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Attempting a Paint restoration - Qs and tips?

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delco1946

Attempting a Paint restoration - Qs and tips?

I’ve been researching making the plunge into getting a dual action polisher to attempt to restore my trucks original paint. A couple questions:

A 1981 ford pickup would have a single stage paint job correct? Sounds like you’re limited with regards to rubbing compound if you’re dealing with a second stage/ clear coat.

Anyone have any general tips/recommendations? I’m leaning towards a porter cable for both cost and review reasons - and would expect to toss the foam pad it comes with based on comments - no big deal. If I wanna pay a bit more the Meguiars DA looks good but seems to have more problems with vibration and mechanical quality issues. Any products/ processes youve used with success on these trucks?

Christopher in Portland Or. 1981 F250 Ranger XLT 4x4 trailer special 351M, and auto C6

Gary Lewis

Re: Attempting a Paint restoration - Qs and tips?

Administrator

Not all Bullnose paints were single stage. The page at Specifications/Exterior Paint Codes has a table that shows which ones did.

I put a snippet below from that page and you can see that Light Charcoal Metallic in 86 and '7 had a clear coat. So you can find your code from the certification label, look it up in the CODE column, and see if it was clear coated.

EDIT: You said '81, and I don't see any of those paints having a clear coat.

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow
Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/ZF5/3.55's, D60 w/Ox locker & 10.25 Sterling/Trutrac, Blue Top & Borgeson, & EEC-V MAF/SEFI

delco1946

Re: Attempting a Paint restoration - Qs and tips?

My paint codes are 5G (Dark Caramel Metallic) and 9A (white) so I have single stage paints (whew!)

Christopher in Portland Or. 1981 F250 Ranger XLT 4x4 trailer special 351M, and auto C6

reamer

Re: Attempting a Paint restoration - Qs and tips?

Interesting the snip-it does not show code "3G" Bright Regatta Blue Poly....That's what 00-BGUB is..

1986 F-150 Flareside 4x4, 351, 4-v, ZF5 speed. AC, Cruise, Tilt, Slider, Digital clock, Radio, Lariat seat, Pwr doors/locks

Gary Lewis

Re: Attempting a Paint restoration - Qs and tips?

Administrator

That is interesting. I even went back to the MPC to see if I'd missed it, but there's no 3G their either.

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

PetesPonies

Re: Attempting a Paint restoration - Qs and tips?

In reply to this post by delco1946

A dual action polisher is almost worthless. I paint, which means I cut and buff often. You don't want a DA buffer, trust me.

Pete's Ponies
Mustang RUSToration & Performance

1982 F100 Flareside
1983 Bronco

delco1946

Re: Attempting a Paint restoration - Qs and tips?

I started last night, and boy are my arms tired. I totally get what you saying now about the DA polishers (or probably any polisher). There are so few flat spots on my truck that it wouldn’t get much use. Considering it’s about a 200 dollar investment, I’d rather have those trailer mirrors on eBay

.

I did the passenger side and it looks pretty good! Still rust spots of course but the rest of it looks much nicer. The hood is pretty toasty from years in the sun so I went to a professional grade abrasive (doesn’t break down) as well as a coarser one. Stuck a pad in my drill to speed up that indelicate process.

Christopher in Portland Or. 1981 F250 Ranger XLT 4x4 trailer special 351M, and auto C6

delco1946

Re: Attempting a Paint restoration - Qs and tips?

Christopher in Portland Or. 1981 F250 Ranger XLT 4x4 trailer special 351M, and auto C6

Gary Lewis

Re: Attempting a Paint restoration - Qs and tips?

Administrator

Wow! That looks good!

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

PetesPonies

Re: Attempting a Paint restoration - Qs and tips?

In reply to this post by delco1946

Not true about" any" polisher, or I would have said that. You just bought the wrong piece of equipment. You probably also didn't get the best material to use. If you are serious, I will lay it out for you. Let me know.

Pete's Ponies
Mustang RUSToration & Performance

1982 F100 Flareside
1983 Bronco

delco1946

Re: Attempting a Paint restoration - Qs and tips?

Hey All, fast forward to today. There's been enough panel damage after the ice storm that the local repair shop will be touching ~50% of the cab. I found a NOS hood and right fender. Not sure what they'll recommend for the roof but this is the time to clean up/repair the drip rails too. The left fender could be repaired if I want - or replaced with a new one (haven't decided yet).

This is the point at which I think it makes sense to repaint the whole front end. I want to match the original paint codes. What info do I need to give to the shop to make this happen? I don't want them to match the existing paint which has faded and oxidized, but rather I want them to recreate the original paint. Also, should they do this as a single stage paint or is there a better technology that i should ask them to switch too (such as clear coat)?

