Adding Remote Locking

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Adding Remote Locking

Gary Lewis
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Last night at church Steve/FoxFord83 asked me for help on his installation of a remote locking system.  So this is going to be my take on how to do that.  And it may be lengthy......

First, he has a system with these instructions:




But if you look in the upper left their diagrams of relays are ..... awful.  (For anyone that doesn't understand relays you might want to read 12v Planet Relay Guide:)  Instead of their diagram here's an industry standard diagram of a Bosch relay.  In the quiescent state Pin 30 is connected to Pin 87a.  But if you put 12v across 85 & 86 the arm will move from Pin 87a and connect to Pin 87.  So you can kinda see how their relay works by having the White wire connected to the Orange wire via the normally-closed contacts, and then when the relay is activated the White wire connects to the Yellow wire via the normally-open contacts.





Now let's talk about the Ford door lock wiring.  Here it is in its virgin state, although this is from the 1985 EVTM and some of the wires have dots rather than stripes.  But in 1986 Ford eliminated the dots and went to just stripes.



And here's what the EVTM says about how they work:



One of the key things to grasp is that when "at rest" the switches are grounded.  Another is that if you look closely at the switches you can see that the Pk/LG wire is the lock wire, and the Pk/Bk wire is the unlock wire.  In other words, if you hit the Pk/LG wire with 12v it'll lock, and if you hit the Pk/Bk wire with 12v it'll unlock.

So how do we incorporate Steve's module into that wiring to make a remote work?  As below.  In it the White wire is connected to the Orange wire via that normally-closed contact of the Closing relay.  That way the switches still work.  But if you push the remote's Close button the White wire will be connected to the Yellow wire via the normally-open contact of the opening relay which will give the lock motors a shot of 12v and they'll lock.  Ditto for the Opening relay.

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow
Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/ZF5/3.55's, D60 w/Ox locker & 10.25 Sterling/Trutrac, Blue Top & Borgeson, & EEC-V MAF/SEFI

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Re: Adding Remote Locking

85lebaront2
Administrator
Gary and others interested. First, the RKE system used on the later trucks is the same as my 1994 Taurus, the truck system lacks the door keypad, but the connector is on the module. The switches need to be modified as the wiring is different. I have pictures of how to disassemble the switch connectors.

This popped up one day on the Chrysler related site I am a member of: https://www.amazon.com/XYZCTEM-Central-Conversion-Entry-Universal-Vehicles/dp/B016RUV8Z2?ref_=Oct_s9_apbd_orecs_hd_bw_b140Cd_1&pf_rd_r=6RVZ29R6YH522NNBBPHC&pf_rd_p=25428c2e-5869-5578-95c7-4f9b533d1289&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-10&pf_rd_t=BROWSE&pf_rd_i=15730431&tag=allparconvert-20 there are several options, primarily 2dr or 4 dr.
Bill AKA "LOBO" Profile

"Getting old is inevitable, growing up is optional" Darth Vader 1986 F350 460 converted to MAF/SEFI, E4OD 12X3 1/2 rear brakes, traction loc 3:55 gear, 160 amp 3G alternator Wife's 2011 Flex Limited Daily Driver 2009 Flex Limited with factory tow package Project car 1986 Chrysler LeBaron convertible 2.2L Turbo II, modified A413

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Re: Adding Remote Locking

Gary Lewis
Administrator
Bill - Are you saying that Ford's remote keyless entry system is easy to adapt to these trucks?
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow
Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/ZF5/3.55's, D60 w/Ox locker & 10.25 Sterling/Trutrac, Blue Top & Borgeson, & EEC-V MAF/SEFI

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Re: Adding Remote Locking

FoxFord33
In reply to this post by Gary Lewis
This is correct! It works very well! Thanks a bunch for clarification on the relays. When you draw the systems together, it makes sense.

I will add some other details:

The remote control system is so cheap on Amazon. It's like $12 or so. It will also flash lights on 2 wires if you choose.

I accessed my truck's wiring behind the passenger side kick panel. It was relatively simple to get at.

