As you probably know, Randy, there aren't many, if any, aftermarket 2bbl intakes for the 351W. The only aluminum 2bbl manifold I'm aware of is from Ford.
But, be careful with what you find there. Many people were not aware that with a mix of aluminum and steel/iron they needed to run a good anti-freeze. And w/o it the intakes corroded badly where the front and rear coolant passages meet the heads.
Brandon/Bruno2 repaired his intake with JB Weld, but it took a while. So if you are shopping that's the first place I'd look to ensure what I'm buying isn't badly pitted. Otherwise it'll leak coolant.
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow
Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/ZF5/3.55's, D60 w/Ox locker in front & 10.25 Spicer/Trutrac in bac, & EEC-V MAF/SEFI
Ok thanks Gary, I just didn't want to try and reseal the old one by myself as I did 17yrs ago .Due to many aches and pains and my neighbor no longer has his little cherry picker that made lifting that heavy thing off and on easy .
Last resort into finding vacuum leak as all other attempts have failed . It's better but not cured,still dies when moving throttle about a 1/4" Even have to adjust the choke to 2000rpm's or it is in that spot where it starts but die's. Very frustrating and not entirely convinced it's a vacuum problem. I'm going to try your dad's old carb again soon because I now know what I'm doing on the carb now as before I was just guessing at settings .
The dreaded flat spot continues to haunt me coming up on a year in February!
Maybe you can find something [plastic cutting board or scrap wood?] and drill a hole for the air filter hold down bolt to pass through. Just use the wing nut to pull this to the carburetor, to seal it.