I assume they need more than 5G and 9A, but what more exactly, I do not know....

Christopher in Portland Or. 1981 F250 Ranger XLT 4x4 trailer special 351M, and auto C6

ArdWrknTrk

Re: Attempting a Paint restoration - Qs and tips?

Administrator

They don't need anything more than the manufacture date and the paint codes.

Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake.
Too much other stuff to mention.

delco1946

Re: Attempting a Paint restoration - Qs and tips?

at least something is easy haha

Christopher in Portland Or. 1981 F250 Ranger XLT 4x4 trailer special 351M, and auto C6

delco1946

Re: Attempting a Paint restoration - Qs and tips?

Is there a way to confirm exterior color and tape color? my paint codes off the door pillar are 5G and 9A.

When I go to the documentation for an 1981 (80/85), 5G = Dark Caramel Metallic. However per the literature located here:

http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/1981-exterior-color-selections.html

5G = Medium Caramel Metallic.

Is there a way to confirm which name is correct to make sure the paint shop has an easier job?

Similarly, how do I know my tape color? The vin decoder on here shows a 'tape' section at the bottom. I do not have such a section. I also have some additional numbers in the lower corner that I have yet to find the meaning of. (6 and 7) Any ideas?

Christopher in Portland Or. 1981 F250 Ranger XLT 4x4 trailer special 351M, and auto C6

delco1946

Re: Attempting a Paint restoration - Qs and tips?

Also if relevant:

Christopher in Portland Or. 1981 F250 Ranger XLT 4x4 trailer special 351M, and auto C6

Gary Lewis

Re: Attempting a Paint restoration - Qs and tips?

Administrator

In reply to this post by delco1946

I would use the numeric paint code instead of the name. That's because Ford wasn't too consistent with their naming. Go to the page at Documentation/Specifications/Exterior Paint Codes.

The 6 and 7 are spring codes: Documentation/Specifications/Spring Codes.

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

delco1946

Re: Attempting a Paint restoration - Qs and tips?

Ok. I may ask for them to mix up a small amount first (which they actually would probably do anyway i'm guessing). Part of me is thinking of adding a bit more metallic flake to to make her razzle dazzle a bit more in the bright sunlight

ha

Also, I thought I once read on here about a spray rust preventative but can't find it now. The shop will be using POR15 on areas they can access but they weren't planning, nor were they aware of a product, to spray into crevices. I am specifically concerned with the areas in-between the outer cab wall and the inner cab wall. Isn't there a product that one could spray with a nozzle (admittedly indiscriminately) until its dripping out the bottom that if/when it hits rust it would react with it while leaving the paint intact?

Christopher in Portland Or. 1981 F250 Ranger XLT 4x4 trailer special 351M, and auto C6

delco1946

Re: Attempting a Paint restoration - Qs and tips?

In reply to this post by Gary Lewis

Gary Lewis wrote

I would use the numeric paint code instead of the name. That's because Ford wasn't too consistent with their naming. Go to the page at Documentation/Specifications/Exterior Paint Codes.

The 6 and 7 are spring codes: Documentation/Specifications/Spring Codes.

To complicate matters I do have a 1981 color chart. Ignoring names and numbers, my paint most nearly resembles 8R - BRT Caramel Iridescent. However, not sure who makes fords charts but mine is R-M auto products. Inmont Corp (not Ford proper)

No matter how i rotate it, it comes up sideways

Christopher in Portland Or. 1981 F250 Ranger XLT 4x4 trailer special 351M, and auto C6

Gary Lewis

Re: Attempting a Paint restoration - Qs and tips?

Administrator

That's kind of hard to read, so here 'tis with a couple of changes.

Anyway, if you use the # from Ford's paint chart, 5757 if I remember correctly, then the supplier ought to be able to mix it to factory specs. However, that won't match what it is now as it will have changed. So if you want what it is now they they'll have to scan it and mix to match.

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

86 1/2 Brutus

Re: Attempting a Paint restoration - Qs and tips?

This is the order i go in.
3M rubbing compound with a buffer with a mild cutting pad, the 3M compound will get just about all of the oxidation off of the truck
In some instances you could wet sand with 1500 grit sand paper, but being this is metallic paint you have to be careful. I have had decent results bring back metallic paint. I would only attempt to wet sand if the 3M rubbing compound fails, but at this point if the 3m cant bring it up, do 1 more time with a minimal cut pad. It should bring up a decent reflection. At this point, you want to polish with a minimal cut pad. Once done polishing go back over everything with swirl and scratch remover and do not buff this off, take it off by hand, then wax the truck

Nick and George
1986 1/2 F150 XLT Lariat 4X2 300 Six - C6 - 3:08 in a 8.8 - Fully Loaded - 8 Foot Box
Owned since new