For power to the remote control module I used the same BLK/wht wire for the lock power. So both power-to-NormallyOpen wires are with the red fused wire connected to the BLK/wht. And there is a ground screw right there, so that is pretty easy.
Ford Grand Wagoneer - 1990 Jeep Grand Wagoneer preparing to receive a Ford drivetrain...

A Keeper - 1993 F-150 XLT Super-Cab 5.0 EFI 2WD E4OD 8.8" with 3.55 gear Sold it for my Grand Wagoneer project!

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Re: Adding Remote Locking

Gary Lewis
Administrator
Glad it worked!

What's the name of the system?  Or a link to it on Amazon?

As for hazards behind the kick panel, I think you are looking for Light Green and Light Green/White.

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow
Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/ZF5/3.55's, D60 w/Ox locker & 10.25 Sterling/Trutrac, Blue Top & Borgeson, & EEC-V MAF/SEFI

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Re: Adding Remote Locking

FoxFord33
KKmoon 12V Universal Car Remote... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QJWY44B?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

This is the one I got.
Ford Grand Wagoneer - 1990 Jeep Grand Wagoneer preparing to receive a Ford drivetrain...

A Keeper - 1993 F-150 XLT Super-Cab 5.0 EFI 2WD E4OD 8.8" with 3.55 gear Sold it for my Grand Wagoneer project!

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Re: Adding Remote Locking

Gary Lewis
Administrator
Thanks.  Can't beat that price.  Let us know if the flashing lights thing works.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow
Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/ZF5/3.55's, D60 w/Ox locker & 10.25 Sterling/Trutrac, Blue Top & Borgeson, & EEC-V MAF/SEFI

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Re: Adding Remote Locking

85lebaront2
Administrator
Gary, I think just a different link to the one I shared. Looks like the exact same parts.
Bill AKA "LOBO" Profile

"Getting old is inevitable, growing up is optional" Darth Vader 1986 F350 460 converted to MAF/SEFI, E4OD 12X3 1/2 rear brakes, traction loc 3:55 gear, 160 amp 3G alternator Wife's 2011 Flex Limited Daily Driver 2009 Flex Limited with factory tow package Project car 1986 Chrysler LeBaron convertible 2.2L Turbo II, modified A413

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Re: Adding Remote Locking

Gary Lewis
Administrator
Bill - I'm confused.  Your link takes me to the think on the left, and Steve's takes me to the one on the right.  What am I missing?



Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow
Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/ZF5/3.55's, D60 w/Ox locker & 10.25 Sterling/Trutrac, Blue Top & Borgeson, & EEC-V MAF/SEFI

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Re: Adding Remote Locking

swampedout
Very cool stuff!
My insurance offers discounts for remote locks so this is one upgrade that isnt just more money being spent!!
Sam
1984 F250. 460. C6. 4x4.
 MSD Ignition. Airbag rear suspension
Whole buncha problems
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Re: Adding Remote Locking

85lebaront2
Administrator
In reply to this post by Gary Lewis
Gary, my link was assuming you don't have lock motors or they are bad and need everything. It also shows a 4 door system.
Bill AKA "LOBO" Profile

"Getting old is inevitable, growing up is optional" Darth Vader 1986 F350 460 converted to MAF/SEFI, E4OD 12X3 1/2 rear brakes, traction loc 3:55 gear, 160 amp 3G alternator Wife's 2011 Flex Limited Daily Driver 2009 Flex Limited with factory tow package Project car 1986 Chrysler LeBaron convertible 2.2L Turbo II, modified A413

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Re: Adding Remote Locking

kramttocs
Administrator
In reply to this post by Gary Lewis
Thanks for this Gary/Steve!


Made me break out the Viper 211HV I picked up on ebay awhile back.

Hope it's ok to add all this in one thread despite different brands as it all relates. On that train of thought - would it be worth adding a subsection with a thread for each model (aftermarket or from another vehicle like Bill's) users go to install? May not be that many differences though...

The viper pinout is:



--

All circuits in these trucks are positive, correct? Like horn and dome light.

