85 2wd C&C Dump 4x4 Conversion

Give me some time to wade through their applications.

I'll find it, unless you have a power transmission shop to built it for you.

Don't get too hung up on it, unless you really feel like it.  I think it would be wise to get my drivetrain in then I have a good measurement to see what the cross references line up to.  I can have it in in the next couple of days.

I have to be honest, reading the application manual for the driveshafts is mind-numbing for me for some reason and I consider myself to be at least of average intelligence. I'm sure others including my ex might disagree with that though

I had a little time to look to see if I could get my head around it... I can't leave well enough alone

You can tell me if you end up in the same place as I did... E5TZ 4602-Z.  That's my best guess based off the chart.  That shows a length of 59 3/16 which is in the ballpark of my rough measurement of 62"

??? Just get the motor in, Bill!

I'm autistic. Seeing patterns, trends and outliers in charts and diagrams is just the way my brain is wired.

You may have found a drive shaft for an F-350 pickup.
(They have a 133" wheelbase)
You just need to be certain that the shaft can't bottom out at full compression, nor pull all the way out.

I got that part number from page 45 of the Application manual.  Shows it's for a WB of 136"

Which seems to be much more of a unicorn on the used parts market than a front driveshaft

Then I'd assume it's correct.
(as 'correct' as any counter jockey would be)

That's the nice part about S/D putting their info online.
When you know they were the OEM there's a good chance you can trust it.

Looks like it "might" be available from S/D...

but based on the price you showed me of the double cardan assembly, I think I will just take my driveshaft assemblies to the shop and see what he can fabricate once I get a solid measurement.

Give Jeff's Bronco Graveyard a call.
(actually call them)

They seem to have a tremendous working relationship with Spicer.

AND they seem to have an across the board price of $279 for almost every driveshaft. (complete, bolt in, with universals)

If you call them with a part number, and ask them if they can provide it, you might be surprised.

For sure it will be the same shaft you'd get at the dealer. No question about that.
And they're drop shipped pretty much overnight.

Thanks for the advice I will call them.

Rear driveshaft measures 62.5" from where the u-joints seat in the yokes (in other words from the front side of the front u joint to the back side of the back u joint).

Front measures 35.5" from the same points.

Bill did get the motor in!  
Engine in is a great feeling.  


Remember that the driveshaft length given is fully bottomed.
Measurement is C-C on the cross, so subtract one bearing cap diameter from your overall
You would need to be measuring with the shackles disconnected, and the axle on the stops.

Some specific purpose for this truck?

Yeah! Just makes it feel like a truck again.

That make sense on the lengths. I was just trying to do my best to get something by myself from underneath.

Now to the really fun stuff... Electrical

Truck's purpose will be general farm stuff. Hauling firewood, pulling logs, moving round bales, gravel, moving trailers etc.

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Hey Scott! Don't mind Jim and I... We might veer off topic slightly talking about bird dogs etc now and then...

But I am making progress! Drivetrain is in and I'm sorting out my drive shaft situations. In the meantime I can button up the electrical stuff, gauges, motor stuff, brake lines, etc. And don't get me going on the rabbit hole of tires for it (just had to have a dually didn't I?)

If it weren't for tangents, all we'd talk about are trucks

I am a fan of C&C pickups as we have a few of them on the farm and with my 80 being 2wd (so pretty much fair weather/road usage) what you are doing/done is of real interest to me.

With a dump especially, the rear tire width will be of note. We have the Nexen Roadian A/T Pro RA8 on a couple of trucks and like them. My 80 has the same tires all the way around though since it doesn't see a lot of weight and risk of rubbing is low.

Keep up the great work!

Gary is the master of 8-page over-analysis and rabbit holes.
You'll come to understand.  

I'm not certain about what's optimal for farm use.
On street dually tow rigs usually run 215/85-R16 E tires to keep rocks out between them.
But I expect you need more traction and care less about highway noise.

Is your hydraulics PTO or electric?
You might consider updating that 2G, if it is electric and you're going to be relying on it.

Yes, that is the issue finding tires... Width yet tall (I don't want monster truck tires by any means but 31s would be nice). Not a ton of options. Road noise is the least of my concerns.

It is electric over hydraulic. I've kicked around switching to PTO but why make another project when I have something that already works?!

I need to read up on the 3g switch.

Scott, I can't really think of anything too early shattering on the 2wd swap part of it that I haven't mentioned. The rear hangers on the front leafs was really the most tedious part of it that I can think of. You do have to swap out the transmission crossmember which wasn't a perfect plug and play fit but within torch and ream bit tolerances

Can I ask how the drop side crossmember needs cutting?
Is it the straight & narrow of the C&C frame?
Because 460 and T-19 seem the same.
There's no reason any of the mounts shifted position.

It wasn't the cross member itself that needed cut. It was a little bit of the bottom channel on the frame on the driver side so that the cross member could sit flat. Essentially the lips on the channel of the frame are wider on a C&C. This did not allow for the flat spot on the cross member to sit on the frame properly.

I don't think that these differences had anything to do with four-wheel drive and two-wheel drive. I think these differences 100% had to do with the difference in the C&C frame and using a passenger truck cross member

And as far as the reaming out of the holes is concerned I believe that is due to the frame starting to become narrower than a passenger frame somewhere in this vicinity. It didn't take much so the difference wasn't drastic.