81 radius arm bushing replacement

I had radius arm bushings, king pin kit, and axle pivot bushings all replaced on 11/2/2016 and approx. 48000 miles on the truck since work was done. My left side radius arm is now back to making the banging noise as it was before this work was done. I just thought it should last a bit longer than this but maybe not. Anyway after reading the shop manual and watching more than several videos I think I may try this myself as the shop that did this work wants $395 to replace these. After looking at the part number that they used which was a K8295 it appears to not be the correct kit but not sure what the differences may be. When I research this number it says thru 10/80. The K8359 states from 11/80 which seems to be the correct one.

(K8295 Inside Diameter (in):   0.88 Inch Outside Diameter (in):   2.77 Inch)
(K8359 Inside Diameter (in):   0.88 Inch Outside Diameter (in):   1.59 Inch)

Look pretty much the same other than outer diameter. I guess my question is they list a lot of others also with different inside dia and outer dia and they all state they are exact fit for a 81 F100. So what gives will any and all of them work or do I need to get into mine to get measurements. Are the polyurethane bushings that much better or about the same. I notice most of those are just the bushings and no hardware at all. So what do you all use or suggest when replacing these.  My truck has a date of 06/81.

When the bushings were done, did they put on urithane bushings? I am asking because they are pushing them in the heavy truck market and they dont last near as long as the rubber ones do. In my mind, they are too hard.

It is listed as K8295 on the invoice which is rubber from what I can see.

One of my trucks had poly radius bushing and they were still good so I reused them.
When I could not swap the whole suspension from parts truck to mine I had to replace the pivot bushings.
I went with poly on them also.

If you go with poly pivot note you have to reuse to outer metal sleeve and the poly bushing goes into it.
You drill and burn the old rubber out, clean up the metal part with a wire brush lube the poly and slip it in.

If you drop the pivot you should be able to pull the beam & radius arm forward to replace the radius bushings IIRC.
Or you drill out the radius arm bracket rivits do the bushings and nut & bolt the brackets back to the frame.

I don't think the poly bushings give a bad / harsh ride at all I am vary pleased with the ride.
I still have rubber bushings out back.
Dave ----

Well I went ahead and got the moog K8359 since I found a new in the box set for $13.50 and I think this may be what you are referring to when replacing them. Think I may give it a go and see how it works out. Not sure why the shop that did the work back in 2016 put the K8295 on this truck when it specially states the dates but anyway.
https://youtu.be/jvMg3g9r884

Well on 1/23/2021 I tackled this job of replacing these bushings. I took about 40 some odd pictures and documented what I found. I spoke with the shop and the guy who did this work on 1/11/2021 and he never looked under the truck but told me it was out of warranty and he could replace them for $395. So I am defiantly going to see him tomorrow and talk this over. So should I be asking for just what he charged me to do this part of the job or what he wanted to charge me to fix his mess or even thought of talking with a lawyer though I am sure I would spend way more to prove a point but mainly all depends on what or how he handles it tomorrow. Really not sure how a lawyer how would interrupt that writing right above the factory install instructions. Anyway here are a few of the documents I have put together without all the pictures of before and after. Just curious some of your experiences with this type work and what would be a good fair resolution in your opinion. The word document I have included is what I have put together and was thinking about asking for. At the least if he does nothing I will give some free advertising and rating for him online if not more. As you can see from the picture of how the bushings where agganged the two steel washers where the only two in the correct location.

Sal_Preferred_Auto_Repair.docx

The follow up of this is posted on my https://www.facebook.com/eddie.grimes.56/ in great detail if anyone wants to see it.

The depths of ignorance and stupidity that some people are willing to stoop to and then defend will never cease to amaze and confound me.  Really, couldn't he even look at the pictures or did he really think he knew more than the engineers that designed the suspension on Ford trucks.

He sticks to his statement and says if it was installed wrong I would have had problems long before now. All he has to do is look at the evidence it is right there but he chose not to do that and told me they weren't going to do anything which in turn made me mad as hell so I decided to do what I could to put it out there for him. Its funny the originals lasted approx.. 35 years and 340,000 miles his incorrect and incorrectly installed ones lasted 4 years and 40,000 miles. That to me failed in pretty short order in caparison. So I guess I should pay him approx. $400 ever 4 years up to 9 times to equal the originals for a total of $3600 to $4000 because you know it will be going up in price. That seems stupid, crazy, absurd, and ridiculous to me.