I would caution you to use caution the first few times you drive it on snowy highways in 4WD. As I said above, I've heard that a TrueTrac in front is invisible, but I also know how dangerous it can be when one front tire pulls and tries to make you veer into the next lane. So just be careful until you know what it does. And then report back! I think there are aftermarket mechanical CADs. Or at least there were. They might have just been available for the thermally actuated GM units (can you imagine a worse idea than needing something under the truck to get hot so you can drive out of the deep snow you are stuck in ). But it might be worth looking into.
Bob
Sorry, no '80 - '86 Ford trucks "Oswald": 1997 F-250HD crew cab short box, 460, E4OD, 4.10 gears "Pluto": 1971 Bronco, 302, NV3550 5 speed, Atlas 4.3:1 transfer case, 33" tires "the motorhome": 2015 E-450-based 28' class C motorhome, 6.8L V-10 "the Dodge": 2007 Dodge 2500, 6.7L Cummins |
In reply to this post by Gary Lewis
I tested it on shallow mud and I had significantly less control in 2WD even though my rear tires were grabbing just fine. I just kept it in 4WD the entire access road I was driving and didn't notice any trouble with steering. I did hear some clunking noises that might have been tire engagement but it also might have been the CAD malfunctioning. As long as I didn't drive in someone else's ruts I could point the truck wherever I needed to. Still needs more test data until I can tell you for sure it's trouble-free. I need to find time to get under the truck and inspect the lines. I am just way too busy these days. What's your plan for the 10.25? Thank you for the advice. I'm not sure if I will encounter a snowy highway but I'll keep that knowledge in my arsenal. A manual mechanical or even electrical actuator for the CAD would be much better, I understand that vacuum might have been chosen due to manufacturing costs but there's got to be a better way. If I can't figure out the solution very easily I might try making it permanently engaged if that's possible without a delete kit. Though I'd rather not because I haven't even checked my fuel economy with all the upgrades yet and gas is $5.50+
1982 Bronco restomod in progress: Built 4.9L, T19 4spd, 9" 3.00 rear w/ Eaton TrueTrac, 31" tires, fuel injection soon
https://www.youtube.com/@jimjamauto |
Deleting the CAD isn't a bad option. Dodge did it themselves by 2007 when my truck was made.
Bob
Sorry, no '80 - '86 Ford trucks "Oswald": 1997 F-250HD crew cab short box, 460, E4OD, 4.10 gears "Pluto": 1971 Bronco, 302, NV3550 5 speed, Atlas 4.3:1 transfer case, 33" tires "the motorhome": 2015 E-450-based 28' class C motorhome, 6.8L V-10 "the Dodge": 2007 Dodge 2500, 6.7L Cummins |
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In reply to this post by JimJam300
Just putting it back with all Dana/Spicer parts (except the pinion yoke that's NLA.
I've beat on this ting for close to 40 years, and I don't have that much left in me now so I consider it "lifetime replacement"
Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake. Too much other stuff to mention. |
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