--

The viper has a switched ignition source that states:

"Connect this wire to an ignition source. This input must show (+) 12V with the key in run position and during cranking. Make sure that this wire cannot be shorted to the chassis at any point. This wire will trigger the system if the ignition is turned on before the unit is disarmed (doors unlocked with the remote). It will also honk the vehicle's horn and flash the parking lights (if connected)."

For the 86 7.5 it looks like connector 325 (hot fuel 'hot in start or run' - page 105 EVTM) is a good location for this. What about other truck years/motors?

Can this wire be connected directly or should it use a relay? I assume the draw is minimal but I don't see anything beyond that description.

---

Dome lights

H1/4 Black/White (from Primary Harness Wire Connection Guide)
"Connect this wire directly to the domelight circuit in the vehicle. The on-board relay will drive circuits up to 30 amps. The polarity of this output is determined by the connection of the input wire H1/3 in the Relay Harness"

So no external relay needed but then in the features section it has:

IGNITION CONTROLLED DOMELIGHT
"If turned on [the feature], the system will turn on the domelight for 30 seconds when the ignition is turned off. The domelight supervision output H1/4 wire must be connected to an optional relay as described in the Primary Harness Wire Connection Guide."

Why does it need an optional relay if it has the on-board one? What am I missing here?


Scott
'Camano' 1986 F250 Supercab XLT Lariat 460/C6
'Chanute' 1980 F350 C&C 400/NP 435 - Gin Pole

But there ain't nothin' wrong with the radio
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Re: Adding Remote Locking

Gary Lewis
Administrator
Scott - You buried those questions pretty well.  Hopefully I found them all:

Thread: Yes, it is great to put info about other brands in this thread.

Sub-section: Jein.  I think we need a webpage for security systems, remote locking, and/or windows.
 That page could have info on all of the different systems we figure out how to use.  Or, we might just give the basics and then let people figure out how to tie their system into the basics.  And by basics I mean:

Door Locks: We've figured out how to interface the system Steve bought.  And maybe it is enough to show how to use the normally-open and normally-closed contacts, along with the central one, or "30" if you will.  However, your system not only says "normally closed" it also says "87A", which is the terminal on a Bosch relay.  So we need to add that to the documentation.

Windows: Some of the security systems allow you to open or close the windows, so at some point we'll have address this.

Security: We will need to figure out what the typical options are in security systems and document how to use each one.  For instance, I think the Ground When Armed output on yours should pull in a relay that takes the tach wire to ground.  There's no a chance that the engine is going to run in that case, regardless of the jumpering someone does.  And we'd also need to figure out what Horn Honk goes to.
 And Switched Ignition Input.  And......

Speaking of Switched Ignition, I think I'd use the red/light green on the right side of the schematic below.  It will be 12v in both Start and Run, and it is the same for all gasoline engines.  That way we don't have to figure out what engine and what fuel system they have.  And, it could be connected to directly.

All circuits are positive?  I'm not sure I understand, but typically the power comes in at the top of a page and ground is at the bottom.

Dome Lights: I suspect, but don't know, that it will work fine w/o a relay.  Set H1/3 up so the relay supplies 12v to the dome lights, and then hook H1/4 to the black/light blue wire for the dome lights, which is probably accessible in the kick panels.

But, note that the Ford door switches are not the typical ones that ground a circuit when the door opens.  Instead they have 12v on one side and the lights on the other, which will be at ground when the doors are shut.  So you need to take that into account in the setup.

Does this make sense?  Did I get them all?

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow
Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/ZF5/3.55's, D60 w/Ox locker & 10.25 Sterling/Trutrac, Blue Top & Borgeson, & EEC-V MAF/SEFI

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Re: Adding Remote Locking

Danny G
Remote start, and locks are on my agenda for sure. I have hand crank windows, there are adapters that let you keep the hand cranks, but also use a switch to run them electrically. It would seem if there is no remote for that you simply would need a transmitter capable of supplying the same inputs just tied into the system.
1986 F-150|Standard Cab|4x2|300Six|C6Transmission w/3.08 rear|Name:TBD
2021 Ranger XLT Super Crew
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Re: Adding Remote Locking

kramttocs
Administrator
In reply to this post by Gary Lewis
Haha I think you got them all
That wire does look like a good choice and is also at C325 (guess there are two start/run wires for certain truck configs there).

