Best intake manifold gasket - 351W

Let's try this again since I messed up the original title.
Since I may have experienced an intake manifold failure (water leakage front and back) on my
351W with Edelbrock Performer manifold, I would appreciate your (you'alls in Kentucky) input on the best quality intake manifold gasket for same.
Also, the preferred procedure for proper installation.
What say you (you'all)?
Thanks

Copied and pasted from your other thread:

Stock un-ported heads on this 351w? Did you say the intake was an Edelbrock Performer?

If yes, I think the Fel-Pro 1250 and 1250S3 are good choices. I don't think the Performer has an exhaust crossover, so the 1250S3 would be good imho. If you need the crossover, go with the 1250.

I use Permatex Grey around all 4 coolant ports, and both ends of the manifold at the "China walls".

I've used the fancy ARP SBF manifold bolts before, but the 5.0 I'm doing now I bought some grade 8 5/16" bolts. I bought 2.25" long bolts this time just to make sure I get lots of bite...I think the factory bolts are 2"? Probably overkill, but whatever.

Torqued to spec in 3 stages, and let it sit overnight to dry if possible.

I think it was Bill on here that suggested I use 4 long guides (long bolts with the heads cut off) to ensure you lower the manifold on to the engine perfectly square and even. They're in my tool box now;).

When I replaced the intake manifold gaskets on my 351w with performer intake I used Edelbrock gaskets the first time, they failed in less than 6 months.

Second time around I used felpro. If you look at my project thread for Espy it is on page 16.

Not sure how to link to posts.

Yes, stock un-ported heads and Edelbrock Performer manifold. First install I used a Fel-pro 1250, and some type of RTV on the walls but may have installed too soon or not used enough RTV. I plan to use "install studs" this time.  
Just wondered if there was a better gasket set and the best procedure for installation.
Thanks.

the procedure already listed are good. definitely worthwhile to "stud" the four corners. one added benefit to this is the later benefit on removal. has anyone else broken the four corner bolts off and had to drill them out ? the only added quirk would be on removal it will need to come strait up . that is unless you remove and go back with bolts. and especially on the ends use anti seize.

mat in tn wrote

has anyone else broken the four corner bolts off and had to drill them out ? the only added quirk would be on removal it will need to come strait up . that is unless you remove and go back with bolts. and especially on the ends use anti seize.

Yes. On the '96 5.0 I just rebuilt, the two corner bolts on the driver's side head snapped off. I was able to get one out, the other one I left for the engine shop. Those corner bolts are exposed to the elements on the outside, and they're the ones that see the coolant leaks first, so they always rust in place.

Thanks gentlemen, I appreciate the advice.

I've deleted your original thread.

Do you know that if you go back to the edit window of your first post you are able to edit the title as well?

I didn't then but I do now. Thanks!

For the post you want to link to, go to the right side, choose 'more', then choose the bottom of the drop-down 'permalink', copy the string.
Highlight the text in your post, click link, back out the auto filled 'http' and paste the permalink into the url dialog box, click ok.


I think this is the rant you wanted to share.  🙂