X3 1/2 rear brakes, traction loc 3:55 gear, 160 amp 3G alternator Wife's 2011 Flex Limited Daily Driver 2009 Flex Limited with factory tow package Project car 1986 Chrysler LeBaron convertible 2.2L Turbo II, modified A413 |
Re: E4OD For Dad's Truck
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Let's re-open this thread in order to capture some details about installing an E4OD behind an M-block. With the help of Steve/FoxFord33 we took copious measurements from the 460 on the stand and the 400 in Dad's truck. Then we drew what we'd seen up in CAD and discovered that an E4OD is a perfect fit behind an M-block, unlike the ZF5.
The drawing on the left below is of the 460, and you can see the crank (red), the flexplate with ring gear (orange), and the torque converter (green). Then the drawing on the right introduces the 400's crank and flexplate, both of which are blue. And one thing to note is that the two flexplates and ring gears are essentially in the same place, although the 400's is .006" further forward than the 460's. Big deal. That says that the torque converter will bolt up perfectly to the 400's flexplate. And that either the M-block starter or a starter for a 460 with an auto tranny will work. Another thing to notice is that the pilot of the torque converter does go into the 400's crank, although only .332" as opposed to the .862" it engages the 460's crank. But according to Dale, of B&I Torque Converters in OKC, the .332" is quite adequate. All that is needed is to center the torque converter, and that will do it. Last, note that the torque converter doesn't butt up against the end of the crank when bolted to a 400 like it does on a 460. According to Dale, some E4OD torque converters have bulged under high pressure, and w/o support there on the 400 there could be a problem. Fortunately the torque converter they built for me has a "billet back" and he was sure that it will have no problems even though it won't touch the crank. But, had I not gone for the HD converter with the billet back he thought there might be a problem.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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Re: E4OD For Dad's Truck
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Now let's talk about crossmembers. The E4OD uses a crossmember that is very different than any used in the Bullnose trucks in that it mounts in the normal fashion on the left, meaning it rests on the bottom flange of the frame and has a gusset up to the top flange, but it actually goes outside of the frame on the right. Here's a pic of the right end of mine installed:
 But the question becomes how to determine where to put the crossmember. I wrestled with that for quite a while today as the frame rails aren't parallel and the crossmember has a dog-leg in it, so measuring just didn't work. Finally I decided that I'd position it so that the studs on the transmission's mount were centered in the slots on the crossmember, and that worked. In fact, there was an existing hole on the bottom rail of Dad's truck's left frame rail that was perfectly located for the bottom bolt. So I put a alignment pin in there and checked the right side - and it was about right as well. So I clamped the crossmember in place and marked all of the holes. Then I drilled the holes and test-fit the crossmember - perfect. And, thinking that the shiny metal would make it easier for you to see where the holes are, here's a pic of the left side. And, here's a bit of explanation: The "Original for C6" holes were what the truck came with, and probably should have just been marked "Original" since all of the transmission crossmembers used them.The "ZF5 using C6 gussets" holes were ones I drilled to install a ZF5 using, as it says, the gussets that were used with the C6 crossmember. But there were different gussets for the ZF5 that allow using the original crossmember and the ZF5 gussets w/o drilling new holes. But I didn't know that at the time.
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Impressive work and documentation.
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