Does this sound right for the Horn Honk?

User supplied relay (ground trigger) mounted in engine bay:

85 - H1/12 (-200mA from Viper box)
86 - fused +12v (20amp)
87a - Y/LG from truck horn switch (aka steering wheel)
87 - fuse + 12v (20amp) - jumper from 86
30 - Y/LG to truck horn
Scott
'Camano' 1986 F250 Supercab XLT Lariat 460/C6
'Chanute' 1980 F350 C&C 400/NP 435 - Gin Pole

But there ain't nothin' wrong with the radio
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Re: Adding Remote Locking

kramttocs
Administrator
In reply to this post by Danny G
Remote start would be nice. I know it can be done with carbs but I'd have a hard time trusting it.

Camano came with manual windows but a PO had put one of those kits in. I pulled it out to replace with the factory setup but it did seem to work just fine. The handle covers looked a little out of place even though they were painted to match.

DEI (Viper) 529T or 530T look to be popular window modules that take a - or + trigger from a keyless entry module.
I haven't found yet if they contain a built in relay or if they require an external one.

Edit: Looks like 530T at least doesn't need an external relay AND provides one-touch up and down which would be really nice.

Scott
'Camano' 1986 F250 Supercab XLT Lariat 460/C6
'Chanute' 1980 F350 C&C 400/NP 435 - Gin Pole

But there ain't nothin' wrong with the radio
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Re: Adding Remote Locking

Gary Lewis
Administrator
In reply to this post by kramttocs
kramttocs wrote
Does this sound right for the Horn Honk?

User supplied relay (ground trigger) mounted in engine bay:

85 - H1/12 (-200mA from Viper box)
86 - fused +12v (20amp)
87a - Y/LG from truck horn switch (aka steering wheel)
87 - fuse + 12v (20amp) - jumper from 86
30 - Y/LG to truck horn
Jein.  (You are going to understand German soon.)  There are two scenarios, as shown below.  With speed control, which I assume you have, there is yellow/light green after the relay.  But on the trucks w/o speed control the wire after the horn switch is dark blue.  Further, C305(A/B) is on the steering column and the relay is under the hood.  So why not say you'll tap into the dark blue wire under the hood?  That'll work for both scenarios.

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow
Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/ZF5/3.55's, D60 w/Ox locker & 10.25 Sterling/Trutrac, Blue Top & Borgeson, & EEC-V MAF/SEFI

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Re: Adding Remote Locking

kramttocs
Administrator
Ah! I was trying to figure out what DB stood for - I rationalized it as dB

I did mean to but forgot to add the caveat that the Y/LG was for Cruise trucks so glad you mentioned it.
I would definitely agree with tapping in under the hood. I was thinking the Y/LG was under the hood though (was messing with wiring today)... Just ran out and checked and it looks like both are under the hood but not the same Y/LG in the diagram. This Y/LG is after the DB and connects to the horns (plural). Might be a PO mod?
Scott
'Camano' 1986 F250 Supercab XLT Lariat 460/C6
'Chanute' 1980 F350 C&C 400/NP 435 - Gin Pole

But there ain't nothin' wrong with the radio
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Re: Adding Remote Locking

Gary Lewis
Administrator
Something in the back of my mind says there was a y/lg jumper that connected the two horns.  I think one end had a female 1/4" connector with a male tap, and the other end was just female 1/4".  Put that on the two horns and the DB went on the male connector.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow
Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/ZF5/3.55's, D60 w/Ox locker & 10.25 Sterling/Trutrac, Blue Top & Borgeson, & EEC-V MAF/SEFI

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Re: Adding Remote Locking

kramttocs
Administrator
That sounds like what I saw out there. So one could make a jumper between the DB and Y/LG that they then cut. That way they can revert to stock if wanted.
Scott
'Camano' 1986 F250 Supercab XLT Lariat 460/C6
'Chanute' 1980 F350 C&C 400/NP 435 - Gin Pole

But there ain't nothin' wrong with the radio
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