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Door lock actuator mounts
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Door lock actuator mounts
 
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Adding these (and power windows) to Camano. Cleaned them up and had a couple questions.
I was planning on using stainless steel Allen button head bolts to mount them vs the rivet. Curious what everyone else uses. Other question being: why do they swivel? I didn't really play around with them as I was pulling them at the jy. 
Scott
'Camano' 1986 F250 Supercab XLT Lariat 460/C6 'Chanute' 1980 F350 C&C 400/NP 435 - Gin Pole But there ain't nothin' wrong with the radio |
Re: Door lock actuator mounts
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Scott - I'm not familiar with those. What part are they from this drawing?
 Or, is it basically the thing shown on the actuator shown here? 
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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Re: Door lock actuator mounts
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You got it - they are the part on the actuator there. The actuator snaps onto them and they themselves are riveted to the door under the latch. I haven't looked - new ones may come with although not sure why they would since they are removable.
The factory rivet is a weird split out thing you can see in the uncoated one. Think I answered the swivel part though. I'd assumed the rod had enough play to install in the door latch assembly even after the actuator is mounted but it feels pretty firm. So would make sense that you mount it askew and then rotate it into the hole in the retainer. 
Scott
'Camano' 1986 F250 Supercab XLT Lariat 460/C6 'Chanute' 1980 F350 C&C 400/NP 435 - Gin Pole But there ain't nothin' wrong with the radio |
Re: Door lock actuator mounts
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In reply to this post by kramttocs
 Because it's quicker, easier, cheaper to mount them with 1 fastener than with several. And so the operating rod can be removed from the latch later for service. On the assembly line, the lock motor is attached to the latch, and they're installed together. The last thing to go in is the common 1/4" pop rivet to hold the lock motor to the door skin. In later vehicles, the motor's rod cannot be disengaged from the latch while both are attached to the door skin - it's a Z-bend instead of an L. But if you want to use the later motors, just cut that last leg off so it can be removed like the original. |
Re: Door lock actuator mounts
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Re: Door lock actuator mounts
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This post was updated on .
I have attached them with M6X1.0 bolts and what they call "prevailing torque" nuts (the ones that look like they were stepped on). I have had no problems with mounting them that way Be sure you get the wiring and switches too.
Driver's side:  Passenger side: 
Bill AKA "LOBO" Profile
"Getting old is inevitable, growing up is optional" Darth Vader 1986 F350 460 converted to MAF/SEFI, E4OD 12X3 1/2 rear brakes, traction loc 3:55 gear, 160 amp 3G alternator Wife's 2011 Flex Limited Daily Driver 2009 Flex Limited with factory tow package Project car 1986 Chrysler LeBaron convertible 2.2L Turbo II, modified A413 |